Calling all buiders, I have a soffit conundrum.

[Slime]

Many years ago my facias were replaced with PVCu ones, and they still look good.
It's now time to do the soffits, which I'm having to tackle myself due to a shortage of funds.
Here's the question .................... can they be glued over the existing soffits?
I have a box of 30mm Polytop pins, the problem is they go straight through the existing soffit but pull straight back out! I don't want to remove the existing soffit as I've been told it's asbestos cement.
It's also bloody difficult trying to nail a bendy thing whilst at the top of a ladder.
One hand to hold the soffit, one hand to hold the Polypin ................ but I don't have a third hand to hammer with!
I tried holding the soffit in place with my head .................... that went well .
If glueing is a possibility, what should I use. I've heard gripfill doesn't really work on outdoor jobs but someone recommended Sticks Like Sh*t or Serious Stuff Wet Grab.

Many thanks in advance :thup:.

​

 

[williamalex1]

Many years ago my facias were replaced with PVCu ones, and they still look good.
It's now time to do the soffits, which I'm having to tackle myself due to a shortage of funds.
Here's the question .................... can they be glued over the existing soffits?
I have a box of 30mm Polytop pins, the problem is they go straight through the existing soffit but pull straight back out! I don't want to remove the existing soffit as I've been told it's asbestos cement.
It's also bloody difficult trying to nail a bendy thing whilst at the top of a ladder.
One hand to hold the soffit, one hand to hold the Polypin ................ but I don't have a third hand to hammer with!
I tried holding the soffit in place with my head .................... that went well .
If glueing is a possibility, what should I use. I've heard gripfill doesn't really work on outdoor jobs but someone recommended Sticks Like Sh*t or Serious Stuff Wet Grab.

Many thanks in advance :thup:.

​

Drywall screws using number plate type pvc caps, might do the job.

 

[Deleted member 1740]

CT1 is good gear. Fit the new boards with this then let it go off, once that's done go back with some pins and just tack them on.

 

[Slime]

Drywall screws using number plate type pvc caps, might do the job.

CT1 is good gear. Fit the new boards with this then let it go off, once that's done go back with some pins and just tack them on.

Two great shouts guys.
Many thanks :thup:.

 

[the smiling assassin]

screwing into asbestos boards sounds unhealthy

 

[williamalex1]

screwing into asbestos boards sounds unhealthy

If you're that worried samples should be taken by experts and sent for analysis . There's quite a few different types of asbestos and artex, some are dangerous some not.
IMHO fixing external PVC cladding on top of suspected asbestos by the odd drywall screw, would be classed as minor works, maybe wear a face masks for extra safety .

Personally i wouldn't depend on adhesive alone.:thup:

 

[ScienceBoy]

What on earth are soffits and fascias?

 

[davemc1]

yeah ct1 or similar is a good shout, as is Not screwing into asbestos.

only thing I can add is, the ct1 may not hold while wet, so in between your dots I'd use a double sided tape. Come to think of it the tape would be sufficient without ct1 I reckon.

Also, don't be scared to ask for advice wherever you buy your plastics from

 

[Deleted member 1740]

yeah ct1 or similar is a good shout, as is Not screwing into asbestos.

only thing I can add is, the ct1 may not hold while wet, so in between your dots I'd use a double sided tape. Come to think of it the tape would be sufficient without ct1 I reckon.

Also, don't be scared to ask for advice wherever you buy your plastics from

CT1 can be applied on wet surfaces.

 

[Deleted member 1740]

What on earth are soffits and fascias?

The white plastic or wood Where your gutters are attached to outside your house.

 

[davemc1]

CT1 can be applied on wet surfaces.

I know mate, I meant I'm not sure it would hold up there before it's cured, weight wise. hence the tape

 

[Owen_Thomas_14]

CT1 is the best in the business! Can't fault the stuff but it ain't cheap... £10 a tube

 

[Tiger man]

Under your original soffits will be a good timber fixing, either the roof spars or batons. Just need to find them as the soffit is not fixed to fresh air.

 

[shivas irons]

Are you sure the soffits are asbestos cement? I had my soffits replaced early on in the year and they were made out of a material called supalux which looked very similar to asbestos cement,although supalux is asbestos free the builders didnt take any chances thou and had two samples tested and they were clear.Personally I would definatly get the material tested,its not expesive to do and for piece of mind.

 

[Fish]

I know mate, I meant I'm not sure it would hold up there before it's cured, weight wise. hence the tape

It doesn't need to cure, CT1 will adhere immediately even when fully submerged.

Get longer pins, 30mm is too short anyway, wavy live of CT1 along soffit, tap your pins into the soffit board before putting in place and then when the CT1 has grabbed the soffit tap the 50mm (or longer) pins in. You want the pins in soldiers and equally placed, not too far apart so no stress are on them.

 

[Slime]

It doesn't need to cure, CT1 will adhere immediately even when fully submerged.

Get longer pins, 30mm is too short anyway, wavy live of CT1 along soffit, tap your pins into the soffit board before putting in place and then when the CT1 has grabbed the soffit tap the 50mm (or longer) pins in. You want the pins in soldiers and equally placed, not too far apart so no stress are on them.

Cheers Fish, I'll give that a go :thup:.

 

[rulefan]

I don't see moisture as a problem. Providing your fascias, tiles, felt and eaves protectors (if fitted) are sound, the soffits should be nice and dry. Rain rarely goes upwards.