richart
Major Champion
Best way to hit 5 iron well is to put a 4 iron in your bag. That will then be the club you struggle with.
Why oh why am i struggling with my 5 iron
- Thread starter Hallsy
- Start date
One Planer
Global Moderator
garyinderry
Ryder Cup Winner
Watch it you. Have you hit a proper fade yet? :ears:
One Planer
Global Moderator
garyinderry
Ryder Cup Winner
I have thanks for asking. I bought one of these. Tried it out today. Goes like stink.
#linksdream
#linksdream
One Planer
Global Moderator
I have thanks for asking. I bought one of these. Tried it out today. Goes like stink.
View attachment 23750
What kind of mutant nonsense is that
What kind of mutant nonsense is that
It's a cheating stick, his bag by the sounds of it is full of them 😜
D
Deleted member 15344
Guest
I have thanks for asking. I bought one of these. Tried it out today. Goes like stink.
View attachment 23750
Yep great clubs - have them in the 2,3 and 4
garyinderry
Ryder Cup Winner
I spotted a 7 jpx fli hi on ebay with an x stiff kbs shaft. I thought to myself, I have to try that. Thought maybe it will replace my 6 iron. Turned out to be a straight like for like iron replacement when I tested it at the range.
It is so easy to hit I was on ebay then searching for a 6 head. Very hard to come by. Even more so in a stiff shaft. A women's club turned up but collection only. Won the auction, got the guy to chop the head off and pop it in an envelope. Just had it re-shafted today.
Absolutely delighted with the set up.
Long iron is an 8. :rofl:
The 3 iron is for the links when I will drop my gap wedge. Jobs a Gooden.
Matty6
Challenge Tour Pro
I’ve got a 5 hybrid (Titleist 816) on loan from my pro and boy its an awesome club! Goes a mile, lovely flight and super easy to hit.
David Lake
Newbie
Have your clubheads measured for both loft and lie angle by a professional club builder to ensure proper specs. If they are okay and you still have a problem with your #5 iron I would suggest making the lie angle more upright - approximately the same as your #6 iron.
jim8flog
Journeyman Pro
It depends on the manufacturer. It is a MD Seve their gapping is 18 (3), 21 (4) 24 (5)
Taylormade Rescue M2 their gapping is 19 (3), 22 (4), 25(5)
Orikoru
Tour Winner
Not necessarily. The 5 iron in my Callaway Warbird set is 23 degrees.
you 5 iron is stronger than my 4 iron then.
Traditions lofts are;
1iron 16
2 iron 18
3 iron 21
4 iron 24
5 iron 27
6 iron 30
7 iron 34
8 iron 38
9 iron 43
PW 47 , but not so long ago a Pw was 50
Orikoru
Tour Winner
Had mine over a year now but initially I never knew what the lofts were, I emailed Callaway a few months ago to find out.
5 = 23
6 = 26
7 = 30
8 = 34.5
9 = 39
P = 44
S = 54
Yes they do appear to be very strong compared to most sets of irons I see. Possibly why I also struggle with my 5 iron. Long term goals (next year maybe), I might be looking to get a set Mizuno JPX's. The lofts are a lot softer on them I think.
most manufactures have strengthened the lofts over the last few years even the players clubs are a bit stronger. PW seems to be the favorite to start with. i think i saw a set recently where the PW was 42 deg, but can't remember who's though.
was a post on here recently about someone saying they were hitting their 4 iron well and wanted a 3 iron, so got a 21 deg flihi type only to find the 4 iron was the same loft, so already had a 3 iron:rofl:
Orikoru
Tour Winner
Haha - yeah, the main reason I needed to find out the lofts were because I wanted to buy a gap wedge, but obviously had to make sure the gap was somewhere in between the PW and SW. If I hadn't have checked I probably would have got a 52 which would have been a bit close to the SW loft. Ended up buying a 50 because if I do get Mizunos and the lofts are a tad softer, the 50 should still fit in ok.
first decent set of irons i got when i started back in 2006 were 3-SW now most sets don't even have a 3 iron and only go up to PW
Orikoru
Tour Winner
My starter set that I got over a decade ago (Slazenger set from JJB sports or something) was D, 3W, 5W, 3-SW. Two years ago my mate started playing and nowadays the typical starter set that he got (his is Dunlop) has D, 3W, a hybrid and 4-SW I think. As you say, I never see iron sets with a 3 in them. It's either 4-PW or 5-SW.
I must admit I didn't miss the 3 iron at all when I got the new irons. :lol:
David Lake
Newbie
Up until 2010 there was a gentleman's agreement throughout the golf industry as to loft/lie angles in relation to the numbered irons. This changed when TaylorMade began strengthening the loft angles on their irons with the result being that today there is no standardization in the golf industry as to loft angles which means that one brand's #7 iron might be the equivalent to another brand's #6 iron. This was pure marketing hype and, in my opinion, a deception to consumers as it was done in order to give the illusion that a particular brand's golf clubs produce increased distance. You have heard golfers say it a thousand times: "I can hit this #8 iron one club farther then my old #8 iron". The fact is that they can't. What they can do is hit an #8 iron with a 35º loft angle farther than an #8 iron with a 39º loft angle.
This created another serious problem for the customer because prior to 2010 the standard was a 4º loft angle progression between all irons within a set (#3 iron through LW) which ensured an exact yardage gap between clubs. Today this is not the case. The #3 iron has been deleted by most companies because it is, in essence, a current #4 iron, and this basic re-numbering of irons has led to the elimination of a crucial middle iron. As an example, the current loft angle progression of the TaylorMade M2s is:
Iron #
4 19.0º
5 21.5º
6 25.0º
7 28.5º
8 33.0º
9 38.0º
PW 43.5º
GW 49.0º
SW 54.0º
LW 59.0º
With loft angle progressions of:
4 to 5 2.5º
5 to 6 3.5º
6 to 7 3.5º
7 to 8 4.5º
8 to 9 5.0º
9 to PW 5.5º
PW to GW 5.5º
GW to SW 5.0º
SW to LW 5.0º
As can be seen, by strengthening the loft angle of the long and middle irons the company has effectively eliminated a middle iron resulting in an extreme variance in loft angle progression and a decided yardage gap variance through a set.
Here are the pre-2010 industry standard loft angles and loft angle progressions:
Iron #
3 20.0º
4 24.0º
5 28.0º
6 32.0º
7 36.0º
8 40.0º
9 44.0º
PW 48.0º
GW 52.0º
SW 56.0º
LW 60.0º
3 to 4 4.0º
4 to 5 4.0º
5 to 6 4.0º
6 to 7 4.0º
7 to 8 4.0º
8 to 9 4.0º
9 to PW 4.0º
PW to GW 4.0º
GW to SW 4.0º
SW to LW 4.0º
I have used TaylorMade as an example but if you take an average of all of the brands on the market today you will find basically the same thing.
David Lake
One Iron Golf
This created another serious problem for the customer because prior to 2010 the standard was a 4º loft angle progression between all irons within a set (#3 iron through LW) which ensured an exact yardage gap between clubs. Today this is not the case. The #3 iron has been deleted by most companies because it is, in essence, a current #4 iron, and this basic re-numbering of irons has led to the elimination of a crucial middle iron. As an example, the current loft angle progression of the TaylorMade M2s is:
Iron #
4 19.0º
5 21.5º
6 25.0º
7 28.5º
8 33.0º
9 38.0º
PW 43.5º
GW 49.0º
SW 54.0º
LW 59.0º
With loft angle progressions of:
4 to 5 2.5º
5 to 6 3.5º
6 to 7 3.5º
7 to 8 4.5º
8 to 9 5.0º
9 to PW 5.5º
PW to GW 5.5º
GW to SW 5.0º
SW to LW 5.0º
As can be seen, by strengthening the loft angle of the long and middle irons the company has effectively eliminated a middle iron resulting in an extreme variance in loft angle progression and a decided yardage gap variance through a set.
Here are the pre-2010 industry standard loft angles and loft angle progressions:
Iron #
3 20.0º
4 24.0º
5 28.0º
6 32.0º
7 36.0º
8 40.0º
9 44.0º
PW 48.0º
GW 52.0º
SW 56.0º
LW 60.0º
3 to 4 4.0º
4 to 5 4.0º
5 to 6 4.0º
6 to 7 4.0º
7 to 8 4.0º
8 to 9 4.0º
9 to PW 4.0º
PW to GW 4.0º
GW to SW 4.0º
SW to LW 4.0º
I have used TaylorMade as an example but if you take an average of all of the brands on the market today you will find basically the same thing.
David Lake
One Iron Golf
