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The problem is when testing like that, unless it's blind, is that sometimes you are wanting to prove a particular outcome and that influences the results more.

I use the same bloke on ebay and generally get 20 AD333 pearl/ A grade for about £12 including postage.
 
He only got these as they were cheap and he was waiting for his new AD333's to arrive. He thought what the heck as he was only playing for fun this weekend. Beginning to wish I'd never posted about them.
 
any dip in performance ive noticed from lake balls would be on the short game side of things. not quite as spinney.

distance wise all balls go generally the same distance. obviously a rock will go a little further! ;)
 
I'm not convinced that an Amateur of our calibre could produce sufficient consistency in the quality of strike to reach anywhere near the figures quoted in the link.
Remember, those numbers are generated from an Iron Byron - it can only swing well........
I reckon there's more to be lost from using a scuffed ball than using a Lake ball......
 
I'm not convinced that an Amateur of our calibre could produce sufficient consistency in the quality of strike to reach anywhere near the figures quoted in the link.
Remember, those numbers are generated from an Iron Byron - it can only swing well........
I reckon there's more to be lost from using a scuffed ball than using a Lake ball......

This man talks a lot of sense:thup:
 
I'm not convinced that an Amateur of our calibre could produce sufficient consistency in the quality of strike to reach anywhere near the figures quoted in the link.
Remember, those numbers are generated from an Iron Byron - it can only swing well........
I reckon there's more to be lost from using a scuffed ball than using a Lake ball......

This man talks a lot of sense:thup:

Makes a change :whoo:

As for my tuppence on the subject.

I brought 48, pearl, one-hit, Pro V's from eBay in Feb last year, of which I still have a dozen and a half left.

They, for me, have performed exceptionally well. Plenty of spin, no distinct loss in distance and still plenty soft enough.

The only issue I have had is with one retired to the practice bag. I generally use these balls for my short game practice, so they are hit with a wedge 95+% of the time. As a result I've had some where the covers have split.

Not sure if this is down to them being "lake" balls or not, but either way, when in play, they have been fine.

As an aside. If you didn't get this from the above, I have no issue with lake balls. Refurbished balls are another story all together. Avoid like the plague.
 
As I go round the course there's normally a chap or two hiding in the bushes that'll sell 30 lake/lost assorted for equivalent of £6 & about double if they're Pro V's (they're pretty adept at avoiding the marshals too)

Most of the balls are fine for someone of my ability with only the odd one put to practice only so its very cost effective
 
Grade A Tri speeds are around 1.51 per ball on ebay, brand new at the moment (2012 ball) is 1.63

I would rather pay the extra 12p per ball to have a new one!
 
I bought 100 Pearl/A grade Bridgestone 330-RXS off ebay at the beginning of last season, cost about £40. I haven't noticed any significant difference in play over new ones, my distance still plays as expected and short game is also playing as I play. I really don't think there's a lot to differentiate at my level.

It was Captains day at our gaff this weekend, I had a box of three new Bridgestone's that had been sitting in the bag for over 12 months now (playing the pearlers first). Decided to treat one of the new ones for the event, first tee shot went very long...... and very left..... and couldn't be found.......was back on the pearlers straight away.....
 
Ive used lake or pearl grade pro v 1 balls for years and throw them in the bag with any new ones I might win and there is no difference I have ever noticed nor can I possibly imagine any one at our amateur and level of play, noticing any difference. The main issue is the soggy floppy thing on the end of the club trying to hit them!:(

I do tend to ask for the more recent balls so 2011 > which you can identify from the markings etc. Also balls that have sat in water or mud for a long time will discolour and fade so again look for that. I guess the mental side of having confidence in the fact you have a new untouched ball at your feet might come in to play for some..... but not for me... a pro v is a pro v and at over 50 quid for a box of 12 nowadays..... Im sticking with nearly new's!! :)
 
i'm usually happy to play a pearl pro v (rather I'm unhappy to pay for new pro v1's) but i find the durability on them isn't brilliant and don't really last much more than a round.

performance wise there's not much difference (certainly not discernible to the amateur) but i think they naturally lose durability pretty quickly.

the real advantage is that you don't have the agonising, take a fresh premium ball out of the box and lose it with the first shot, type experience.
 
I have only ever hit lake balls can't afford to lose that much new ones! Maybe when I stop hunting in trees and bushes might treat myself to a carton of srixons
 
I have only ever hit lake balls can't afford to lose that much new ones! Maybe when I stop hunting in trees and bushes might treat myself to a carton of srixons

A good point. Go in the rough at our place and you're lucky to find them now. Low handicappers as well as high ones.
 
Maybe I'm in the minority here, but I don't think I've bought a box of new balls in about 5 years ... I have always bought pearl/a grade online and find them good enough for me. If you buy 100 or so pearl pro-v1s there will usually be two or three visibly duff ones, but the rest seem to play fine - but then I have nothing to compare them to I suppose!
 
Picked up a box of the Titleist balls from Lidl on Friday. All have refurbished on them and no idea which model they were before they were boxed. I've used 3 so far and they seem fine to me.
 
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