# Which glue to use to repair driver head



## dejf (Mar 27, 2015)

My driver fell off during my drive today. :mmm:

It seems it is not broken, just fell off, went about 50 meters along the FW to the bushes, but we found it. 

The shaft is all OK, the head is OK too, the head can be put on the shaft and you could not see that something is wrong. 
It looks like it can be repaired with just a glue. Is it possible? Which glue would you recommend to use?

Edit: Looking at the prices of "Shafting epoxy", it might be better (cheaper) idea to find someone who repairs clubs every day ... 
Any tips (Bracknell area)?


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## bobmac (Mar 27, 2015)

Use the epoxy glue, the stuff you have to mix up

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Araldite-...005&rk=3&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=151126820585&rt=nc


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## dejf (Mar 27, 2015)

bobmac said:



			Use the epoxy glue, the stuff you have to mix up

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Araldite-...005&rk=3&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=151126820585&rt=nc

Click to expand...

Thank you! That one is much cheaper than those I found. 6 GBP is not that bad.


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## Foxholer (Mar 27, 2015)

What Driver is it? Is it one with an adapter where the shaft can be swapped for another?

Or is it one with the shaft glued in?

While not impossible, I'm very surprised that it simply came loose and shaft and head parted company. It wouldn't surprise me if it happened as a consequence of being squashed when it was shipped over from CR.

But if it really has, then a good cleanout of the hozel and simply re-gluing (with Araldite or other epoxy) and reinsertion should work. Araldite can be obtained in hardware shops and even some newsagents!


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## dejf (Mar 27, 2015)

Foxholer: This driver has some history. The original driver head cracked at the top after about 1 year. Although this was obviously problem in the head itself, the supplier told me it was my fault that it cracked. They told me I hit it off sweetspot :ears: (I was HCP ~20 back then). OK, so I decided that I will buy a random head, so I found this very cheap Ping driver head on eBay-like store in CR and let our professional golf maker to install it on my shaft instead of the cracked one. 

Although the cheap Ping head was not that good on the performance, I really liked this driver, because it was still very solid and I played it for ~5 years without a problem. Until today 

I don't think it fell off because of the transport. It was very well packed and I've hit like 20-25 balls on driving with it on Friday without a problem. But I won't ever know for sure what really happened ...

Yes, it really seems that it just fell off. I will try to find that Araldite thing locally, or I buy it from Amazon. 



Funny thing was that I think I hit the ball OK, straight, long and only then the head fell off. But since the driver head fell off, neither of 3 of us in our flight today was paying attention to the ball, and we never found the ball and so I did not finish the hole :angry:


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## Bobirdie (Mar 27, 2015)

Araldite from homebase/b and q does the job


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## AGPGA (Mar 27, 2015)

Foxholer said:



			But if it really has, then a good cleanout of the hozel and simply re-gluing (with Araldite or other epoxy) and reinsertion should work. Araldite can be obtained in hardware shops and even some newsagents!
		
Click to expand...

Youll also need to clear the old glue from the tip of the shaft - if this is blocked with glue you won't be able to get the shaft back on as air will get locked in the hosel.

a small drill bit or similar item will do that - then it's a clean hosel and
simple re glue. You'll find videos on YouTube to help.


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

Thanks guys.

Funny thing is that for 5 years I thought i was Ping driver head, but now I see it is Callaway 

So here is how it looks now after some cleaning - click for bigger images. Any thoughts on this before I go to the store for the glue?


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

Foxholer: missed your question on the type of driver ... it is the one with the shaft glued in


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## Foxholer (Mar 28, 2015)

AGPGA said:



			Youll also need to clear the old glue from the tip of the shaft - if this is blocked with glue you won't be able to get the shaft back on as air will get locked in the hosel.

a small drill bit or similar item will do that - then it's a clean hosel and
simple re glue. You'll find videos on YouTube to help.
		
Click to expand...

It's not so much the fact that air gets locked in the hosel, as the shaft can be screwed/eased in (provided the old glue has been cleaned out). But the new glue going up the tip also provides an excellent key to 'lock' everything together'. The failure to do that may well have been why it eventually separated from the head, so definitely worth doing.

Not absolutely certain what Cally head that is, but some of them are virtual ore partial 'bore thru' ones where the shaft actually fits quite a way into the head. So best to measure how deep it goes with something first, then make sure shaft is fully rammed into the hosel/head. Again, partial insertion could have contributed to the head coming loose.


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

Yes, this is the case, the shaft diameter is just about the same as the hosel hole. In fact, the shaft is hard to get off the head if inserted into it even without any glue.

And it is a good idea to measure how deep the hole is! Will do


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

OK, so I tried to clean the residues of the glue inside the head, but was not very successful with that since I have no tools here. I managed to put shaft inside deep enough, however. The problem was that while I inserted the glued shaft into glued hole, the air started to compress inside and the shaft was popping out from the hole unless pressed against with greater force. I don't have a good feeling about the compressed air inside. I have managed to use gorilla tape to keep shaft inside, but I am afraid it might be a problem during normal operation later. There will be force of compressed air that will want separate shaft from the head and the only thing that is going to prevent popping out will be the glue. Is it a problem?


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## Foxholer (Mar 28, 2015)

Did you clean the epoxy out from the core of the shaft? It's normally Glue that is forcing it out btw, not air - though the effect is the same. Allowing it to go up the middle of the shaft relieves that pressure.


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

Yes, I cleaned it as much as I could.
So it was the glue ... ? Not sure how, but OK.
But if it was the glue, it should be OK once it hardens, right? 
Well, we will see 

In the worst case ... I will have to buy a brand new driver, yey :whoo:


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## bobmac (Mar 28, 2015)

dejf said:



			Yes, I cleaned it as much as I could.
So it was the glue ... ? Not sure how, but OK.
But if it was the glue, it should be OK once it hardens, right? 
Well, we will see 

In the worst case ... I will have to buy a brand new driver, yey :whoo:
		
Click to expand...

Why not take the head and shaft to your local pro and get him/her to help


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## duncan mackie (Mar 28, 2015)

dejf said:



			Yes, I cleaned it as much as I could.
So it was the glue ... ? Not sure how, but OK.
		
Click to expand...

there's a reason for that small hole in the top of the rubber grip....combined with the hollow shaft they prevent the airlock forming in the way it apparently did.


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

bobmac said:



			Why not take the head and shaft to your local pro and get him/her to help
		
Click to expand...

Was about to do that ... but don't know anyone here ... and in BM PRO shop they told me they just don't have the glue at the moment.


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## dejf (Mar 28, 2015)

duncan mackie said:



			there's a reason for that small hole in the top of the rubber grip....combined with the hollow shaft they prevent the airlock forming in the way it apparently did.
		
Click to expand...

Good point, thanks. Will try next time


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## Foxholer (Mar 28, 2015)

duncan mackie said:



			there's a reason for that small hole in the top of the rubber grip....combined with the hollow shaft they prevent the airlock forming in the way it apparently did.
		
Click to expand...

Of course, if the swing weight has been set by pouring Tungsten Powder down the shaft, then ramming a cork stopper down it......


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## duncan mackie (Mar 28, 2015)

Foxholer said:



			Of course, if the swing weight has been set by pouring Tungsten Powder down the shaft, then ramming a cork stopper down it...... 

Click to expand...

....you will find you have a problem looming when checking that you can get an airflow through the shaft before assembling.


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## dejf (Apr 1, 2015)

Thank you all for your tips. I have been on the driving today and hit ~20 balls with the driver and it seems that it is OK. At least for some time I have my driver back. Thanks guys! :thup:


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