# Help!! What's the difference between Oversized and Medium Sized Irons?



## mashie1979 (Dec 25, 2013)

Hi, I've started playing Golf after a gap of 15 years. While I'm managing to play to a handicap of 8 (not bad after a long lay off), I find myself a little confused with the latest golf technology doing the rounds these days. I have a full set of Spalding Paradox - Oversize Irons (1996 model), besides 3 & 5 metal woods of the same make, and a Taylormade Burner driver, in my bag. *My question is: Is there any difference between my old Paradox Oversize Irons and the new Smaller Sized Irons on sale today, in terms of performance?* _(N.B. the size of my 4 iron, from heel to toe, is around 9 and a half centimetres)
	

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## delc (Dec 25, 2013)

mashie1979 said:



			Hi, I've started playing Golf after a gap of 15 years. While I'm managing to play to a handicap of 8 (not bad after a long lay off), I find myself a little confused with the latest golf technology doing the rounds these days. I have a full set of Spalding Paradox - Oversize Irons (1996 model), besides 3 & 5 metal woods of the same make, and a Taylormade Burner driver, in my bag. *My question is: Is there any difference between my old Paradox Oversize Irons and the new Smaller Sized Irons on sale today, in terms of performance?* _(N.B. the size of my 4 iron, from heel to toe, is around 9 and a half centimetres)
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Larger faced, perimeter weighted, clubs are a bit more tolerant of off-centre hits. Smaller headed irons suffer a bit less air resistance (so more clubhead speed) and cut through rough a bit more easily. Take your pick! Many modern clubs have stronger than traditional lofts, so will hit the ball further for a given club number. This is a bit of a con though, which leaves a big gap between pitching wedge and sand iron. Hence you need a gap wedge, and 2 and 3 irons are hardly ever sold these days, because they are as difficult as the old 1-iron to hit!


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## mashie1979 (Dec 25, 2013)

Thank you @delc. Your advise makes a lot of sense to me: perimeter weighting, due of the cavity back, plus, the larger clubface, should allow for greater forgiveness on off-centre shots. Here's the trouble... I see everyone around me playing with the latest taylormade, callaway, ping and titleist irons; and while i can outplay them because of straight shots down the fairway, and a big booming drive, they seem to get much better distance - at least 25 to 30yds longer - off of their iron shots, than me. Will i be able to shave off a few strokes from my 8 hcap with the newer irons? Or should i stick to my old ones?


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## delc (Dec 25, 2013)

mashie1979 said:



			Thank you @delc. Your advise makes a lot of sense to me: perimeter weighting, due of the cavity back, plus, the larger clubface, should allow for greater forgiveness on off-centre shots. Here's the trouble... I see everyone around me playing with the latest taylormade, callaway, ping and titleist irons; and while i can outplay them because of straight shots down the fairway, and a big booming drive, they seem to get much better distance - at least 25 to 30yds longer - off of their iron shots, than me. Will i be able to shave off a few strokes from my 8 hcap with the newer irons? Or should i stick to my old ones?
		
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Read my comment re stronger lofts in modern clubs. Your 7 iron probably has the same loft as a modern 8 or even 9 iron. As long as you hit the ball well with your existing clubs, just accept that you will have to take one or two clubs more than your playing companions!


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## mashie1979 (Dec 25, 2013)

delc said:



			Read my comment re stronger lofts in modern clubs. Your 7 iron probably has the same loft as a modern 8 or even 9 iron. As long as you hit the ball well with your existing clubs, just accept that you will have to take one or two clubs more than your playing companions!
		
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Thank you


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## HomerJSimpson (Dec 25, 2013)

Why not get a few clubs at the pro shop or the range and try a few modern day models that take your fancy and see how they compare. If you don't find anything that is better stick to what you have. Playing off 8 you can't be doing too much wrong


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## mashie1979 (Dec 25, 2013)

HomerJSimpson said:



			Why not get a few clubs at the pro shop or the range and try a few modern day models that take your fancy and see how they compare. If you don't find anything that is better stick to what you have. Playing off 8 you can't be doing too much wrong
		
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 True. But, when you get to a 176 yard, par 3 hole, and pull out a 5 iron, while others pull out a 7 or an 8, you do get the shock of your life. Easier to control a short, rather than a mid, iron, i'd think. right?


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## Blue in Munich (Dec 25, 2013)

Depends if you are actually hitting a mid or a short iron.  Don't know how much you've kept up with equipment during your absence, but your set probably goes 9 iron, pitching wedge, sand wedge in even spacings.  Modern sets go 9 iron, gap wedge, pitching wedge, sand wedge in even spacings.  That gap wedge is needed because everything is at least one club stronger than it says on the tin.  Manufacturers have jacked the lofts so much that the number on the bottom means nothing.  Try taking your 5 iron into a good pro shop that does repairs, get them to measure the length and loft them compare it to a modern club, I think you'll be shocked at how close their 7 iron is to your 5 iron.

On a slightly different note, I used to play with a guy and the conversation after most par 3's would be along these lines.

Him; "What did you hit?"
Me; "5 iron."
Him "I hit 8 iron"
Me; "I'm 15 feet away, you've pulled it 20 yards left"
Him; "Yeah, but I hit 8 iron...."

They're a tool, if you do a better job with your tool than they do with theirs, what does it matter what the number on the bottom says?


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## delc (Dec 25, 2013)

mashie1979 said:



			True. But, when you get to a 176 yard, par 3 hole, and pull out a 5 iron, while others pull out a 7 or an 8, you do get the shock of your life. Easier to control a short, rather than a mid, iron, i'd think. right?
		
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Yes, but due to manufacturers strengthening the lofts of their clubs (and making the shafts a bit longer) a short iron now has pretty much the same spec as an old time mid iron!  Please note that if you try out modern clubs, you are always given a 7-iron, so the makers design this to go as far as reasonably possible, so that you are impressed and buy the full set. But really this is an old time 5-iron. The other numbered clubs and pitching wedge are loft adjusted accordingly. Which leaves a huge gap between the PW and the Sand Iron, which has to have enough loft to fulfill its main function. Hence you need a gap wedge and 3 irons are extinct as the dinosaurs! As I said, it's all a con.  You just need to know how far each club hits the ball, whatever number is engraved on it!


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## duncan mackie (Dec 25, 2013)

mashie1979 said:



			True. But, when you get to a 176 yard, par 3 hole, and pull out a 5 iron, while others pull out a 7 or an 8, you do get the shock of your life. Easier to control a short, rather than a mid, iron, i'd think. right?
		
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nope

you are 'controlling' an iron shot over 176 yds - the club's irrelevant to the concept of control in such a situation.


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## fenwayrich (Dec 25, 2013)

You sound like a better version of me mashie1979. I last played in 1992 and started again a few months ago. Playing to about 14 now. I have ankylosing spondylitis which restricts both my backswing and follow through. I hit it very straight but very very short, my Sunday best drive goes about 210, and with my irons I consistently hit two clubs more than my partners.

I've decided not to worry about it and practice my short game.


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## delc (Dec 26, 2013)

Traditionally for an averagely good player, a pitching wedge hit the ball about 90-100 yards and this club was ideal for short pitch and chip shots around the green. Loft was about 52Â°. Nowadays the loft of a typical PW is 47 or 48Â° with a slightly longer shaft, and will hit the ball about 130 yards. Such a club is pretty useless for short pitching and chipping, as it is really an old time 8-iron! Hence the need for a 50 or 52Â° gap wedge. The original poster may find that his short game is much better with his existing clubs. 

As consumers, we are probably fools to ourselves, as we seem particularly impressed with how far some players can hit a wedge or a 7-iron, and the manufacturers have tapped into this as a marketing tool.


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## Andy (Dec 26, 2013)

delc said:



			Traditionally for an averagely good player, a pitching wedge hit the ball about 90-100 yards and this club was ideal for short pitch and chip shots around the green. Loft was about 52Â°. Nowadays the loft of a typical PW is 47 or 48Â° with a slightly longer shaft, and will hit the ball about 130 yards. Such a club is pretty useless for short pitching and chipping, as it is really an old time 8-iron! Hence the need for a 50 or 52Â° gap wedge.
		
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Gash! If you cant chip or pitch with a 47Â° wedge you want to chuck it.


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## Lump (Dec 26, 2013)

Andy said:



			Gash! If you cant chip or pitch with a 47Â° wedge you want to chuck it.
		
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I'll agree with Delc. I very rarely chip or pitch with my PW (47degrees). The bounce on standard irons just doesn't lend itself chipping. The only time I use it to pitch is into a wind when a wedge would balloon.


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## Andy (Dec 26, 2013)

Lump said:



			I'll agree with Delc. I very rarely chip or pitch with my PW (47degrees). The bounce on standard irons just doesn't lend itself chipping. The only time I use it to pitch is into a wind when a wedge would balloon.
		
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Seriously?  You can notice the difference in xÂ°'s of bounce?


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## Lump (Dec 26, 2013)

Andy said:



			Seriously?  You can notice the difference in xÂ°'s of bounce?
		
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For sure. You can see bounce at address, but I am someone who plays 'short' shots off the bounce.


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