What Wedge?

Glenfish

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Shop near me is selling a variety of wedges all at 50% off, original prices between £29 - £100.As I havn't yet got one I thought I should maybe pick one up, can you guys advice me on what to look for etc and what the different numbers mean, ( Obviously 56degrees is blade angle and 60 is finer) and what about dots etcThanks
 
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birdieman

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Maybe the dots Glen is on about are the Cleveland bounce dots. If you are Glen one dot is for low bounce, 2 dot is meduim bounce and 3 dot is high bounce. If you play a hard lie course ie seaside links then low bounce is usually better whereas if you play a very soft course (damp, mossy soft fairways) then higer bounce is better. For most of us the medium bounce would do. I like alow bounce in a lob wedge though, digs into the turf better and avoids those thins(skulls in USA). If your bunkers are really soft (less common these days) then a high bounce sand wedge 54-56 degrees is useful.
 

mboy1980

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I carry four wedges - a pitching wedge and a 52,56 and 60 degree.

I think that an extra wedge or two in the bag will save you more shots than an extra fairway wood or long iron.

I know diffferent people have different requirements but I find that I am better with high bounce wedges.The reason being that any time I've tried low bounce the only time they are any good to me is for a couple of weeks during the summer when the course dries out with the good weather.

The low bounce generally is better for tight lies and firm turf.

The high bounce is better for playing out of rough and when the course is wet.
 

HomerJSimpson

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At the moment I carry a Taylor made PW (45 degree but Taylormade clubs all have stronger lofts) a Cleveland CG 12 (52 degrees) and a 56 degree sand wedgge (Ben Hogan Apex)

I also have a Titleist Vokey oil can finish 60 degree but with the wetter conditions I'm finding this harder to use at them oment so is out of my bag.

I think 3 is all I need as I can't really justify taking any other club out of my bag. I have enough versatility for my level of skill with what I've got and need to make the choices simpler rather than more complicated with more decisions to make as to which wedge to use
 

Glenfish

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Thanks for all those replies, never realised that there was so much in it!
So I went to the shop and had a look, got all confused again :D , but now decided I will borrow and try a few before I waste any money on buying the wrong clubs.
Unless you guys think that I and other novices should add a particular wedge to our PW and SW for general use?
 

brendy

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My advice to any golfer regardless of ability is to invest in a spin mill type sw, forget 60 degrees etc, get one wedge that allows you to clear bunkers etc and give yourself the best possible chance of stopping the ball.
Wedges are not designed to be hit with full swings so any sort of increased friction facing will help get the ball up and down with minimum fuss.
 

RGuk

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I have a mixture of wedges, not all of which get the nod for the bag. The PW is from the set, the SW is a "classy" Mizuno TP and the two either side (A 52 and L 60) are Callaway tour models from 1997-ish.

I'm thinking about getting a set of new irons and exchanging/paying for the 3I for a LW....so the set matches up nicely.

I'm intrigued about the idea of not using them for full swings....I've been using the theory that if I hit them 105, 85 and 60-ish, it's easier to judge a distance. Truth be known though, I feel more confident just using the PW for all those distances. Full LW is a bit silly i.m.o.
 

brendy

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I might have posted this already, I never go full swing with anything shorter than my 9iron, this is my 56 spinmill, Its a fairly short swing but there is enough to comfortably land it 90 yds and stop quickly.
 

The23rdman

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My advice to any golfer regardless of ability is to invest in a spin mill type sw, forget 60 degrees etc, get one wedge that allows you to clear bunkers etc and give yourself the best possible chance of stopping the ball.
Wedges are not designed to be hit with full swings so any sort of increased friction facing will help get the ball up and down with minimum fuss.

Whilts that's good general advice, Brendy, it doesn't hold true everywhere. My course has two distinct types of bunker. Deep and fluffy and bare and muddy. I need my 60* low bounce wedge for one and my 56* SW for the other. We also have lots of bare lies in the summer where a flop shot is the only answer. I'd be lost without my 60*, but I can seethe merits of finding a 58* SW with slightly less bounce.
 

brendy

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Thats a fair assessment matey most clubs usually have a couple of nightmare bunkers due to condition or level of difficulty, I do my best to avoid them (in my 3 ss2 recorded rounds I have only hit 2) after all they are a hazard to a certain effect and you should always be giving enough club to clear any short bunkers.
 

viscount17

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From previous threads on wedges I decided to test the water. AG were selling some off so picked up a RAM 52 for less than a tenner. Maybe not the greatest club but at this price I can afford the experiment.

So far I like what it can do. I'm much more consistent and accurate using this than trying a 'soft' PW. A bit more practice and maybe the bag will see 52 and 56 wedges of better quality.
 
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