# No more nails any good?



## vkurup (Feb 26, 2017)

Trying to stick a 20kg IKEA Mirror door onto some wooden panel that have been secured to the wall.. don't ask for why?  That was the best (read cheapest) option for getting a full length mirror .. I have put the wood onto the plasterboard wall now need to stick the mirror to the panel.   
I had a tube of 'no more nails' I find them very moody.  Planning to go to Screwfix in the morning and see if I can get some 'industrial strength' glue. Any suggestions?


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## Jon321 (Feb 26, 2017)

Standard silicone will stick it. We use it to stick mirrors in bathrooms all the time.


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## fundy (Feb 26, 2017)

http://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-m...nG1cn1suZkwgLzd2mKfXmigNNOTjIavm50aApXw8P8HAQ

is the mirror going into the wood so the wood is taking most of the weight?

this stuff is pretty good, not let us down as yet! much better than gripfill or similar.


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## Lord Tyrion (Feb 26, 2017)

My own experience of no more nails is that I wouldn't use it to stick a teaspoon up. If people have found other options work then go for it. On your head though &#128513;


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## vkurup (Feb 26, 2017)

Jon321 said:



			Standard silicone will stick it. We use it to stick mirrors in bathrooms all the time.
		
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but will std silicone take the weight? remember its 20Kg.  I am looking at fundy's suggestion..  it might be standard silicon but in a nicer tube



fundy said:



http://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-m...nG1cn1suZkwgLzd2mKfXmigNNOTjIavm50aApXw8P8HAQ

is the mirror going into the wood so the wood is taking most of the weight?

this stuff is pretty good, not let us down as yet! much better than gripfill or similar.
		
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Thanks.. 
Yes the wood will take the weight.. the wood slats have been secured to the plasterboard using about 15 screews - atleast 4 of them are wood screws which have gone into the batten behind the plasterboard... feels secure.

BTW, do i need a gun to get it out our do you squeeze it out... Just asking..


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## jusme (Feb 27, 2017)

I have read several times of mirrors coming down when fixed direct with inappropriate adhesive (you can buy mirror fix adhesive which works fine), but if it's going onto wood then I would have no problem using adhesive. I would note that 'no more nails' is just an expensive brnad adhesive. For example grip fill is the same product for a fraction of the price. Would also personally like to have the glue set/go off lying flat before having it vertical with that type of weight.


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## Bunkermagnet (Feb 27, 2017)

Having used both no more nails and grip fill on picture rails and skirting boards, I wouldn't go anywhere near grip fill having had it not hold properly and needed totally removing and redoing.....not happy.


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## Jon321 (Feb 27, 2017)

vkurup said:



			but will std silicone take the weight? remember its 20Kg.  I am looking at fundy's suggestion..  it might be standard silicon but in a nicer tube



Thanks.. 
Yes the wood will take the weight.. the wood slats have been secured to the plasterboard using about 15 screews - atleast 4 of them are wood screws which have gone into the batten behind the plasterboard... feels secure.

BTW, do i need a gun to get it out our do you squeeze it out... Just asking..
		
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Silicone will definitely take the weight mate. It's stupidly strong once it's set. I've seen all sorts fixed with silicone. Just give it a good 24 hours to set, and yes you will need a gun.


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## Craigg (Feb 27, 2017)

Jon321 said:



			Silicone will definitely take the weight mate. It's stupidly strong once it's set. I've seen all sorts fixed with silicone. Just give it a good 24 hours to set, and yes you will need a gun.
		
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Agree with this. Only thing I would add is get a decent brand. Don't use a Wickes special. It's like water in comparison to a decent make.


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## GreiginFife (Feb 27, 2017)

Personally, I use Everbuild Pink Grip on any gluing projects I do. Never had it fail once. Fraction of the cost of NMN. Stinks though.


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## Rooter (Feb 27, 2017)

Personally, i would not be glueing up something that weighs 20kg with the kids about. I just fitted a mirror that was 25kg and i ended up taking the reverse side of the stud wall apart and adding an additional horizontal support for the mirror to screw to.


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## Bunkermagnet (Feb 27, 2017)

The correct silicone adhesive should be fine. However it would need supporting until fully cured. Don't forget they glue McLaren car chassis's together.......


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## Val (Feb 27, 2017)

Use mirror adhesive, lots of other adhesives have a solvent which will eventually pentrate the back covering and show on the mirror itself, silicone can be particularly bad for it.


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## williamalex1 (Feb 27, 2017)

Val said:



			Use mirror adhesive, lots of other adhesives have a solvent which will eventually pentrate the back covering and show on the mirror itself, silicone can be particularly bad for it.
		
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This , plus a couple of mirror clips for extra safety.


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## Twire (Feb 27, 2017)

Val said:



			Use mirror adhesive, lots of other adhesives have a solvent which will eventually pentrate the back covering and show on the mirror itself, silicone can be particularly bad for it.
		
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Agree with this ^^^

http://mycolourglass.co.uk/product/lmn-clear-silicone-adhesive-for-glass/


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## vkurup (Feb 27, 2017)

Val said:



			Use mirror adhesive, lots of other adhesives have a solvent which will eventually pentrate the back covering and show on the mirror itself, silicone can be particularly bad for it.
		
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Tnx.. Interesting never thought of that .. 
However, I am not using a regular mirror.  This is an Ikea wardrobe door. 
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/...robes/vikedal-door-mirror-glass-spr-49811710/ 

It has about 12 cms of chipboard behind the mirror.  To get a 200+cm mirror will cost me about 200  quid while the Ikea door is about 40 quid, plus I have some leftover headboard slats which i am using to connect it to the wall.


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## MegaSteve (Feb 27, 2017)

I am assuming in, these modern times, no one would be using an impact adhesive like evo-stick... Think that or araldite, even, would be my first thoughts...

But, then again I am not a regular DIY'er ...


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## Golfmmad (Feb 27, 2017)

Rooter said:



			Personally, i would not be glueing up something that weighs 20kg with the kids about. I just fitted a mirror that was 25kg and i ended up taking the reverse side of the stud wall apart and adding an additional horizontal support for the mirror to screw to.
		
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^^^^ This, have to agree with kids about - and as they say, "Safe as houses".

Also, what happens when the mirror has to come down when decorating or moving.
When I had the en-suite re-tiled I had to take a mirror off the wall, approx 3x3ft and was screwed at 4 corners and glued to old tiles.

Was not an easy job getting it off - had to break it which was quite dangerous with all the splinters of glass and a real mess!

So its a "No Glue" for me!


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## vkurup (Feb 27, 2017)

Golfmmad said:



			^^^^ This, have to agree with kids about - and as they say, "Safe as houses".

Also, what happens when the mirror has to come down when decorating or moving.
When I had the en-suite re-tiled I had to take a mirror off the wall, approx 3x3ft and was screwed at 4 corners and glued to old tiles.

Was not an easy job getting it off - had to break it which was quite dangerous with all the splinters of glass and a real mess!

So its a "No Glue" for me!
		
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This is one time activity only.. the mirror is going to stay there for the next 50 yrs..  or till i am so old that I cant see myself in the mirror  <whichever is earlier>


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## Rooter (Feb 27, 2017)

vkurup said:



			This is one time activity only.. the mirror is going to stay there for the next 50 yrs..  or till i am so old that I cant see myself in the mirror  <whichever is earlier>
		
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When you move house? I would still look at alternatives personally.


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## vkurup (Feb 27, 2017)

Rooter said:



			When you move house? I would still look at alternatives personally.
		
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when/if we move.. the mirror stays with the wall.   At 45 quid it is more trouble to rip and make good.

The other challenge with that wall is that a lot of cables inside and just one batten that I can get hold off.  ideally we should have space for narrow wardrobe, but it it very snug in there.   Now its on the wall.. will update tomorrow when i take off the batten that is pressing it against the wall as the silicon sets


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## xcore (Feb 27, 2017)

Use tigerseal/sikaflex, used to bond windscreens into cars, you literally won't be able to remove it after however


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## USER1999 (Feb 28, 2017)

I have a 5 by 5  foot mirror in my bath room put up with mirror fix. Its been up there 5 years or more. I did score the wall first though, to make dure i got a decent bond.

Aparrently it is really wesk to put 4 holes in the corners and screw it to the wall. Too big, too fragile.

I would be wary of painted surfaces, as often what fails is the paint comes off the wall. Thus has happened alot with my skirting boards.


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## vkurup (Feb 28, 2017)

So update from my end... put it up yesterday with the Nemesis.. let it cure for 24 hrs with supports underneath to take the weight and a batten from across the room to hold it back against the wall. 

Took off the supports about 3 hrs ago and it is still there.. I need it to survive a few more hours till the Mrs gets back from her travels and it will be a big reveal. Fingers crossed for the first hurdle. After that it needs to survive another 20 years..


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## vkurup (Mar 2, 2017)

So here is the pic of the ikea hack.. .. The backing slats is an old ikea headboards that is no longer used.   I painted the first slat white to match the doors as well as the ikea wardrobe across from this mirror.  I lightly sanded it so that it had a bit more adhesion for the silicone.  Its been up since Tuesday. I drew a tiny line on the side that goes from the mirror onto the slat.  If the mirror had moved, I can see it visually but so far looking alright.  I need to finish it off with a lick of white paint on the side of the mirror...  All for 50 quid plus some stuff from the garage.   A similar sized mirror would have cost about 200 quid ...


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