Draw/Fade setting on Drivers

[Paul77]

Hey folks,

I have the Titleist 913 D3 in 9.5 degree. My default shot seems to be a fade or dead straight with it (rare on dead straight). On really lazy days it's a long high push to the right but I know what I've done and correct it quick for the next shot. I have it set to A1 which I believe is the default loft and lie for this club according to the spec sheet. I didn't get a wrench with it but that was why I got it cheaper. I'm interested to play around with the surefit settings one day but before I buy a wrench do you think it makes much of a difference? I see weight sliders, loft adjusters and all sorts on drivers now and I just wonder if it's actually doing anything?

For instance, you set it to Draw bias but maybe on a hole you would quite like to fade it? Is it best to just keep it on A1 and work it as and when it's required? I can hit a fade anytime, the draw just needs a little extra help. I was able to draw the Ping G15 I had no bother, but this one I can't quite manage when I think I'm set up for it. No big loss apart from distance when hitting the fade.

I'm not a big hitter, averaging about 210yds but I just wonder if it's all just marketing blurb.

I think the last time I used my driver on Trackman I was getting a launch angle of 16.4 degrees or something, and I do send the ball quite high. Maybe I'm flipping the club and adding loft. I plan to spend a whole lesson on Driver, but just in case the guy wants me to change the setup on it, is it worth getting the wrench?

Cheers

Paul

 

[swasterix]

I bought my SLDR off eBay without a wrench. Picked the wrench up on eBay for around a tenner. Went on a GC2 and had a mess around until I found the best setting and haven't touched it since.

 

[Whereditgo]

Hey folks,

I have the Titleist 913 D3 in 9.5 degree. My default shot seems to be a fade or dead straight with it (rare on dead straight). On really lazy days it's a long high push to the right but I know what I've done and correct it quick for the next shot. I have it set to A1 which I believe is the default loft and lie for this club according to the spec sheet. I didn't get a wrench with it but that was why I got it cheaper. I'm interested to play around with the surefit settings one day but before I buy a wrench do you think it makes much of a difference? I see weight sliders, loft adjusters and all sorts on drivers now and I just wonder if it's actually doing anything?

For instance, you set it to Draw bias but maybe on a hole you would quite like to fade it? Is it best to just keep it on A1 and work it as and when it's required? I can hit a fade anytime, the draw just needs a little extra help. I was able to draw the Ping G15 I had no bother, but this one I can't quite manage when I think I'm set up for it. No big loss apart from distance when hitting the fade.

I'm not a big hitter, averaging about 210yds but I just wonder if it's all just marketing blurb.

I think the last time I used my driver on Trackman I was getting a launch angle of 16.4 degrees or something, and I do send the ball quite high. Maybe I'm flipping the club and adding loft. I plan to spend a whole lesson on Driver, but just in case the guy wants me to change the setup on it, is it worth getting the wrench?

Cheers

Paul

You know you can't adjust the settings during the round, right?

 

[Paul77]

It's interesting that you bring that particular driver up. It's kind of about that one too. I've also heard the SLDR driver is harsh on mis*****. I have the SLDR S 5 wood and I got to be honest it's the best club I've ever used. It's entered that thought into my head of what the driver would be like, and then I wondered about the effectiveness of the weights sliders. My train of thought then went on to the current Surefit system I have and how effective that could be for me to achieve the same result.

All I want is a smooth swing go to shot. I don't feel comfy with the fade as it's a whole lot of trouble if it goes wrong on my course. The course is set for some one who can draw the ball off the tee. It's just something I'm going over at the min

 

[Paul77]

You know you can't adjust the settings during the round, right?

That's my point. Once it's set you can't change it so you're snookered so why have the setting on the club? Not that I'm constantly wanting to work that ball for each hole. I just want to change my default shape and if I can do that via Surefit I'd be happy. If it's not going to work then is that one that will work this way?

open to suggestions of course.

 

[Oddsocks]

Currently using my d3 913 in A1 and until my driver form comes back consistent I will not tweak it.

I don't see the point in setting it up in anything other than standard if you have 2/3/4/5 different shots depending on the swing. Last season my driver flight and distance was very consistent with the amp with either a dead straight or very very slight draw, when that shape is back I'll get on a trackman

 

[JakeWS]

I have my Cobra set on 10.5 Draw, my natural shot is a fade and I can still hit one when necessary along with straight shots, I just find when I do want to draw the ball I find it a bit easier.

 

[Paul77]

This is why I'm wondering if it's just as good leaving it in A1. I can hit a high or low fade no bother. High fade, I just deliver the clubhead steeper and opposite for the low. I know I can do it. I just dislike the shot (reminds me of my old slicing days). However, whenever I set up for a draw (at the range, and I never do it on the course) I hit it either straight, or I let the clubface open up, adding loft and push it off to the right. That's usually by about 90 balls in and I'm getting sweaty. I suppose I need ot work on my relationship between path and clubface angle.

My next lesson is on the 28th and I've said to the guy I just want to work on driver. I'm halfway there to working out how I've hit it subject to where it's came off the face. I use impact tape at the range on occasion and often deliberately toe it or heel it to see how it reacts. It's dead useful to use.

What I'm really on about here is that if I set the club on D2, 0.75 less loft and max draw setting and swing along a straight path, will it draw? The marketing suggests so however, I can't get my head around it without changing path in to out.

 

[Region3]

What I'm really on about here is that if I set the club on D2, 0.75 less loft and max draw setting and swing along a straight path, will it draw? The marketing suggests so however, I can't get my head around it without changing path in to out.

I could be wrong, but I thought changing the settings on Titleist drivers for draw/fade just made the club sit slightly open or closed. Something you can do yourself at address.

Also - and this is only my opinion - if I had a shot I could rely on (you said you can hit a fade any time) I'd be using it all day long.
At average 210yds I can't imagine there being any situation where you absolutely have to hit a draw with driver.

You will be far better served in the long run by fixing the fault that makes you lose the ball right than trying to develop a draw.

 

[garyinderry]

Without moving weights as well the opening and closing of the face does do something but not a great deal IMO.


Being able to open the face suits the eye of someone who hooks. It will help his tendency to roll the face closed through impact.

 

[Paul77]

On the 9th we have water to the left, and it's a 254y par4. Elevated tee. I pretty much head for the water and it fades back into the front edge of the green about 10 yards short. Wind is always coming in from the right. It's an ideal shot for that hole, but the rest of the course doesn't suit it. My course sits on three teirs. Most of the holes, if anything goes right, you've got a long walk down a hill to get it. Everything slopes to the right so by hitting a draw it's going to stab into the hills and at least have a chance. Hitting a fade leaves you with a longer second shot and mostly up hill about 160 yards and using a 6 iron on an uphill lie isn't my favourite placement lol.

The club at address sits a bit open to my eye on A1 and I tend to lift the base up a little so I feel the clubface is more square to the target line. I know I come over the top on it, hence the fade. I was just open to seeing if I could change it slightly. Maybe the 913 isn't quite what I was after.

 

[Region3]

The club at address sits a bit open to my eye on A1 and I tend to lift the base up a little so I feel the clubface is more square to the target line. I know I come over the top on it, hence the fade. I was just open to seeing if I could change it slightly. Maybe the 913 isn't quite what I was after.

I think on A1 it sits half a degree open, and at a guess each step on the draw/fade scale will move it three quarters of a degree.

 

[walliams8]

I think if your a fader of the ball changing the club won't help you automatically draw it . Just play to your strengths . A lot of pros play with a fade .

 

[Paul77]

I think if your a fader of the ball changing the club won't help you automatically draw it . Just play to your strengths . A lot of pros play with a fade .

I'd say on balance there's as many holes that suit the fade as there is that would suit a draw. On the back nine it suits a drawer of the ball as hitting a natural fade tends to leave me in touble. The front nine is where the lowest of the scoring should be done with the short 8th, 9th, 10th and 11th I can birdie on two of them no bother. If I haven't had a good front nine, I can be sure I'm going to have a bad back nine. My shot shape holds me back on the back nine.

I just thought that if somehow I could change my shape via a club setting I could have a fighting chance. Funny thing is that I can draw the 5 wood no bother around the 1st dogleg landing it up the hill. I just can't do it with the driver and it led me to thinking that it's not set up right. Mental block?

 

[Oddsocks]

I think on A1 it sits half a degree open, and at a guess each step on the draw/fade scale will move it three quarters of a degree.

Hmmmm I need to read up on this

 

[Paul77]

Hmmmm I need to read up on this

Good luck finding any info on it. I'm at a loss. I guess they think the chart tells all.

 

[garyinderry]

As you add loft it will close, take loft off it will open.


I have a 910 and Mizuno jpx 850 and it is like night and day how much effect changing the loft has on the ball flight. Mizuno wins hands down.

 

[Paul77]

As you add loft it will close, take loft off it will open.


I have a 910 and Mizuno jpx 850 and it is like night and day how much effect changing the loft has on the ball flight. Mizuno wins hands down.

That first part takes some reading. I thought adding loft would open the face? and decreasing would close it. I'm awfully confused lol.

My tutor uses the JPX 850 and pretty much drives very well with little or no effort. I like that idea of moving the weight forward much like the SLDR S I have. The weight is right in front of the club.

 

[walliams8]

I'd say on balance there's as many holes that suit the fade as there is that would suit a draw. On the back nine it suits a drawer of the ball as hitting a natural fade tends to leave me in touble. The front nine is where the lowest of the scoring should be done with the short 8th, 9th, 10th and 11th I can birdie on two of them no bother. If I haven't had a good front nine, I can be sure I'm going to have a bad back nine. My shot shape holds me back on the back nine.

I just thought that if somehow I could change my shape via a club setting I could have a fighting chance. Funny thing is that I can draw the 5 wood no bother around the 1st dogleg landing it up the hill. I just can't do it with the driver and it led me to thinking that it's not set up right. Mental block?

I know scratch golfers that still struggle to draw/ fade the ball on demand . Kaymer tried to learn to hit a natural draw instead of a natural fade and completley lost his game , if you hit a fade just learn to use it on these holes , it'll be better in the long run instead of trying to shape the ball on different holes . Depends on your skill level I guess , but getting the ball going in the right direction is tough enough for anyone let alone intentionally shaping it to that position .

 

[garyinderry]

That first part takes some reading. I thought adding loft would open the face? and decreasing would close it. I'm awfully confused lol.
.

Its the opposite to what you would think.