Numbers on golf clubs!

Titleist DCI specs:

SW 56, PW 48, 9 44, 8 40, 7 36, 6 32, 5 28, 4 24, 3 21 degrees.

TM Speedblade specs:

SW 55, GW 50, PW 45, 9 39.5, 8 34.5, 7 30.5, 6 26.5, 5 23, 4 20, 3 17.

You can see that the lofts on the TM's are considerably stronger than than those of the Titleists. The Titleist 4-iron has pretty much the same loft as the TM 5-iron, so it should be (and is) easy the hit.

On the other hand, the TM 4-iron actually has less loft than the Titleist 3-iron, and I don't think that any amount of sole weighting can make up for that.

I would suggest that normal folk should stick to 5-SW if buying TM Speedblades. :)
 
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Titleist DCI specs:

SW 56, PW 48, 9 44, 8 40, 7 36, 6 32, 5 28, 4 24, 3 21 degrees.

TM Speedblade specs:

SW 55, GW 50, PW 45, 9 39.5, 8 34.5, 7 30.5, 6 26.5, 5 23, 4 20, 3 17.

You can see that the lofts on the TM's are considerably stronger than than those of the Titleists. The Titleist 4-iron has pretty much the same loft as the TM 5-iron, so it should be (and is) easy the hit.

On the other hand, the TM 4-iron actually has less loft than the Titleist 3-iron, and I don't think that any amount of sole weighting can make up for that.

I would suggest that normal folk should stick to 5-SW if buying TM Speedblades. :)

Would it not be better to suggest just that if you're buying a set of clubs, you try the bottom, middle and top of the range?

You do seem to be able to extrapolate your own results and findings to the whole golfing population ;)
 
Love the way you can ignore replies and just write whatever you want in response.

Sorry but the idea of newer higher launch clubs seems to have missed you, and you just can't get around the loft issue that you seem to have, no matter how many times people say it you just ignore the facts.
 
Would it not be better to suggest just that if you're buying a set of clubs, you try the bottom, middle and top of the range?

You do seem to be able to extrapolate your own results and findings to the whole golfing population ;)

Yeah, good advice IF they will let you try out a long iron! I sort of assumed that because I had no problems with a 3-PW iron set in the past, I would have no problems with a 4-SW set, even allowing for the slightly stronger lofts in modern clubs. However I didn't realize exactly how strong the loft was on the 4-iron!
 
Love the way you can ignore replies and just write whatever you want in response.

Sorry but the idea of newer higher launch clubs seems to have missed you, and you just can't get around the loft issue that you seem to have, no matter how many times people say it you just ignore the facts.

If you concentrate most of the weight of the club head in the sole, so that its centre of gravity is below the middle of the ball, you will get a higher launch at the expense of a little less energy transfer, because the club head/face will twist upwards at the point of impact. The most efficient energy transfer will occur if the c of g of the club head is level with the centre of the ball. :)
 
Does delc believe that the manufacturers bring out these clubs without testing them on real, average, golfers? I have recently gone from TM MC irons, to MP 53, to MX 23 and each successive 3 & 4 iron has been easier to hit. The objective for anyone should be to have the longest, lowest lofted iron in the bag, that you can hit reasonably consistently.For some, this will be a 5 iron. I'm roughly the same age as delc but still quite strong & flexible. I'd rather use a long iron than a hybrid in the wind, because of the lower flight & I couldn't care less what loft it has or what it's called. As long as I can use it, that's all that matters.

As I said before, an iron set should consist of evenly gapped clubs, starting with the lowest loft you can handle & finishing with a 9 iron about 4° less lofted than your pitching wedge. The hybrids should fill the gap between your longest iron & driver. Names don't matter at all, as long as you know how far each one goes.
 
If you concentrate most of the weight of the club head in the sole, so that its centre of gravity is below the middle of the ball, you will get a higher launch at the expense of a little less energy transfer, because the club head/face will twist upwards at the point of impact. The most efficient energy transfer will occur if the c of g of the club head is level with the centre of the ball. :)

Maybe that's why the shafts are a little longer - to minimise the effect of this loss of energy transfer...
 
Maybe that's why the shafts are a little longer - to minimise the effect of this loss of energy transfer...
Longer shafts and a wider radius of swing will give you more club head speed, which is why drivers are longer than wedges. Distance is more important for drivers and control is more important for wedges. Longer shafts and more club head speed is probably why I get on with hybrids, but not long irons. With hybrids I can impart enough impetus and backspin onto the ball to make it fly properly.

Irons have grown about an inch longer since 1980 to give a increase in distance. Probably a good thing as the population of the world in general is getting a bit taller. :)
 
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Longer shafts and a wider radius of swing will give you more club head speed, which is why drivers are longer than wedges. Distance is more important for drivers and control is more important for wedges. Longer shafts and more club head speed is probably why I get on with hybrids, but not long irons. With hybrids I can impart enough impetus and backspin onto the ball to make it fly properly.

Irons have grown about an inch longer since 1980 to give a increase in distance. Probably a good thing as the population of the world in general is getting a bit taller. :)

keep flogging it, it's nearly dead....
 
Interestingly, Taylor Made's better player irons ,such as the CB and MB, have far less cranked down lofts than the Speedblades. The 3-irons have a loft of 21 degrees, compared with 20 degrees for the SpeedBlade 4-iron! :mmm:
 
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Interestingly, Taylor Made's better player irons ,such as the CB and MB, have far less cranked down lofts than the Speedblades. The 3-irons have a loft of 21 degrees, compared with 20 degrees for the SpeedBlade 4-iron! :mmm:

Could that because the better player doesn't need a lower CoG to help the ball in the air, their irons don't launch into the stratosphere thus requiring stronger lofts to keep the ball out of orbit....?
How many times do you need to hear this..?
 
Could that because the better player doesn't need a lower CoG to help the ball in the air, their irons don't launch into the stratosphere thus requiring stronger lofts to keep the ball out of orbit....?
How many times do you need to hear this..?
So strange how I can get the ball airborne and flying a decent distance with my Titleist DCI 3-iron (21 degree loft) which doesn't have a particularly low c of g, but I struggle to do this with the SpeedBlade 4-iron (20 degrees loft) which allegedly does have a low c of g! :rolleyes:

The distance a club will hit a ball is 95% down to loft and shaft length. This is just simple physics. You can vary it a little bit by different shaft flexes and club head c of g's, but not by that much. :)
 
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So strange how I can get the ball airborne and flying a decent distance with my Titleist DCI 3-iron (21 degree loft) which doesn't have a particularly low c of g, but I struggle to do this with the SpeedBlade 4-iron (20 degrees loft) which allegedly does have a low c of g! :rolleyes:

The distance a club will hit a ball is 95% down to loft and shaft length. This is just simple physics. You can vary it a little bit by different shaft flexes and club head c of g's, but not by that much. :)

That's all you Del. all you. Completely.

Not the club.

You.
 
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