Buying a cheap used car

Fromtherough

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My recent change in job means I need to buy a 2nd car. Not wanting to blow a fortune (it's only going to be used to go back and forth to work - 30 miles a day) and don't really want to pay a monthly amount so budget is only £3-5k. This is the first used car I'll have ever bought so need a bit of advice:
(1) Does being a cash buyer make any difference in terms of bottom line price/negotiating?
(2) Am I better off getting an old decent model/spec car or a newer basic one?
(3) Does mileage matter these days?
(4) Anything else to consider would be appreciated.
 

Smiffy

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My recent change in job means I need to buy a 2nd car. Not wanting to blow a fortune (it's only going to be used to go back and forth to work - 30 miles a day) and don't really want to pay a monthly amount so budget is only £3-5k. This is the first used car I'll have ever bought so need a bit of advice:

(1) Does being a cash buyer make any difference in terms of bottom line price/negotiating?
It might do. Depends how long the dealer has had the car in stock and how keen he is to shift it. But no garage will have a massive mark up in a £3-£5k car. So don't expect too much.

(2) Am I better off getting an old decent model/spec car or a newer basic one?
In your own words, the car is only going to be used to get to work. So why buy an older high spec one? I'd be going for the newest, lowest mileage, cheapest to run car I could. So I wouldn't be looking at the likes of Audi, VW, etc.

(3) Does mileage matter these days?
Mileage always matters. Again, I'd be looking for the newest, lowest mileage car I could.

(4) Anything else to consider would be appreciated.
Don't dismiss the likes of Kia, Hyundai, Skoda or SEAT. All four make decent, reliable cars. But all four suffer from some of the worst early depreciation out there.
When you are buying brand new, early depreciation is your worst nightmare. When you are buying second hand, early depreciation is your friend.
Buy as new as you can for your money. A newer car is likely to have a lower insurance group and lower Co2 emissions, hence cheaper tax. And something from Kia or Hyundai is likely to have a decent lump of manufacturers warranty left on it, and a better service history as the previous owner won't have wanted to blow said warranty.


 

xcore

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Buy on service history and evidence of work done rather then mileage. Keep things simple if it's a commuter car, non turbo petrol car
 

MadAdey

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I think something to think about is what surprisingly no one has said yet. If you are not mechanically minded then find a friend who is. Take someone with you that knows cars and can have a decent idea if your buying a piece of junk.

Another thing if you go private is to get a car check done on it. Make sure it has no accidents listed on it, the mileage is accurate and that it has no outstanding loans against it, or even worse it's been reported stolen.

Someone I was in the Air Force with purchased a car that still had outstanding finance on it so the owner had no right to sell it. Well the finance company tracked down the missing car and just took it away leaving a my buddy a few grand out of pocket and the hassle of having to go after the person that sold him it in court.

Always remember the old saying, "if it looks too good to be true then it probably is" you could have someone who is trying to offload a piece a crap ASAP and will let it go for a low price.

Another good bit of advice if buying private I heard was what to say when you ring someone up. Tell them you are interested in the car they have for sale, if they ask which car then put the phone down. Sometimes local car dealers offload crappy trade ins privately so you do not have do not have the same come back when you find out in a few weeks it is junk.
 

Rooter

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Basically what Smiffy said.
Service history is also very important.
It's also a good idea to check out a car's MOT history from this link'
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history


agree, buying private check the interior matches the mileage.. for example a worn driver bolster and manky steering wheel on a 40,000 miler would lead me to question the mileage. It might stack up, but then it might point towards the car doing lots of small trips (not great for any car!) its always a gamble, but im with smiffy, buy the lowest mile newest you can.

And my 2p, my Mrs Drives 59 plate astra 1.4 petrol. Its got aircon and a few other bits, great MPG, looks fine, nice to drive and i reckon if i sold it today, i would be lucky to get 2 grand. Anything breaks its cheap as chips to fix, and insurance is peanuts..
 
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Alex1975

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Smiffy is the guy for this, its his industry. That said, there is something in getting a car with a really large engine as they are not desirable cos of the economy but you can end up with a lot of car for not much outlay.
 

Piece

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Check if car you're buying is due a large service. E.g. Timing belt.
Check if tyres are in decent shape.
Check if all things are working.
Do an HPI check. If buying from dealer they will have that.
Check how much tax you will have to pay.
View the car in daylight and dry
Look at service history and note any major work done that wasn't part of standard routine
Check panels are flush and not warped or misaligned.
Look for any blue smoke from the exhaust.
You can pay AA or RAC or alike to do a mechanical assessment if you want piece of mind.
 
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