Draw/Fade setting on Drivers

I know scratch golfers that still struggle to draw/ fade the ball on demand . Kaymer tried to learn to hit a natural draw instead of a natural fade and completley lost his game , if you hit a fade just learn to use it on these holes , it'll be better in the long run instead of trying to shape the ball on different holes . Depends on your skill level I guess , but getting the ball going in the right direction is tough enough for anyone let alone intentionally shaping it to that position .

I'll likely continue on the course with the defacto standard fade for safety. The more I do it, the more comfy it'll feel. No harm in getting a wrench and playing about with it up at the range for kicks and giggles I guess. Will help with resale if I ever decide to punt it too.

I might come out my next lesson with a totally different mindset, who knows. It happened with my irons and Im hitting those very well now. I taught myself how to hit driver.
 
That first part takes some reading. I thought adding loft would open the face? and decreasing would close it. I'm awfully confused lol.

It's worse than you think.

They alter the loft by opening/closing the face. Close the face a bit and you open it at impact to square it up. You opening the face to square it is what adds the loft.
Conversely, to reduce loft they make the face sit more open. You close it at impact (or address) which reduces the loft.

If that's not bad enough, to alter the head for fade/draw they alter the lie angle!
 
It's interesting that you bring that particular driver up. It's kind of about that one too. I've also heard the SLDR driver is harsh on mis*****. I have the SLDR S 5 wood and I got to be honest it's the best club I've ever used. It's entered that thought into my head of what the driver would be like, and then I wondered about the effectiveness of the weights sliders. My train of thought then went on to the current Surefit system I have and how effective that could be for me to achieve the same result.

All I want is a smooth swing go to shot. I don't feel comfy with the fade as it's a whole lot of trouble if it goes wrong on my course. The course is set for some one who can draw the ball off the tee. It's just something I'm going over at the min :)

The loft adjustment is the thing which gave the most noticeable difference to my stats. De-lofting the club opens the face, lofting closes the face. However this made a negligible difference to my shot shape, the only noticeable difference being the launch angle, and as a result of that distance. Additionally I found that moving the slider also made a negligible difference to the shot shape.

at the end of the day, whether the face is closed or open. Or whether the slider is set to fade or draw, a dodgy swing can still result in a slice, hook, draw or fade.

most importantly for me the loft setting must match the characteristics of your swing. Hit up, loft down. Hit down, loft up.

With all of this said, you're much better off investing some time with a pro on improving your swing. Rather than relying on your driver to do the work
 
swasterix;1329795 With all of this said said:
That's why I'm feeling around just now. My lesson is on the 28th where I'm specifically looking at driver. I hope all will come true on that day. The place I get my lessons is a Titleist fitting centre too so maybe we can work something out. No doubt they'll want me trying the 915 and say they can't fit for the 913 anymore.
 
That's why I'm feeling around just now. My lesson is on the 28th where I'm specifically looking at driver. I hope all will come true on that day. The place I get my lessons is a Titleist fitting centre too so maybe we can work something out. No doubt they'll want me trying the 915 and say they can't fit for the 913 anymore.
I was fitted for my 915 at Kings Acre, once the Pro was content with the way I hit the ball he fitted me to the correct shaft, once we were happy with the shaft we then played with the loft setting, we settled on B2 as that gave me the best distance, spin rates and accuracy, we used Trackman and his knowledge,
So in essence for me it was well worth getting it fitted but be aware you might not have the correct shaft etc, good luck,
From my Game Golf Stats I have improved an average of 13 yds on my 913 and improved my accuracy to over 66% from 55%.
 
I was fitted for my 915 at Kings Acre, once the Pro was content with the way I hit the ball he fitted me to the correct shaft, once we were happy with the shaft we then played with the loft setting, we settled on B2 as that gave me the best distance, spin rates and accuracy, we used Trackman and his knowledge,
So in essence for me it was well worth getting it fitted but be aware you might not have the correct shaft etc, good luck,
From my Game Golf Stats I have improved an average of 13 yds on my 913 and improved my accuracy to over 66% from 55%.

It's all rather new to me and I am feeling a bit out of the loop with all this fitting stuff. It was only pros that got fitted when I stopped playing years ago. Mere mortals had to buy the biggest headed driver off the highest tee and hope for the best lol. Now it's all number crunching shaft options and weights. I am getting the hang of it but slowly.

I'll ask the guys if they can advise on my driver or whether fitting would be suitable.
 
It's all rather new to me and I am feeling a bit out of the loop with all this fitting stuff. It was only pros that got fitted when I stopped playing years ago. Mere mortals had to buy the biggest headed driver off the highest tee and hope for the best lol. Now it's all number crunching shaft options and weights. I am getting the hang of it but slowly.

I'll ask the guys if they can advise on my driver or whether fitting would be suitable.
Drinking on a Saturday night was my problem, otherwise the fitting would never have happened. :cheers: :whistle:
 
The guy up at the range said that the 915 was a far superior driver to mine (he would say that) and that it's about £300. Fitting is done on Trackman but the £40 you pay gets taken off the price of the driver if you buy it. If you don't buy it you just pay the £40 fitting time. I understand there's 4 shaft options and mine is the Phenom RIP stiff. I could well be using the wrong setup, I'll never know until I go get fitted. I guess going for it when the least I'll have to pay is £40 is worth a shout. Maybe I dunno.

When did we get to the point where this was the only way to progress at golf? My mate was offered fitting on buying G30's last night at AG, the guy can't swing a banjo and hit a cow's ar$e
 
The guy up at the range said that the 915 was a far superior driver to mine (he would say that) and that it's about £300. Fitting is done on Trackman but the £40 you pay gets taken off the price of the driver if you buy it. If you don't buy it you just pay the £40 fitting time. I understand there's 4 shaft options and mine is the Phenom RIP stiff. I could well be using the wrong setup, I'll never know until I go get fitted. I guess going for it when the least I'll have to pay is £40 is worth a shout. Maybe I dunno.

When did we get to the point where this was the only way to progress at golf? My mate was offered fitting on buying G30's last night at AG, the guy can't swing a banjo and hit a cow's ar$e
Without going in to detail, if I hadn't of got the 915 and fitting, I'd still be using my 913 and I wouldn't be looking to change it.
 
Without going in to detail, if I hadn't of got the 915 and fitting, I'd still be using my 913 and I wouldn't be looking to change it.

From that I can take that you got better as a result of playing more thus getting used to the gear, shots and other attributes. This is where I'm sitting it. The driver works for many a person very well. I need to change to get the best out of it.
 
From that I can take that you got better as a result of playing more thus getting used to the gear, shots and other attributes. This is where I'm sitting it. The driver works for many a person very well. I need to change to get the best out of it.
I was very happy with the 913 and love the 915 but i wasn't actually looking for a new Driver, between the 2 the 915 imo is better, and ignorance can be bliss, what you've never had you never miss!
 
The last Titleist driver I had was the 983K in stiff too. Largely different from the 913, but funnily I hit them the same. I just need to sort out my path into the ball and I'm sure lessons will help with that muscle memory of year going up to the driving range with a driver and trying to melt balls. It's going to be a longer road to travel unlike the quick fix I had with my irons. Love hitting my irons now. I quiver when the driver needs to be used. It's just such a boring non feedback club.
 
Boring non feed back club?


This I cannot agree with. You can tell instantly through feel where you have caught it. The club screams at you when you get it wrong.

The shock through your hands and a terrible sound.
 
I take your points and yes in those situations you do get that. For instance when two drives feel the same at impact, and one goes straight and the other goes high right, I don't tend to get much feedback from that. I guess high spin off a lofted and open clubface wouldn't. My fault for doing it. It was a silly thing to put in, not really what I meant.
 
Guy up the range sold me a wrench for a tenner. Cheaper than eBay. He did also confirm what a lot of folk have said on here already. It's all about how you deliver the club head to the ball. He seemed to think the settings shift had minimal impact.
 
Drawing and fading is all down to 'D' plane. No matter how much you fiddle around with driver settings you will always be able to override them with an inconsistent swing path and/or clubface alignment.

IMO you need to understand technically what creates draws and fades if you want to alter your shot shape.
 
I understand the theory of it. Face open to path but closed to target etc etc. it's the application that goes a bit askew lol
 
IMO you need to understand technically what creates draws and fades if you want to alter your shot shape.


You're absolutely right.

However, having a driver that helps you close the club relative to the path can be a good thing. If you, for example, get your swing path from out-to-in to in-to-out but still deliver the club head too open (relative to the path), you'll either hit a push or a push-fade/slice.

So having a clubface that is either slightly closed to begin with or, through weighting near the heel, helps you close the club in your swing can make your life a lot easier.
 
When I went to the Titleist demo day, they recommended getting fitted, and then keeping that setting unless there was an exceptional reason to move it. If I was the OP I'd stick with hitting a fade as a stock shot and learning to draw it in the current setting and leaving it on the optimum set up
 
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