Vintage Golf

Voyager EMH

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Now here's a possible bargain.
At first glance it looks like a load of rubbish, but might clean up easily and be a good vintage set + bonus clubs.
Seller wrongly states a MrGregor bag then corrects this in the later blurb.
Matching set of Slazenger Johnny Miller 1, 3, 4 woods and 4-PW irons with pga 2 and 3 irons.
Other woods 5&7 look playable apart from the other rather woebegone wood.
Collection only in Kent is the problem.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203585960323?hash=item2f66ab3983:g:JOMAAOSwf9JhIkbu
 

IanM

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This has got me looking and thinking.

First clubs I owned were Dunlop Blue Flash. Half set, driver and 5 wood and odd number irons, bought in about 1984 from a house in Hindhead following an "Ad" in the "Surrey Advertiser!"

There's a few of them about for very little money. They were they cheap end of the range, but the nostalgia value might be worth a purchase.
 

Voyager EMH

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My dad bought me junior size Dunlop Blue Flash 2&4 woods with 3,5,7,9 irons and putter. Brand new in the early 70s. I had grown out of the cut-down hickories by then.
Around the time my dad struggled to play because of his worsening rheumatoid arthritis, I was growing tall enough to try with his Slazenger Ambassadors that he had bought in 1970. I got down to 5 handicap with those.
I am really enjoying the vintage golf vibe now. The vintage games I have played this year have been very enjoyable. Seems it is not possible for it to be otherwise.
Buying the incredible bargains has been part of the fun. Having @Crow as a purchasing advisor is brilliant. He has "The Knowledge."
 

harpo_72

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I have seen guys getting their persimmons re shafted with graphite apparently true temper stopped making metal shafts .
Is this frowned upon in the vintage competitions ? And how old does everything have to be to qualify?
 
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Interesting thread and goo luck to the enthusiasts.

However, I would no more wish to buy or play with the clubs I had when I started playing in 1970 than I would want to have my Hillman Imp back from the same year or play courses maintained to the standards of those days.

There were, undoubtedly, good clubs around in those days and these were identifiable by their price, but there was also a lot of dross.

But as I said, each to their own.
 

Crow

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I have seen guys getting their persimmons re shafted with graphite apparently true temper stopped making metal shafts .
Is this frowned upon in the vintage competitions ? And how old does everything have to be to qualify?

This question gets asked a lot so excuse me for posting a previous answer:

There's no recognised definition of classic/vintage clubs, I've never come across one anyway.

As a general guide the cut off seems to be late 1980s.
Woods should be wooden.
Irons are more of a grey area, some like to see blades only but many people consider Ping Karsten I, II and III and Eye clubs to be classic which brings cavity backs into the equation.
Putters are similarly guided primarily on date with Anser styles probably as far out as they go but a Zebra putter would be accepted by some.


There are very few organised competitions for vintage clubs, but a general guide would be along the following

-Wooden headed clubs representing the era 1930 to 1990, Steel, Graphite or Hickory shafts allowed (wooden heads include persimmon and laminated)
-Irons of simple blade construction. (but as mentioned above, Ping and similar vintage cavity backs have been around for long enough to qualify by age).
-Putters - vintage. (see my comments above)
-Any golf ball can be used.

Personally I prefer the format to be wooden woods and blades (that goes for putters too, no Asners!), but I wouldn't exclude early cavity backs if someone brought those along, the idea is to encourage interest in vintage golf and to experience basics in club design rather than the high tech clubs of today.

If enough interest was there I'd be happy to organise another GM vintage meet.
 

Crow

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And the question regarding re-shafting, it's rare for a shaft to be in too poor a condition to play unless the clubs have been stored in an outhouse for decades so I've never seen the need to put a graphite shaft in.
And to be honest I can't see the point as it's getting away from the club's original design, there are plenty of wooden woods around that were graphite shafted from new if you want a graphite shaft, I have one such myself.
 

Crow

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Interesting thread and goo luck to the enthusiasts.

However, I would no more wish to buy or play with the clubs I had when I started playing in 1970 than I would want to have my Hillman Imp back from the same year or play courses maintained to the standards of those days.

There were, undoubtedly, good clubs around in those days and these were identifiable by their price, but there was also a lot of dross.

But as I said, each to their own.

In many ways I enjoy playing the dross more than the top of the line clubs, as an example:

 

harpo_72

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And the question regarding re-shafting, it's rare for a shaft to be in too poor a condition to play unless the clubs have been stored in an outhouse for decades so I've never seen the need to put a graphite shaft in.
And to be honest I can't see the point as it's getting away from the club's original design, there are plenty of wooden woods around that were graphite shafted from new if you want a graphite shaft, I have one such myself.
I was looking at the Ping eye woods as I know them, I am at a loss with what is good or bad when it comes to other stuff though.
I have my irons sorted and I have a Wilson 8802 putter which should be suitable.. I think I will keep that 4 wood as it could be like a hybrid … will seek out some Pings
 

Crow

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I was looking at the Ping eye woods as I know them, I am at a loss with what is good or bad when it comes to other stuff though.
I have my irons sorted and I have a Wilson 8802 putter which should be suitable.. I think I will keep that 4 wood as it could be like a hybrid … will seek out some Pings

Ping Eye woods are some of the easiest to play, they were slightly larger than most and were set up to counteract a fade.
The 8802 is a classic flanged blade putter, a perfect choice.
Any queries you have on possible clubs feel free to ask.
What irons do you have?
 

harpo_72

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Ping Eye woods are some of the easiest to play, they were slightly larger than most and were set up to counteract a fade.
The 8802 is a classic flanged blade putter, a perfect choice.
Any queries you have on possible clubs feel free to ask.
What irons do you have?
My irons are a set of Mizuno tp 18s I have had from new, think the pro took advantage of me at the time, but they definitely taught me what a bad shot felt like!
 

Voyager EMH

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I was looking at the Ping eye woods as I know them, I am at a loss with what is good or bad when it comes to other stuff though.
I have my irons sorted and I have a Wilson 8802 putter which should be suitable.. I think I will keep that 4 wood as it could be like a hybrid … will seek out some Pings
Similar to my thoughts earlier this year. I thought, "Ah yes, I reckon I could play with Ping Zing or Eye 2 woods, they were great clubs." But it is not necessarily about who scores the lowest and wins merely by having the best clubs from that era. Its really is about appreciating each others' efforts with whatever clubs you are trying to do it with. So playing with some reasonable condition "dross" earns great respect, if you can still make it work somehow. So although I have some easier to use irons, I seem drawn to my 1960s Dunlop Peter Thomson Mark 5. These were not dross, but the thin soles on the long irons look scary thin. I enjoy it immensely when a shot with those goes well. It requires so much more skill to play with these clubs that the new ones that allow you to just smash it. That is what seems to be the attraction for most - "Its not all about the score."
I no longer have any desire for Ping Zing or Eye 2.
At the Kings Lynn game recently, I got my dad's 1970 Slazenger Ambassador 2-wood out on the first tee and with a steady swing sent the ball down the centre of the fairway about 205 yards to the delight and appreciation of all watching. Loving it!
 

Voyager EMH

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Really interesting article, thanks @Crow for that. Those Mizunos were quite definitely "classic" and I too would be regretting selling, if I had owned any.

Whether they qualify as "vintage" is a matter of debate and opinion as @Crow has clearly stated. Most definitely "classic" though, for all the right reasons.

For me, the 1980s were a period of fast changes and developments towards the modern era. Mizuno were leading the way in this respect.

I will give an example of late 1960s, late 1970s and late 1980s.
These three clubs have the same shaft lengths and very similar lofts.

SDC11293.JPG SDC11294.JPG

SDC11295.JPG

I have not put it to the test yet, but I'm pretty sure I will be hitting the 1989 Mizuno the furthest and the wider sole will certainly make it "easier" to play with. (I hope the #4 is noted)
So I will not be getting the same experience by playing with the Mizunos as the other irons. Still an enjoyable experience, but not the "vintage" experience is my view. Too modern.

But I'm fairly new to this and my opinions might change. I wouldn't want to stop anyone getting enjoyment out of playing with any "older" clubs.

Featured,
Dunlop Peter Thomson Mark 5.
Wilson Walter Hagen Professional.
Mizuno Cimarron.
 
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