Shaft weights - thoughts.

RGDave

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Does anyone know if there are any simple rules-of-thumb for shaft weights....like - should weaker players use light and stronger players heavier?

I've been hitting some really unpredictable 3 woods. My lovely TM R5 dual ti (3w) has been such a good club for me, but somehow, it's feels odd these days.

Since moving on from pick-n-mix woods to an almost matching set (Wilson Staff) I think I have been more consistent.

The driver is 61g, the 5 wood 64g and the 3H 66g.....

However, my 3 wood is quite light in comparison at 55g.

Clearly the answer is probably to match the 3 wood up to the set (i.e. buy a W/S one) but I love(d) this 3 wood and it's SO sweet. Surely the weight can't be causing the inconsistencies? maybe it's the set-up of this shaft, perhaps I was good with it before I was hitting the ball further and better (when I was just starting playing again) and the time has come to either have it re-shafted with a proforce V2 or buy another 3 wood.

:D
 

Ethan

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Two different questions there - effect of weight and differences between woods.

Weight slows the return of the club to impact, so strong players can use weight to control getting too flippy or quick. Slow swing speed players will struggle to get back to the ball with too heavy a shaft. Too heavy and too stiff = low right slices.

Weight normally increases between woods. Typical weights (for the same make) might be 65g driver, 75g 3 wood, 85g 5 wood. With different brands, there is a trade off between stiffness and wight. If your 3 wood is stiffer than your driver, you might not want it also to be heavier.
 

RGDave

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Slow swing speed players will struggle to get back to the ball with too heavy a shaft. Too heavy and too stiff = low right slices.

Yes, I had this problem with a hybrid I bought....

Basically, the TM 3 wood I have is not only light but also high launch. The woods I now have, are in V2 which is heavier by a small bit and medium i.i.r.c. apart from the driver.

I don't really want to change my 3 wood (honestly) I'm just finding it a bit light and whippy.
 

Ethan

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Dave

V2 is a lower launch and firmer shaft than a TM stock shaft of the same notional flex, so your 3 wood is probably out of sync with the others. You could ask your pro about a reshaft - plenty of good shafts available, including the V2.

Is the Wilson shaft the UST V2 HL?
 

RGDave

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Dave

V2 is a lower launch and firmer shaft than a TM stock shaft of the same notional flex, so your 3 wood is probably out of sync with the others. You could ask your pro about a reshaft - plenty of good shafts available, including the V2.

Is the Wilson shaft the UST V2 HL?

The V2 in the 5 and 3 rescue are standard versions of the V2 other than the colour (apparently), I've checked this out.

Yes, the MAS.2 TM shaft is almost certainly a light/HL for lesser players.
I'm going to the range latter and I'll ask about getting a V2 in. I expect the total cost is probably not worth it.

It's a chicken and egg problem. I don't use the 3 wood much (because anything can happen) therefore when I pull it out, I feel anxious.

Maybe I should just buy a Wilson Staff 3 wood (£89.99) and stick the TM in the paper for £35. That would be cheaper than a re-shaft.

Thanks for helping me.....


Maybe AG would give me £20 p/x? I've had it 24 months and it owes me nothing really.
 

RGDave

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I tried a few at the range tonight.

R7 in steel....(at least 90g!) not good, kept the face open way too much.
Ping G10 3 wood UST HL....pretty nice....BUT £130.
Nike sumo2 AXIV - 70g.....fabulous but tough to hit anything other than straight pulls/pushes.

Ended up hitting a dozen with my existing and couldn't really fault it t.b.h.

It feels "odd" but I guess until I need it more often I should persevere...
 

RGDave

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Problem solved. See review section.

Thanks to all those who chipped in (so to speak) and to Ethan for sticking with me on what was looking like a wild goose chase.
 
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