Is your car type 2? If so I fully recommend getting a tethered one so your lead can travel with you without having to undo each night
It's worth it
Why would I need 10 kettles ???
You old duffers drink lots of tea.
IEC kettle lead £3-5, new kettle £30+ Same principle changing a lead on a tethered charger
Only problem with this is replacing the leads on a tethered unit is expensive.
I used to sell EV chargers and the cost of a lead alone is a lot cheaper than paying a charger manufacture the call out charge for an engineer to change a cable (common was people over winding then and pulling them lose or running over the plug)
Some done it on their own but of it was am rfid based unit and the settings for reset you’d have to call the engineer anyway.
Compare replacing the lead on a kettle against a whole new kettle, then times it by 10!
Zappi are a great unit and defo one of the better ones, if I recall the cost difference between untether and tethered was about £90 to the installer (cost of a standard over the counter type 2 lead at the time)
But, if you tethered lead becomes damaged and you need a zappi approve contractor to came and change the lead to maintain the warranty of the unit, ensure you have plenty of lubrication on hand for when you receive the invoice because it’s going to hurt.
Would that not be under the warranty if it fail?
Have to admit for me I prefer it by a way
But then non tethered are future proof .. just what suited me and I'd recommend for most
Not covered under warranty as wear and tear component, just like window wipers or brake pads on a new car.
Fair enough, I would have thought as I can't replace it that became part of it .. where as untethered it wouldn't be
It’s understandable, how can they be responsible if you pull in your drive, run the lead over and crush the plug.
I’ve also seen many occasions where people locate them behind their bins and then hit the bins pulling onto the drive which crush the unit and then question why it’s not under warranty.
“ sorry sir but the unit wasn’t designed to withstand being stuck between a 3ton car and a brick pillar “
It’s definitely about finding what’s right for you. I 100% agree on the ease of a tethered unit, I used to hate opening the garage to put the 3pin system away in the morning when it was pouring. In the end I put a timer on that socket and used to leave the charger inside a recycling bin, which is ironic as I headed up the EV charger side of a wholesaler business.
If I can sort one I’m calling dibs! I never got round to fitting one while renovating the house as costs were creeping up (at the time I owned an EV so would have had the grant) while heading up the EV devision for a wholesaler I was between electric and diesel (irony) and have now moved sectors and with the grands stopping any favours available are being utilised by myself. Sorry sir.
Never mind.
Back on the list
Baz, you have any opinion on the Ohme Home Pro? I get one installed at home included in my EV package. But can upgrade to other options for a cost
Will do, thanks mate. No rush, got approx 9 months to sort it before my delivery date is even a thing ?Leave with me sir, I’ll do some digging on specs over the next couple of days but there is really only a few things that need to be key:
* app management, this will allow you to monitor charge rates etc, but also preset charge start/finish times. This works effectively like the old economy 7, preset the charger to start when your tarring goes off peak and set a finish time (6am etc) it will also allow you to shut the charge down when your not home so randoms can’t pull up and charge foc
*rfid(is normally on upgrade models) but will only allow people with fobs to activate it. Ie you and the misses have a fob each. If neither of you are home the unit is dead. However if both sync’d via an app you call allow a neighbour to use is by connecting remotely. This is done pretty easy as most chargers link straight into your home Wi-Fi or via an Ethernet link if over 20m away from router.
* type a rcd build in (this will trip of there is a fault and not trip your dist board)
* earth leakage protection build in (no need for secondary earth protection)
* load balancing (stops tripping of the board is under full load, this is typically around evening times when the kettle is boiling, electric ovens and microwaves are all on, maybe the tumble is going and the immersion if applicable is on full). Most people have the conception that they have a 100am supply because the mainswitch on their board says 100a, but a lot have 63a.
I’ll do some digging bud, email me your options and I’ll take a look