Old Man Yardages

Did you keep the carry numbers too?

I'm not sure there's much benefit in total distance, as the roll will vary tremendously depending on the firmness of the ground, if it lands on a downslope etc. Carry distance is the important one for me, because on the course I'm thinking about where I want to land it.
I've always just thought in total distances and I've been doing that too long to change now. In winter I just go up a club and in a heatwave I go down a club. It's still just as simple without thinking in carry distances. I mostly do my yardages to the back of the greens, so in my mind total yardage works for that as it means I shouldn't roll through the back.
Edit: it's the same with lay-ups etc you just want to know it's not going to reach the hazard don't you? So that would be total.
 
I've always just thought in total distances and I've been doing that too long to change now. In winter I just go up a club and in a heatwave I go down a club. It's still just as simple without thinking in carry distances. I mostly do my yardages to the back of the greens, so in my mind total yardage works for that as it means I shouldn't roll through the back.
Edit: it's the same with lay-ups etc you just want to know it's not going to reach the hazard don't you? So that would be total.

Carry distance in the OP's case, married with decent angle shows he will struggle to hold a green. A common issue with game improvement clubs - they often go further, but the flight means they run and run, which is no use for approach shots.

My fittings over last year got me to an average 45 deg decent angle, at the distances required for each club.
 
Carry distance in the OP's case, married with decent angle shows he will struggle to hold a green. A common issue with game improvement clubs - they often go further, but the flight means they run and run, which is no use for approach shots.

My fittings over last year got me to an average 45 deg decent angle, at the distances required for each club.
Titleist have the 3 D’s in their iron fitting, Distance, Dispersion and Drop (angle). You need an ideal blend of all 3.
 
Titleist have the 3 D’s in their iron fitting, Distance, Dispersion and Drop (angle). You need an ideal blend of all 3.

Pedant mode on : Decent : Pedant mode off

I was fitted to that principle and as much as I would love to hit a 7 iron 200 yards, that just doesn't tally with the other two D's, so I now have a set of irons with accurate repeatable carry, which travel enough for my game allowing me to hit greens and stay on them.
 
Pedant mode on : Decent : Pedant mode off

I was fitted to that principle and as much as I would love to hit a 7 iron 200 yards, that just doesn't tally with the other two D's, so I now have a set of irons with accurate repeatable carry, which travel enough for my game allowing me to hit greens and stay on them.
Correcting pedant mode on: Descent : Correcting Pedant mode off

You are right though, I was struggling to remember what the 3rd D was.
 
How does Trackman work out the average? Is it just the total distance divided by the number of shots (mean) or the more accurate way of calculating it by using the median and looking at the distance that is hit most often? There could be quite a big difference between the two numbers.
Just to be a pedant, neither method is intrinsic more accurate. Which is a reflection of how something is measured not the method of determining central tendancy.
Though I would certainly agree that the median is a more useful number than the mean.
 
You can all look forward to this post being updated over the coming weeks whilst I search for the "missing link" i.e. the club(s) that will effectively be a playable bridge between 7 iron and 7 wood...y missing 145 yard club....whether that is done by tweaking the hybrid loft or by hitting the 6iron properly we will see.

However....sometime next week I hope to do a ball comparison....4 different balls hitting Driver, 7iron and wedge...really interested to see how different balls affect the data....looking at ball speed, spin, launch, descent angle and of course carry yardage.

Watch this space.
 
You can all look forward to this post being updated over the coming weeks whilst I search for the "missing link" i.e. the club(s) that will effectively be a playable bridge between 7 iron and 7 wood...y missing 145 yard club....whether that is done by tweaking the hybrid loft or by hitting the 6iron properly we will see.

However....sometime next week I hope to do a ball comparison....4 different balls hitting Driver, 7iron and wedge...really interested to see how different balls affect the data....looking at ball speed, spin, launch, descent angle and of course carry yardage.

Watch this space.
Good luck. Hope u find your missing link 👍
 
Correcting pedant mode on: Descent : Correcting Pedant mode off

You are right though, I was struggling to remember what the 3rd D was.

Decent FFS 😁

The next post I have no clue about, so apologies for attempting to be a grammar coach.

Descent angle was really a revelation for me as a player who always struggled to get height. I swapped my 5, 6, 7 irons for the T200 HL versions and it helped me massively. I left that fitting with a blended set (T150's always worked for me 8 iron up) hitting the LGPA average in all three areas - my distances are more LPGA than the fella's...

But as the lessons progress, I hope I will be back playing solely T150's and still hitting the stats, which really do transfer to the course.
 
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I've always just thought in total distances and I've been doing that too long to change now. In winter I just go up a club and in a heatwave I go down a club. It's still just as simple without thinking in carry distances. I mostly do my yardages to the back of the greens, so in my mind total yardage works for that as it means I shouldn't roll through the back.
Edit: it's the same with lay-ups etc you just want to know it's not going to reach the hazard don't you? So that would be total.

What's the basis for your total distance? How much roll is factored in?

I find carry and roll out to be different metrics, especially for lay ups.

In summer I carry my 8 iron 150. If I'm hitting from the fairway into the green, total distance will be 150 + 1 yard roll out (depending on how receptive the green is). If it's a lay up, total distance will be 150 + 10 yards roll out at least, maybe 20 or more if the fairways are firm.
 
What's the basis for your total distance? How much roll is factored in?

I find carry and roll out to be different metrics, especially for lay ups.

In summer I carry my 8 iron 150. If I'm hitting from the fairway into the green, total distance will be 150 + 1 yard roll out (depending on how receptive the green is). If it's a lay up, total distance will be 150 + 10 yards roll out at least, maybe 20 or more if the fairways are firm.
I just find it easier to remember one number (total) and adjust it for the conditions. Rather than trying to remember carry & roll-out which is two different calculations. Say if my 8 iron total is 144, that's on a normal, dry day - in heatwave with baked fairways it might run out 10 yards more, whereas on a damp winter's day it won't run at all so it's probably 10 yards less. I'll just start on that basis and adjust as I go.
 
I just find it easier to remember one number (total) and adjust it for the conditions. Rather than trying to remember carry & roll-out which is two different calculations. Say if my 8 iron total is 144, that's on a normal, dry day - in heatwave with baked fairways it might run out 10 yards more, whereas on a damp winter's day it won't run at all so it's probably 10 yards less. I'll just start on that basis and adjust as I go.
I've learned that in irons, and other clubs you might use for approach, it can be very useful to know the carry distance: can you carry the water, or a bunker for example? If you only know your total, you might miscalculate that your ball will land over water and roll out for example.
 
I've learned that in irons, and other clubs you might use for approach, it can be very useful to know the carry distance: can you carry the water, or a bunker for example? If you only know your total, you might miscalculate that your ball will land over water and roll out for example.
I don't find it a problem - I'm usually getting my yardage to the back of the green anyway, so if there's a hazard in front of the green it makes no different to me. I'd still expect my back-of-green club to be the right club. If I don't have complete confidence of carrying the water then I'm laying up anyway.
 
I just find it easier to remember one number (total) and adjust it for the conditions. Rather than trying to remember carry & roll-out which is two different calculations. Say if my 8 iron total is 144, that's on a normal, dry day - in heatwave with baked fairways it might run out 10 yards more, whereas on a damp winter's day it won't run at all so it's probably 10 yards less. I'll just start on that basis and adjust as I go.

Fair enough.

Most people only know one number (carry distance). Personally I couldn't use total distance without understanding the roll out, but then my course has lots of elevated greens where you can't land it short and roll it on.
 
Fair enough.

Most people only know one number (carry distance). Personally I couldn't use total distance without understanding the roll out, but then my course has lots of elevated greens where you can't land it short and roll it on.
I feel like total is more reliable/consistent - I could hit one a bit thin, and it would carry less, but roll out more - so the total is about the same. As I said earlier too, if it's a hole where I cannot be short of the green, I'm clubbing for the back of the green anyway so makes little difference.
 
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