Yardage gap, what to do?

But surely the need for multiple wedges has come about because manufacturers are calling a 6i an 8i, hence all the numbers are bumped up, no one carries a 3i anymore (because it is a 1i), and there is a massive gap at the bottom of the set for more wedges, the first two of which are actually an 8 and 9i.

It's been said before, dump the numbers on the sole, and put the lofts on.

It's also been said before, greedy manufacturers selling us clubs we can't hit at the top end, claiming the middle irons hit longer than before due to technology (paff), and then making even more money selling us gap wedges which should have been in the set to start with.

It is odd that a set of irons used to be 3i to sw, and is now often 4i to PW, so two clubs less, but for a similar price. Specialist wedges and utilities seem to cost more than the missing clubs too.

That said, yes, I carry 3 wedges. Used to have 4, but found it all too confusing.

No need for half shots anyway, just play whatever club leaves 100 yards in. Why leave 80 yards if there is a gap in your bag, and half shots are difficult.
 
To be honest with a wedge I much prefer a 1/2 or 3/4 to a full, hence anywhere from 80 yards in I prefer my 52 to 56.

However I do still want the option of grapping a sw/lw and throwing it up in the air and stopping quick. Especially when you don't have much green to play with. I know maybe being a high handicapper I shouldn't worry about such shots and just let the ball roll past the whole and try and make the put back, but I find trying to pull off a hard shot is what I enjoy most about this game.
 
Good question, recently Ive noticed my SW only goes 95 yards with a good swing (any more and it usually doesnt go straight or well hit), my previous went 100 bang on (im still not convinced whether it is me or the club) so I have found myself using my pw with a 1/2 and 3/4 swing a little more and am starting to get to grips with hitting the ball and getting a decent bit of stop on it whereas before it used to take a couple of bounces and a little roll.
 
No offence taken Bobmac.
I go through phases of shanking half shots, so I try to avoid it where possible (I currently have it beaten again, but for how long?).
I also don't really like hitting full shots with my 54 or 58, as the results can be a bit variable, both in terms of contact (can get a bit fat), and also spin (can get a bit stupid). Both these clubs are fine from about 30 yards, for pitching, lobbing, flop shotting, etc.
In general, I like to leave a full pw into the green. From experience, for me, this is the safest option.
 
Yes they can. Some more than others.
BUT dont try it yourself.
If you want them changed, contact the manufacturer and get their advice or better still, get them to do it.
Let me guess, you want them strengthened? :)
 
I'm with murph. I can play the most sublime pitches with my 52 and 58 (or 52, 56 60 depending on what combination I'm carrying) or I can stick it 45 degrees right. Both swings look and feel the same. Its a bit like Russian roulette not knowing what shot is coming next. Will it be airborne and straight or low and right.

I did a 30 minute session yesterday afternoon with just the 58 trying to hit about 40 yards and was getting on quite well. We'll see at Leatherhead on Saturday whether I'm cured
 
Bit like Murph, I hit full shots better. The "J Arthurs" only appear in my game when I don't play a full shot.
I carry 3 wedges 48*, 53*, 58*. Probably 4 in the summer 48*, 53*, 56*, 60* and before anyone says it, I know that the gaps aren't equal but I do have a 52* which isn't ant difference in length to the 53* (different make)
I have put a bit of practice in on my short game recently and it is starting to pay dividends, still some way to go though
 
slightly off-track, but only slightly,

can all irons be bent (ie both forged and cast) or is it wiser not to do so?

Yes, both can be bent but the forged is far easier and you will invariably find that if you ask a Pro to bend a cast club they will warn you that if it breaks it is down to you.

To the OP. if I was you I would get my clubs lofted and lied and get the lofts set to a reasonable gap. As already mentioned yr PW seems very strong.

There seems to be a lot of love for 4 wedges a la Mickelson but remember the type of courses/shots he plays. a lot of the time on the US type courses you can throw darts and hence the absolute distance control is more beneficial. Also remember how good these guys are in the first place. IMHO Most club players have not got the swing/yardage control on half shots that are going to make the extra club worthwhile.

What I would recommend to all of you is to make sure that the wedges that you do have are set up properly for how and where you play and consider having a custom grind on the sole.

To all you guys who are hitting s***ks are they true s***ks or are you getting the toe of the club digging in and hitting it right because of that?

Once you are happy with your wedge set up the only way to get yr distance control sorted whether you carry 2,3 or 4 wedges is lots of practice.
 
Any one who saw me play at Goswick will know I can hit the real deal quite easily, from any lie. I am wearing the shank away on my 58, I hit it so often.
 
I'm with murph. I can play the most sublime pitches with my 52 and 58 (or 52, 56 60 depending on what combination I'm carrying) or I can stick it 45 degrees right. Both swings look and feel the same. Its a bit like Russian roulette not knowing what shot is coming next. Will it be airborne and straight or low and right.

This made me smile. In last weekends comp, front nine 20pts with a blob, back nine 8pts with 5 blobs all blobs originated from good drives then the dreded shank. The russian roulette comment is so true.
 
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