Need help with 1St reshaft project

[theballboy]

hi all
Looking to reshaft my Cleveland 588 mt/tt combo set
I really like the irons but the current shaft I find too light.
Have a set of dg r300 parallel im looking to put in. Plan is to tip 8/9/pw extra 1/2 inch or maybe even 1/2 in in 6/7 and full inch in 8/9/pw

Anyway as far as I know its not just a simply case of sticking them in at original playing lengths as swing weight may be all other thd place, plus I want the 4 and 5 to play slightly shorter in length and Im really looking to have it as close to d3 as possible.

I got the exact head weights from cleveland and am trying to work out how I go about making the calculations to see if I need any tip weights etc.

Can anyone point me in the right direction.
Ie swingweight calculator etc.

Any help greatly appreciated

 

[ruff-driver]

Any use ?

http://www.golf-components.com/swing-weight-calculator.html

 

[theballboy]

Yeah. Thanks. Thats the one I was looking at originally. Seen an old thread on golfwrx site where some where saying it was well off so I have concerns about it. I found a way to build your own swing weight measurement tool using just a nail in a board (to balance club on at its balance point) but the shafts would be precut at that stage too so still need a way of calculating. But maybe its just a case of cutting to desired length, measuring swing weight then adding tip weights as required to get it up to d3. Need to keep investigating

 

[Foxholer]

hi all
Looking to reshaft my Cleveland 588 mt/tt combo set
I really like the irons but the current shaft I find too light.
Have a set of dg r300 parallel im looking to put in. Plan is to tip 8/9/pw extra 1/2 inch or maybe even 1/2 in in 6/7 and full inch in 8/9/pw

Anyway as far as I know its not just a simply case of sticking them in at original playing lengths as swing weight may be all other thd place, plus I want the 4 and 5 to play slightly shorter in length and Im really looking to have it as close to d3 as possible.

I got the exact head weights from cleveland and am trying to work out how I go about making the calculations to see if I need any tip weights etc.

Can anyone point me in the right direction.
Ie swingweight calculator etc.

Any help greatly appreciated

Seems to me that this is not a project to embark upon for your first reshaft project!

Get a professional club-builder to do it!

First project should be something like swapping the shaft on a wedge or 2!

I got my clubs professionally reshafted (soft-stepped) for £40, so the labour content isn't huge.

 

[theballboy]

£40 not bad.
Though def up for having a go
Iv cut shafts and installed adapters etc in past. Regrip all the time

Surely, its just heat and pull shafts. Epoxy new ones in.

Just need to get calculations done on weight. (maybe club builders keep the way they do it, a secret so diyers cant lol)

 

[Foxholer]

£40 not bad.
Though def up for having a go
Iv cut shafts and installed adapters etc in past. Regrip all the time

Surely, its just heat and pull shafts. Epoxy new ones in.

Just need to get calculations done on weight. (maybe club builders keep the way they do it, a secret so diyers cant lol)

No! They have a swing-weight balance! The several I know insert cut shaft into head (unglued), put a rubber band around grip (if not already installed) and then check swing-weight. Then add tip-weight (or tungsten powder, rammed with cork) to get it to required value before gluing it. It is actually pretty easy - if you have the right gear! If you don't, then you are almost certainly guessing and WILL get it wrong, simply because shafts are actually pretty inconsistent - having quite a bit of tolerance built in!

So, if you are serious about building clubs, get a Swing Weight machine!

Oh and a (vice mounted) Shaft Puller (for graphite shafts) and a heat gun, Drill - including attachment(s) to clean out gunk from head and bit to pierce epoxy blocking end of shaft! Practice on steel shafts first.

 

[the_coach]

assuming the current shafts are the 85 grms stock versions - but think they were still at d2 swingweights

dg r300 are someways around 125grms

believe the cleveland 4 & 5 irons were stock at around a 1/2" longer than standard (the shaft lengths down to pw longer in pro, so whereas the 4i/5i were around 1/2 longer the pw around 1/4" longer)- the stock mt/tt (tour trajectory) length & weight to match the cg in the heads along with stronger spec lofts to give mid-traj launch

major consideration maybes would be with the current spec what are the 'gap distances' through the bag are they workable and pretty constant iron to iron - most folks find maintaining a reasonable 'gap' in the 3i or hybrid '3',4i to 5i more of an issue as club head speed so good ball speed crucial to launch angle, peak height so optimum carry to get the 'gap distance' through the longer end of the bag - good number of folks find this end often times ends up with either not so much or no real 'gap' difference

of course folks individual choice as to what they do - but heavier shafts generally lowers the potential swing speed plus shortening the shaft length does the same - if also the shortened heavier shaft are tipped then they will play a mite stiffer

 

[theballboy]

No! They have a swing-weight balance! The several I know insert cut shaft into head (unglued), put a rubber band around grip (if not already installed) and then check swing-weight. Then add tip-weight (or tungsten powder, rammed with cork) to get it to required value before gluing it. It is actually pretty easy - if you have the right gear! If you don't, then you are almost certainly guessing and WILL get it wrong, simply because shafts are actually pretty inconsistent - having quite a bit of tolerance built in!

So, if you are serious about building clubs, get a Swing Weight machine!

Oh and a (vice mounted) Shaft Puller (for graphite shafts) and a heat gun, Drill - including attachment(s) to clean out gunk from head and bit to pierce epoxy blocking end of shaft! Practice on steel shafts first.

Fully aware of the swing weight balance - which is what Im concerned about
I have vice/ drill / epoxy / dremel etc

can build a swing weight device simply - scales / nail / piece wood / measurement from balance point
might triangulate it then with the
http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWEIGHT
http://www.golf-components.com/swing...alculator.html

 

[theballboy]

assuming the current shafts are the 85 grms stock versions - but think they were still at d2 swingweights

dg r300 are someways around 125grms

believe the cleveland 4 & 5 irons were stock at around a 1/2" longer than standard (the shaft lengths down to pw longer in pro, so whereas the 4i/5i were around 1/2 longer the pw around 1/4" longer)- the stock mt/tt (tour trajectory) length & weight to match the cg in the heads along with stronger spec lofts to give mid-traj launch

major consideration maybes would be with the current spec what are the 'gap distances' through the bag are they workable and pretty constant iron to iron - most folks find maintaining a reasonable 'gap' in the 3i or hybrid '3',4i to 5i more of an issue as club head speed so good ball speed crucial to launch angle, peak height so optimum carry to get the 'gap distance' through the longer end of the bag - good number of folks find this end often times ends up with either not so much or no real 'gap' difference

of course folks individual choice as to what they do - but heavier shafts generally lowers the potential swing speed plus shortening the shaft length does the same - if also the shortened heavier shaft are tipped then they will play a mite stiffer

first up - i think cleveland measure to outside of gripend but your right about lengths being generally around what you stated - original swingweight was D3
I definately play in the stiff bracket of shafts but want to launch my long irons higher - hence the r 300 with tipping in the shorter irons

but i agree with the gapping scenario

 

[Gisle Solhaug]

Dear All,
I would recommend you to completely ignore Swingweight. Swingweight does not in any way affect how the club behaves when swung, only mass and MOI does. If you want to optimize these values so that you can use the same swing for all your clubs you may want to visit www.rational-golf.com.

 

[Foxholer]

...
can build a swing weight device simply - scales / nail / piece wood

Then do it! Though you will have to calibrate it too! A known weight and additional (known) weights should allow you to do that.

As I posted before, while your/the website calculations may be relatively simple (they are), the fact that shafts are inconsistent could well make your careful calculations plain wrong! The proper way to check is to actually check!

Btw. You mention 'tipping'. Do you mean Butt trimming (to length) or Tip trimming - which can be used to stiffen certain shafts. Many (mostly parallel from memory) shafts recommend that no tip trimming occurs! If you do tip trim, then how will you know how much you should trim? To 'match' (or achieve what you want) you would almost certainly need a Frequency machine! Just guessing would make the whole calculation exercise rather pointless!

 

[theballboy]

Whlist id like to have a professional sort it, they are few and few between around here. Our local place (equipped with flightscope/fitting carts etc) informed me "we can install the heads for u but no way of knowingg the swing weight" lol. So no thank you there.

Regarding Tipping, I was refering to tip trimming. I think what u hVe maybe got confused with taper tipped shafts. Trimming is a no there but parrallel are meant to be tipped, its essentially how one produces a pw as opposed to a 5I, by tip triming (and then butt trimming for length)

Been able to find a few different swing weight calculators. Have done some initial calculations to start with and will cut to lengths that should produce d3.

Fine tuning then will coming from exaact weightingg and measuring etc.

Bit of a job though. Emailed a shop on eBay to see if they would handle the whole thing though. If I could get a list of reputable builders id def considering doing it via postage.

Any recommendations?

 

[theballboy]

Good thing about parallel. 370 is the fact that you can trim ind irons. Ie softer long irons. More tip stiff short irons etc.