Draw Biased Drivers

Billysboots

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Go to the range, aim right, weaken the grip and try and square up the clubface at impact

Our 1st hole has OOB right. I used to aim left, and lost count of the number of block/fades which disappeared.

I now do exactly what you describe. I’ve weakened my grip, aim towards the OOB, and work really hard on my swing path and release. Combined with the new driver I’m now hitting a reasonably well controlled draw.
 

bobmac

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Our 1st hole has OOB right. I used to aim left, and lost count of the number of block/fades which disappeared.

I now do exactly what you describe. I’ve weakened my grip, aim towards the OOB, and work really hard on my swing path and release. Combined with the new driver I’m now hitting a reasonably well controlled draw.

The proper fix for the slice is a neutral grip and a good swing path.
The grip is the easy fix, the swing path is basically not achievable for the golfer who doesn't practice much.
So the only alternative is to aim everything right which brings the swing path on line.
Easy to do on a big wide range but not so easy on the course when there is danger right
 

Orikoru

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Our 1st hole has OOB right. I used to aim left, and lost count of the number of block/fades which disappeared.

I now do exactly what you describe. I’ve weakened my grip, aim towards the OOB, and work really hard on my swing path and release. Combined with the new driver I’m now hitting a reasonably well controlled draw.
Another mistake I realised I was making early this year was my ball position had crept too far forward. I had it almost inline with my big toe on the left foot, thinking I was hitting up on the ball, but in fact it was too late in the arc so the club head was moving to the left by the time it got there, meaning I was cutting across the ball and slicing it (or if I managed to close the club face, pulling it well left). Moved the ball position back inside of my left heel and was back to hitting smaller fades.
 

Newtonuti

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But, will you need it if your lessons fix your slice?
You see, this is the main thing that has me thinking right now.

I've had numerous lessons over the years and nothing fixed my slice. That'll say more about me as a student than the teachers though!

You could also try the Max with the weight in the heel. That way, if you do manage to sort your slice, you can put the weight back to middle and hey presto, new driver! 😉
Brilliant idea! Might try both heads, and if I can get the Max to reduce my big cut to a workable fade, I'll maybe plump for that instead.

Cheers for the replies folks!
 

HPIMG

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You see, this is the main thing that has me thinking right now.


Brilliant idea! Might try both heads, and if I can get the Max to reduce my big cut to a workable fade, I'll maybe plump for that instead.

Cheers for the replies folks!
I have the max I am not convinced moving the weight does anything. I would either get lessons fix the problem if that’s not a option get the SFT
 
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Orikoru

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I have the max I am not convinced moving the does anything. I would either get lessons fix the problem if that’s not a option get the SFT
My mate has the G425 SFT. He was still slicing that sometimes, so he replaced the 23g heel weight with a 30g weight that he bought online. I was laughing at him at first, but to my shock it actually worked and he hits it much straighter now!
 

HPIMG

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My mate has the G425 SFT. He was still slicing that sometimes, so he replaced the 23g heel weight with a 30g weight that he bought online. I was laughing at him at first, but to my shock it actually worked and he hits it much straighter now!
I am honestly amazed people can still slice a SFT my slice can be quite bad and for the life of me I could not hit anything but a straight shot with the SFT . On my max g425 I always keep the weight on draw setting but have had a play about with them all and if I go to practice ground and work on close ing the face I’ll get a baby draw no matter what position the weights in. I really don’t see a difference personally
 

Jason.H

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My grip couldn't be much stronger and I can still slice it.
Try Harringtons method , hit balls on a slope where they are above your feet. You’ll soon be missing to the left. 😂 Our range mats you can lift and stick the ball tray under to raise it a couple of inches
 

Newtonuti

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As an update to this, tried both the G430 SFT and Max models, as well as the Paradym X, and after adding in a bit of extra shoulder turn in my back swing and helping the downswing path, none could beat my current Sim Max 2! So after chatting to my coach, he recommended just sticking with what I have.
 

KenL

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As an update to this, tried both the G430 SFT and Max models, as well as the Paradym X, and after adding in a bit of extra shoulder turn in my back swing and helping the downswing path, none could beat my current Sim Max 2! So after chatting to my coach, he recommended just sticking with what I have.
No reason to expect them to beat a good driver.
I would say that the draw biased models are shorter than most normal or low spin drivers.
 

Newtonuti

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No reason to expect them to beat a good driver.
I would say that the draw biased models are shorter than most normal or low spin drivers.
The SFT was definitely shorter, mainly due to fairly high spin. None of the three drivers I tried went further then the SIM 2, or even seemed more consistent.

Proof that a simple 15 minute tweak to my swing, was better then a new £500 driver!
 
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