New Kitchen Advice

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

Sorry, I misread your post. So no dishwasher or laundry in the kitchen?

Integrated dishwasher and laundry appliances in a separate utility area and raised off floor. Even the wine chiller / beer fridge (oh yes ) is integrated

 

[KenL]

Off the floor, what is the advantage of that?

 

[need_my_wedge]

Off the floor, what is the advantage of that?

Saves bending down so far as you get older…

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

Off the floor, what is the advantage of that?

We have our washing machine and dryer in a utility cupboard. Looking to reduce vibration through the floorboards we had our builder‘s joiner first create a good solid 50mmx50mm framed platform for them to sit on, rather than have them sitting directly on the floorboards one on top of the other.

 

[Bunkermagnet]

We have our washing machine and dryer in a utility cupboard. Looking to reduce vibration through the floorboards we had our builder‘s joiner first create a good solid 50mmx50mm framed platform for them to sit on, rather than have them sitting directly on the floorboards one on top of the other.

500x500?
I hope you really mean 600x600.
Problem I see is that the current trend of larger capacities means a greater than 600d machine.

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

500x500?
I hope you really mean 600x600.
Problem I see is that the current trend of larger capacities means a greater than 600d machine.

No sorry, the frame construction is of 50mmx50mm batten with 20mm MDF on top. Depth of cupboard is 820mm and width 700mm. So plenty of room.

 

[Bunkermagnet]

No sorry, the frame construction is of 50mmx50mm batten with 20mm MDF on top. Depth of cupboard is 820mm and width 700mm. So plenty of room.

MDF is ok, but it absorbs water like a sponge. Personally, I would have used a council standard paving slab.

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

The things that come up.

Kitchen fitter testing our new induction hob. Needs a induction hob compliant pan. Our current stainless steel pan set have the squiggly logo signifying suitability, but do they work on the hob. No they don’t. Why? Haven’t got a clue. They are quite old. Any ideas anyone.

In any case. We have bought a new small set of induction hob suitable pans. Just because. Looks like we will have to be buying a few more. Ah well.

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

MDF is ok, but it absorbs water like a sponge. Personally, I would have used a council standard paving slab.

Good tip…ty…would be easy enough to replace the base with a slab if we have any water issues (literally).

 

[Bunkermagnet]

The things that come up.

Kitchen fitter testing our new induction hob. Needs a induction hob compliant pan. Our current stainless steel pan set have the squiggly logo signifying suitability, but do they work on the hob. No they don’t. Why? Haven’t got a clue. They are quite old. Any ideas anyone.

In any case. We have bought a new small set of induction hob suitable pans. Just because. Looks like we will have to be buying a few more. Ah well.

A simple test....if a magnet sticks to a pan, it will work on an induction hob.
However, you also must have the relevent sized pan on the similar sized heat zone. Induction hobs sense the pan is in place, and too small a pan wont see the hob working.

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

A simple test....if a magnet sticks to a pan, it will work on an induction hob.
However, you also must have the relevent sized pan on the similar sized heat zone. Induction hobs sense the pan is in place, and too small a pan wont see the hob working.

Will do the test - just expected that a pan showing the induction hob compatible mark would be…err…compatible. Maybecwhen we bought them they were. And aware of the size requirement…

 

[Fade and Die]

A simple test....if a magnet sticks to a pan, it will work on an induction hob.
However, you also must have the relevent sized pan on the similar sized heat zone. Induction hobs sense the pan is in place, and too small a pan wont see the hob working.

Not sure that is the case with all induction Hobs? I can put our smallest pan on the largest “ring” and it works just fine. Also the rest of the ring is cool so V efficient.

 

[Bunkermagnet]

Not sure that is the case with all induction Hobs? I can put our smallest pan on the largest “ring” and it works just fine. Also the rest of the ring is cool so V efficient.

The individual zone will detect a ferrous based pan.Every induction hob does that. The difference is in their sensitivity, and sensor placements. I would imagine if your small pan is put off centre on the largest zone, it probably would have a hissy fit
I haven't come across an induction hob that isn't that way
As for the rest of the zone being cool, glass isn't ferrous based so won't heat up. The glass only gets warm/hot through heat transfer back from the hot pan. There is no heat output from an induction hob

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

And so yesterday we put everything back into the kitchen, and blimey, though we thought we had more than sufficient cupboard and drawer storage, we’ve managed to fill it all, and all too easily even chucking stuff as we did so .

Now we wait the new sofa arriving and must buy new TV for the lounge area. But I think we are just about done. We started on this back at the start of November when I spent a week dismantling our conservatory, so it’s taken 6 months.

 

[Mudball]

And so yesterday we put everything back into the kitchen, and blimey, though we thought we had more than sufficient cupboard and drawer storage, we’ve managed to fill it all, and all too easily even chucking stuff as we did so .

Now we wait the new sofa arriving and must buy new TV for the lounge area. But I think we are just about done. We started on this back at the start of November when I spent a week dismantling our conservatory, so it’s taken 6 months.

Congratulations… And looks like we start next week.. when the builders punch a hole to get the digger in.. Builder says 14 weeks.. I guess 6 months

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

Question for the woodworkers.

I had our carpenter sand down our oak dining table. I gave it a rub with fine sandpaper and have applied three (maybe four) coats of Danish Oil. It looks lovely. However. There are areas of it where it feels like the grain has been raised by the oiling (or maybe my initial sanding was amiss). Can I just give the whole table another light sanding and apply more oil.

Also I sat a vase in the middle of the table too soon after applying the last coat and the vase base has made a circle impression that shows slightly lighter than the table. What to do…should the light rub down and further oiling of the table top as above be the most likely thing. Or is there something I could do before doing that. The impression is slight, hardly noticeable, and will often be covered by a mat so I‘m not into making a big deal of it if there is a risk of making it worse.

 

[GreiginFife]

Question for the woodworkers.

I had our carpenter sand down our oak dining table. I gave it a rub with fine sandpaper and have applied three (maybe four) coats of Danish Oil. It looks lovely. However. There are areas of it where it feels like the grain has been raised by the oiling (or maybe my initial sanding was amiss). Can I just give the whole table another light sanding and apply more oil.

Also I sat a vase in the middle of the table too soon after applying the last coat and the vase base has made a circle impression that shows slightly lighter than the table. What to do…should the light rub down and further oiling of the table top as above be the most likely thing. Or is there something I could do before doing that. The impression is slight, hardly noticeable, and will often be covered by a mat so I‘m not into making a big deal of it if there is a risk of making it worse.

When the surface was sanded, did you, or the carpenter, spray the surface with water (water popping) between grits? This helps to raise and get rid of the surface fibres prior to finishing.
What grit progression was used and what was the final grit? Oak is a funny material because it's so dense, too high a grit and you could block the grain pores.
Did you clean the surface with a solvent prior to finishing (white spirit or meths) to remove dust and debris? If not then the "furring" might be dust particles raised to the surface.

When the Danish Oil was applied, did you sand between coats, or did you just apply one on top of the other? Danish Oil doesn't really work well if you just layer it up as it's already penetrated and prevented any further absorption. Best way is to use a fine grit to create a "slurry" in the oil before removing the excess.

How ling did you give the oil to penetrate before removing the excess?

One thing I'd probably avoid is Danish Oil on Oak. It can react with the tannins in the wood and cause black spots. Also, Danish Oil isn't really a protective finish as such and I avoid using it on tables or anything that's going to see a lot of use. For that it's better to use a hard wax oil like Rubio or Osmo.

Lastly, how long did you give it to cure? There is varnish in Danish Oil and this can take up to a week to fully cure before "proper" usage should be attempted (affected by temp/humidity).

I realise there are a lot of questions here, but properly finishing wood is a bit of an art form. I've made countless mistakes over the last 2 years using the wrong finish, or not prepping the surface, or not sanding between coats of finish or just doing something innocuous but stupid that prevents the finish from curing properly.

If it were me, I'd be looking to sand the entire table top back to bare wood (top and bottom) and start again using a more appropriate finish.

 

[Bratty]

And so yesterday we put everything back into the kitchen, and blimey, though we thought we had more than sufficient cupboard and drawer storage, we’ve managed to fill it all, and all too easily even chucking stuff as we did so .

Now we wait the new sofa arriving and must buy new TV for the lounge area. But I think we are just about done. We started on this back at the start of November when I spent a week dismantling our conservatory, so it’s taken 6 months.

PHOTOS!!! Can't believe you haven't shared any photos!!!

 

[SwingsitlikeHogan]

When the surface was sanded, did you, or the carpenter, spray the surface with water (water popping) between grits? This helps to raise and get rid of the surface fibres prior to finishing.
What grit progression was used and what was the final grit? Oak is a funny material because it's so dense, too high a grit and you could block the grain pores.
Did you clean the surface with a solvent prior to finishing (white spirit or meths) to remove dust and debris? If not then the "furring" might be dust particles raised to the surface.

When the Danish Oil was applied, did you sand between coats, or did you just apply one on top of the other? Danish Oil doesn't really work well if you just layer it up as it's already penetrated and prevented any further absorption. Best way is to use a fine grit to create a "slurry" in the oil before removing the excess.

How ling did you give the oil to penetrate before removing the excess?

One thing I'd probably avoid is Danish Oil on Oak. It can react with the tannins in the wood and cause black spots. Also, Danish Oil isn't really a protective finish as such and I avoid using it on tables or anything that's going to see a lot of use. For that it's better to use a hard wax oil like Rubio or Osmo.

Lastly, how long did you give it to cure? There is varnish in Danish Oil and this can take up to a week to fully cure before "proper" usage should be attempted (affected by temp/humidity).

I realise there are a lot of questions here, but properly finishing wood is a bit of an art form. I've made countless mistakes over the last 2 years using the wrong finish, or not prepping the surface, or not sanding between coats of finish or just doing something innocuous but stupid that prevents the finish from curing properly.

If it were me, I'd be looking to sand the entire table top back to bare wood (top and bottom) and start again using a more appropriate finish.

Blimey. Start again then as is you advice as I only did a light sanding after our carpenter had sanded it and simply applied the coats one after the other with only maybe half a day between coats…with no sanding between coats. Hmm. I don’t have much of a sander to do it and the builders are basically finished for the time being - will ask my Mrs.

 

[GreiginFife]

Blimey. Start again then as is you advice as I only did a light sanding after our carpenter had sanded it and simply applied the coats one after the other with only maybe half a day between coats…with no sanding between coats. Hmm. I don’t have much of a sander to do it and the builders are basically finished for the time being - will ask my Mrs.

If it’s a heavy use table and you want it to look right then, sadly, yes.

Preparation provides the finish as they say. What you have done is try to lay oil on oil with nowhere for it to go but sit on the surface until you wiped it off. Then repeated the process.

Danish is a lovely decorative finish, but there are far, far better alternatives now (even though most aren’t new, just repurposed. E.g. Rubio Monocoat and Osmo PolyX are both hard wax floor oils, so take a proper beating hence why many furniture makers are using them on tables and desks etc).

I’m a massive fan of Rubio Cotton White on Oak, it gives a beautiful light satin sheen while the grain lines are really highlighted in white as it tints the wood.

There are no quick fixes to well finished tabletops I’m afraid, I’d love it if there were but whatever finish you use, expect the table top to be out of use for 7-10 days from applying the final coat.