# Perplexed - one for the plumbers



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

I replaced a big radiator in our hall last night. Straight swap out with some minor pipework due to size difference between old and new.
I followed normal protocol, off went the boiler, shut off the header tank and then drained the system down.
I then had a pizza, not important to the story but it was tasty (smoked sausage, onion and beans for thise that might care). 
So, back to the rad, fitted the new one and tightened and checked all my joints. Closed the drain valve and then refilled the system and rechecked the joints. Lovely I thought, no leaks.
So I bled the new rad of all air and then did the same for the rest of the rads and fired up the boiler. 
So far so good. Then... boiler stops firing. Checked thermostat, still asking for heat. 
Went round all rads and rechecked bleeding. There are 9 rads on the system, 4 get hot and 5 dont. Of the 5, 2 have heat at the flow pipes and 3 dont. 
Of the 4 that get hot, its random 1 downstairs and 3 upstairs but not in any logical order.

Its really baking my noodle. Any ideas as to why this would happen after such a routine swap out?

Cheers
Perplexed, Fife


----------



## Fish (Jan 28, 2016)

Try shutting down the feeds to them all and then filling them 1 by 1 but from the furthest point first, it could be a pressure issue or that the ones that are not getting fully hot there's a build up of crap in them and they all need flushing!


----------



## bigslice (Jan 28, 2016)

Are there any zone valves, find them open them with power off, why beans on a pizza


----------



## Matty6 (Jan 28, 2016)

Yeah, it sounds like they need balancing. Do what Fish suggested regarding 1 by 1 and furthest first.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 28, 2016)

Check if there's an air eliminator near the hot water tank, and the pump is working.


----------



## 6inchcup (Jan 28, 2016)

check header tank not blocked,or valve stuck,manually open zone valve on the heating system ( dont turn on system when filling ) go round to each radiator and fill,if you think it is air locked dont try using the pump to shift it it will not work,you will have to attached hose pipe to downstairs drain valve and fill till no air comes out of hose,ps dont forget to run hose outside and refill with addatives.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

bigslice said:



			Are there any zone valves, find them open them with power off, why beans on a pizza
		
Click to expand...

Davie, there are 2 two-zone valves fitted although neither clear as to what each does. When you say power off, do you mean electricity off? They are hardwired with no switches so would need to kill the ring.

Beans on pizza is immense. Like a massive cheesy beano with tomato sauce.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

6inchcup said:



			check header tank not blocked,or valve stuck,manually open zone valve on the heating system ( dont turn on system when filling ) go round to each radiator and fill,if you think it is air locked dont try using the pump to shift it it will not work,you will have to attached hose pipe to downstairs drain valve and fill till no air comes out of hose,ps dont forget to run hose outside and refill with addatives.
		
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting I bleed the system from the drain valve? Its outside anyhoo so no worries on hoses etc.


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 28, 2016)

Deary me ... With genuine interest this has now turned out to be a good thread and hey with a pizza flung in, happy days  :thup:


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			Deary me ... With genuine interest this has now turned out to be a good thread and hey with a pizza flung in, happy days  :thup:
		
Click to expand...

I could fair go another one Mr D. Good pizza is hard to find.


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 28, 2016)

It's one thing being a skinny runt but what's happening with your heating? 

I've never put beans on a pizza but I will the next time


----------



## paulw4701 (Jan 28, 2016)

hi if you are still having problems give me a ring (mod Edit)


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			It's one thing being a skinny runt but what's happening with your heating? 

I've never put beans on a pizza but I will the next time 

Click to expand...

In the process of draining the system down again. See if refilling it makes any odds.


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 28, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			In the process of draining the system down again. See if refilling it makes any odds.
		
Click to expand...

Perfect timing, phone the helpline above :thup:


----------



## PhilTheFragger (Jan 28, 2016)

paulw4701 said:



			hi if you are still having problems give me a ring (mod Edit)
		
Click to expand...

Generally not an idea to post phone numbers on any public forum.
Send it by PM, 

You got a massive air block in there, I find a Mighty Meaty 1/2 & 1/2 with a Meateor is great at shifting it......

Oh radiators, ..........


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

PhilTheFragger said:



			Generally not an idea to post phone numbers on any public forum.
Send it by PM, 

You got a massive air block in there, I find a Mighty Meaty 1/2 & 1/2 with a Meateor is great at shifting it......

Oh radiators, ..........

Click to expand...

Doesnt seem to be an airlock. I drained the system again, fully opening all the bleed valves until nothing was running from the drain valve.
Closed all the bleed valves and then refilled the header tank. Refilled all the rads one by one, loads of air and then all had water.
Switched the boiler back on and hey presto... same as it was. Heat to 2 out of 5 downstairs (including one of the two in the livingroom right next to ech other) and 3 out of 4 upstairs. 
Its quite annoying now but nothing more I can do tonight. No amount of bleeding and closing of lockshields etc seems to work.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 28, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Doesnt seem to be an airlock. I drained the system again, fully opening all the bleed valves until nothing was running from the drain valve.
Closed all the bleed valves and then refilled the header tank. Refilled all the rads one by one, loads of air and then all had water.
Switched the boiler back on and hey presto... same as it was. Heat to 2 out of 5 downstairs (including one of the two in the livingroom right next to ech other) and 3 out of 4 upstairs. 
Its quite annoying now but nothing more I can do tonight. No amount of bleeding and closing of lockshields etc seems to work.
		
Click to expand...

Did you check if there is a air eliminator at the hot water cylinder ??


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			Did you check if there is a air eliminator at the hot water cylinder ??
		
Click to expand...

There are no openable valves or similar on or round the cylinder. Only valves in there are two 2-zone Honeywell diverter valves.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 28, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			There are no openable valves or similar on or round the cylinder. Only valves in there are two 2-zone Honeywell diverter valves.
		
Click to expand...

It doesn't look like a ordinary valve , more like a pressure release thingy sticking up on the end of a half inch pipe. Google air eliminator valves for some pictures :thup:.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 28, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			It doesn't look like a ordinary valve , more like a pressure release thingy sticking up on the end of a half inch pipe. Google air eliminator valves for some pictures :thup:.
		
Click to expand...

Would that cause random radiators to be hot and some cold?

Cant recall seeing anything like that or similar in the tank cupboard.


----------



## PhilTheFragger (Jan 28, 2016)

StuartC is yer man


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 29, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Would that cause random radiators to be hot and some cold?

Cant recall seeing anything like that or similar in the tank cupboard.
		
Click to expand...

 IMO you have an airlock, some rads will heat, but because of the air in the system the heated water can only go so far because of the air lock. Or maybe there is no water in the header supply tank.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 29, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			IMO you have an airlock, some rads will heat, but because of the air in the system the heated water can only go so far because of the air lock. Or maybe there is no water in the header supply tank.
		
Click to expand...

Header tank is full, each radiator has water at it so surely any airlock would have stopped any water getting there ay all?


----------



## Spartacus (Jan 29, 2016)

Are the diverter valves controlled by electricity?


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 29, 2016)

Spartacus said:



			Are the diverter valves controlled by electricity?
		
Click to expand...

Yes, they are wired to some sort of distribution box in the crawl space behind the tank.


----------



## Crazyface (Jan 29, 2016)

Call a plumber. Don't mess with things you know nowt about. It can turn out very costly.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Turn the valves off at the rads that are working, turn the heating on, when one of the cold rads  heats up then turn its valves off move to next rad that heats up and so on .This should force the air to the last rad then bleed it. Open all the valves , then you'll have to adjust each rad to balance the system,


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 29, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			Turn the valves off at the rads that are working, turn the heating on, when one of the cold rads  heats up then turn its valves off move to next rad that heats up and so on .This should force the air to the last rad then bleed it. Open all the valves , then you'll have to adjust each rad to balance the system,
		
Click to expand...

A 'fountain' of knowledge  :thup:


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			A 'fountain' of knowledge  :thup:
		
Click to expand...

No not me I'm just passing on info from my mate, a proper plumber :smirk:


----------



## Spartacus (Jan 29, 2016)

Is it possible that when you drained the system you left the supply to the diverter valves on? 

If they run with no water there's a risk of the motor burning out and the valve sticking in a closed position, hence no water to certain areas.


----------



## Deleted Member 1156 (Jan 29, 2016)

If the issue is not hot enough, have you considered adding a few jalapenos?


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

Is it fixed yet , and what was the problem ??.


----------



## xcore (Jan 30, 2016)

Turn all the rads off, turn one that doesn't work on and it should heat as it will force the flow to that rad, continue the same process though each rad that doesn't work. Simple.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

xcore said:



			Turn all the rads off, turn one that doesn't work on and it should heat as it will force the flow to that rad, continue the same process though each rad that doesn't work. Simple.
		
Click to expand...

See post 27  He's probably frozen to death by now. :mmm:


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			See post 27  He's probably frozen to death by now. :mmm:
		
Click to expand...

I havent frozen but the problem still exists. Even turning all the working ones off at the TRVs does nothing.
After about a days worth of chasing up and down stairs and in and out of the attic to no avail.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			I havent frozen but the problem still exists. Even turning all the working ones off at the TRVs does nothing.
After about a days worth of chasing up and down stairs and in and out of the attic to no avail.
		
Click to expand...

I think you may have to turn both rad valves off, but try what it says in post 33.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			I think you may have to turn both rad valves off, but try what it says in post 33.
		
Click to expand...

So just noticed that I also dont have hot water unless I manually open the zone valve. This just gets weirder.


----------



## PhilTheFragger (Jan 30, 2016)

Do you have a header tank for the heating ( with a ball valve) or a sealed pressurised tank?

If a sealed tank does it have any water in it? What's the pressure reading?


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 30, 2016)

C'mon Greig, 

It's hardly thermodynamics ... Is plumbing really that difficult?


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			C'mon Greig, 

It's hardly thermodynamics ... Is plumbing really that difficult?
		
Click to expand...

It wasnt for the other 7 radiators I replaced last year. Hall eas the last one. 
Now its tirned in to some sort of riddle. 

As before Phil, header tank is full as normal. 6 of 9 radiators are working, albeit not at full capacity but at least working. 
Each radiator is also full of water. Some just not getting hot waer and the hot water is now not right. 
Cant believe this has come from a straight swap out.


----------



## xcore (Jan 30, 2016)

Do the pins in the trvs move down if you apply pressure with then head off? Does either pipe get warm? Re the motorised valve, check there is power to the valve if the hot water is calling, unscrew the head and stick a multimeter on it. The heads are easy to change if it's shot.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

xcore said:



			Do the pins in the trvs move down if you apply pressure with then head off? Does either pipe get warm? Re the motorised valve, check there is power to the valve if the hot water is calling, unscrew the head and stick a multimeter on it. The heads are easy to change if it's shot.
		
Click to expand...

All the TRV pins are fine. At the rads not working the pipes are stone cold.
There is power to the motorised valve. Both of them seeing as there is two. 
At one valve the lever has resistance and the other it doesnt.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			All the TRV pins are fine. At the rads not working the pipes are stone cold.
There is power to the motorised valve. Both of them seeing as there is two. 
At one valve the lever has resistance and the other it doesnt.
		
Click to expand...

Is the pump running ok?.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			Is the pump running ok?.
		
Click to expand...

Yeah, tried running it at differing speeds but still no difference. 
Cant get anyone out til Tuesday. Need to try and sort it sooner though.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Yeah, tried running it at differing speeds but still no difference. 
Cant get anyone out til Tuesday. Need to try and sort it sooner though.
		
Click to expand...

Did you loosen the big screw on the front of the pump to bleed it. ??


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			Did you loosen the big screw on the front of the pump to bleed it. ??
		
Click to expand...

I didnt, no. Its about the only thing I havent done. Cant understand why its just those 3 rads that are affceted and they are not all together.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			I didnt, no. Its about the only thing I havent done. Cant understand why its just those 3 rads that are affceted and they are not all together.
		
Click to expand...

 Could be that  gravity is enough to reach some rads , worth a try mate :thup:.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

williamalex1 said:



			Could be that  gravity is enough to reach some rads , worth a try mate :thup:.
		
Click to expand...

2 are downstairs and 1 up. Worth a try indeed. Will do it now.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			It wasnt for the other 7 radiators I replaced last year. Hall eas the last one. 
Now its tirned in to some sort of riddle. 

As before Phil, header tank is full as normal. 6 of 9 radiators are working, albeit not at full capacity but at least working. 
Each radiator is also full of water. Some just not getting hot waer and the hot water is now not right. 
Cant believe this has come from a straight swap out.
		
Click to expand...

Welcome to the world of plumbing!!

Changing the radiator doesnt  take that long, its getting rid of the air lock that does.

I suggest you try and drag the heat through  one of the valves on the rads that aren't getting hot.

Turn both valves on the rad off, drain the rad then open a valve and you should get hot water through. Reconnect full and vent.  Repeat with the other rads.

Good luck.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			Welcome to the world of plumbing!!

Changing the radiator doesnt  take that long, its getting rid of the air lock that does.

I suggest you try and drag the heat through  one of the valves on the rads that aren't getting hot.

Turn both valves on the rad off, drain the rad then open a valve and you should get hot water through. Reconnect full and vent.  Repeat with the other rads.

Good luck.
		
Click to expand...

How is best to drain the rad? None have a draincock.
Pump screw done and no air to speak of.

How will draining and refilling each rad help?

Cheers for all the help guys, its frustrating me a little as its the first problem I have had and its just happens to be the very last one to be replaced.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			How is best to drain the rad? None have a draincock.
Pump screw done and no air to speak of.

How will draining and refilling each rad help?

Cheers for all the help guys, its frustrating me a little as its the first problem I have had and its just happens to be the very last one to be replaced.
		
Click to expand...

Either use a builders rubble sack and drain the radiator into bag or empty it into a plastic tub/bucket.  Or if you feeling risky snatch it.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			Either use a builders rubble sack and drain the radiator into bag or empty it into a plastic tub/bucket.  Or if you feeling risky snatch it.
		
Click to expand...

I went for snatch it on thw smallest of the 3. Drained it and put it back on, connected up and refilled and bled.... still cold. I am really perplexed now.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			I went for snatch it on thw smallest of the 3. Drained it and put it back on, connected up and refilled and bled.... still cold. I am really perplexed now.
		
Click to expand...

When you drained the radiator, did you open the valve and let water out?


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			When you drained the radiator, did you open the valve and let water out?
		
Click to expand...

Yes, the bleed valve yes.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Yes, the bleed valve yes.
		
Click to expand...

You're supposed to take the radiator off an drain it through the trv or rad valve. If you do it this way you'll feel the pipe getting hot!


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

I hope you get rid of all this trapped air before Dundonald or the Tofs v Whippersnappers, you just might have to swap teams


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 30, 2016)

Drama!

Good to see you sticking with this Stuart_C oh and WilliamGoogleAlex as well


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			You're supposed to take the radiator off an drain it through the trv or rad valve. If you do it this way you'll feel the pipe getting hot!
		
Click to expand...

But of I disconnect it before the TRV would water not go squirting from the exposed 8mm pipe?


----------



## markyjee (Jan 30, 2016)

With the radiator removed open one valve at a time catching water in basin/pot etc to confirm a flow from that pipe, if one side is blocked or air locked rad will still fill from other feed.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			But of I disconnect it before the TRV would water not go squirting from the exposed 8mm pipe?
		
Click to expand...

Turn off trv and rad valve.

Remove radiator off the brackets.

Open the trv and you should get hot water through, if not try the other side and you'll get it through there. 

Once you've got hot water to one valve, refit radiator, refill and bleed. You SHOULD have a radiator full of hot water.

Repeat on other rads.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			But of I disconnect it before the TRV would water not go squirting from the exposed 8mm pipe?
		
Click to expand...

 Close both valves undo the rad  valve so the water is only coming out of the rad , that's what the plastic builders bag is for. 
 I just hope you don't have light coloured carpets.oo:


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			Turn off trv and rad valve.

Remove radiator off the brackets.

Open the trv and you should get hot water through, if not try the other side and you'll get it through there. 

Once you've got hot water to one valve, refit radiator, refill and bleed. You SHOULD have a radiator full of hot water.

Repeat on other rads.
		
Click to expand...

Ah ok what I did was disconnect the rad at the 15mm entries from the TRV and the lockshield and completely took the rad out and drained in on the sink with tje bleed valve open to make sure it drained. I maybe connected it back up too soon rather than run the water through the TRV. Will do that again.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Ah ok what I did was disconnect the rad at the 15mm entries from the TRV and the lockshield and completely took the rad out and drained in on the sink with tje bleed valve open to make sure it drained. I maybe connected it back up too soon rather than run the water through the TRV. Will do that again.
		
Click to expand...

Just make sure you do it slowly, you don't want to drain the F&E fully.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			Drama!

Good to see you sticking with this Stuart_C oh and WilliamGoogleAlex as well 

Click to expand...

Just wait until he gets my bill


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

StuC you are a scholar and a gent and if you are up this way I owe you a swally session at the boozer of your choice. Hot hot water I love thee.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			StuC you are a scholar and a gent and if you are up this way I owe you a swally session at the boozer of your choice. Hot hot water I love thee.
		
Click to expand...

I'll be up in April :cheers:


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			I'll be up in April :cheers:
		
Click to expand...

I'll be at Dundonald too :cheers:


----------



## virtuocity (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			I'll be up in April :cheers:
		
Click to expand...

Didn't know you were heading up- let me know if you need a game / booze up.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Will see you at Dundonald mate.

Two of the remaining 3 are working, the little one i  the spare room has gone cold again but the main ones are on line.


----------



## Hickory_Hacker (Jan 30, 2016)

Well it was a happy ending!

There should be credits scrolling up on here listing all those that took part, 3 cheers to everyone


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			Well it was a happy ending!

There should be credits scrolling up on here listing all those that took part, 3 cheers to everyone 

Click to expand...

Evryone will be in the Mrs good books. Except me. I will be the villain that gets taken out.


----------



## williamalex1 (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Evryone will be in the Mrs good books. Except me. I will be the villain that gets taken out.
		
Click to expand...

That's married life :smirk:


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

virtuocity said:



			Didn't know you were heading up- let me know if you need a game / booze up.
		
Click to expand...

Sorry mate I'm going up to trump, I fancy Dundonald but I couldn't commit until next month. I'll keep an eye on it though.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

Hickory_Hacker said:



			Well it was a happy ending!

There should be credits scrolling up on here listing all those that took part, 3 cheers to everyone 

Click to expand...

Stick the cheers, I want my appearance money :rofl:


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 30, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			Stick the cheers, I want my appearance money :rofl:
		
Click to expand...

I assume you mean appearance beer... (or whisky)


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 30, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			I assume you mean appearance beer... (or whisky)
		
Click to expand...

I could come to some sort of arrangement


----------



## Fish (Jan 31, 2016)

Followed this with interest as I'm having to constantly top up the system daily as the pressure keeps dropping and I've also got 1 rad that's 50/50 hot/warm but the pipes leading to it are red hot!

I think we should have a Plumbers Corner sticky &#128077;&#128295;&#128701;&#128703;


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 31, 2016)

Fish said:



			Followed this with interest as I'm having to constantly top up the system daily as the pressure keeps dropping and I've also got 1 rad that's 50/50 hot/warm but the pipes leading to it are red hot!

I think we should have a Plumbers Corner sticky &#128077;&#128295;&#128701;&#128703;
		
Click to expand...

Is it hot at the top cool at bottom or other way round?

If it's cool at the top you've got air in the system but if it's cool at the bottom there's crap in the radiator.

That sounds like there's a small leak somewhere if your pressure keeps dropping.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 31, 2016)

Unfortunately my joy has been short lived. Wike this morning to find that the two rads I "sorted" last night are back to being cold again. Not even any head at the feed pipes.
I give up. I have no time to spend doing anything with them today and its bloody freezing today.


----------



## Stuart_C (Jan 31, 2016)

GreiginFife said:



			Unfortunately my joy has been short lived. Wike this morning to find that the two rads I "sorted" last night are back to being cold again. Not even any head at the feed pipes.
I give up. I have no time to spend doing anything with them today and its bloody freezing today.
		
Click to expand...


Is the F&E tank full?

It sounds like a bit of air/ blockage. It will come out eventually, you'll just need to keep on it.


----------



## GreiginFife (Jan 31, 2016)

Stuart_C said:



			Is the F&E tank full?

It sounds like a bit of air/ blockage. It will come out eventually, you'll just need to keep on it.
		
Click to expand...

Tank is full. Its all a bit strange. But busy day today so no chance of working on it.


----------



## Qwerty (Jan 31, 2016)

Bit of a tip Greig, I don't know If you've already done this, apologies if so..

When your Venting the rads just crack open the TRV only, don't open the Other valve, then vent it.
Once vented then fully open both valves.
It sounds like you may of fully opened both valves to vent and that's how the air has made it elsewhere into the system.


----------



## 6inchcup (Jan 31, 2016)

Fish said:



			Followed this with interest as I'm having to constantly top up the system daily as the pressure keeps dropping and I've also got 1 rad that's 50/50 hot/warm but the pipes leading to it are red hot!

I think we should have a Plumbers Corner sticky &#128077;&#128295;&#128701;&#128703;
		
Click to expand...

presure vesell


----------



## Fish (Feb 1, 2016)

6inchcup said:



			presure vesell
		
Click to expand...

&#128563; ?


----------



## Stuart_C (Feb 1, 2016)

Fish said:



			&#128563; ?
		
Click to expand...

Fishy, see post #78 and reply


----------

