Removing Callaway Shafts

Region3

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I've been trying to take the shaft out of my Callaway XR 3 wood for about half an hour now, and it shows no signs of shifting.

I've done 4 Titleist adaptors so far and they each took 3 or 4 minutes.

The Callaway is a glued hosel rather than an adaptor, and it looks like the ferrule sits under the hosel further than the Titleist ones, but I cut that off ok.

Is there a knack, or something about Callaway clubs I don't know?
 

GreiginFife

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I've been trying to take the shaft out of my Callaway XR 3 wood for about half an hour now, and it shows no signs of shifting.

I've done 4 Titleist adaptors so far and they each took 3 or 4 minutes.

The Callaway is a glued hosel rather than an adaptor, and it looks like the ferrule sits under the hosel further than the Titleist ones, but I cut that off ok.

Is there a knack, or something about Callaway clubs I don't know?

Gary, glued in shafts are a little different to adapters in my experience and Callaway have a little plastic collet on the ferrule that sits down into a recess in the hosel about 1mm so even if you cut around it with a utility knife the collect is still in there.
But that's probably not the issue. With an adapter you can see how far on to the shaft it goes so know exactly where to apply heat.
With a fixed shaft the hosel depths vary and you can't see it. It may be you haven't heated far enough down and still have a bit of unmelted glue toward the bottom of the hosel bore.
If you set your puller up to apply more than a little pressure on to the hosel and heat on a moderate heat setting (or low of your heat gun is just high/low) and move the heat right down the hosel as the glue gives up the applied pressure should start it moving.
Just be careful not to apply too much heat.

That's how I deal with fixed shafts anyway, they usually tend to be a bit more of a bugger than adapters.
 

Region3

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Thanks Greig.

It's the shaft I want for another club rather than the head for another shaft, so it's not the end of the world if I damage the head slightly with the heat. It's a high/low heat gun I have so I'll give what you suggested a try, cheers.
 

GreiginFife

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Thanks Greig.

It's the shaft I want for another club rather than the head for another shaft, so it's not the end of the world if I damage the head slightly with the heat. It's a high/low heat gun I have so I'll give what you suggested a try, cheers.

Low heat won't damage the head as long as you keep it moving. If you keep it centred on one place it could potentially burn the paint. But apply the heat from the very bottom of the head where the sole/face start becoming the hosel and with pressure on the hosel from the shaft puller the glue should give after 1-2 minutes.

Another tip for the bottle jack types is to wrap a bit of masking tape around the shaft where it goes in the screw clamp as this provides more friction otherwise the shaft can slip (unless they have improved the design since I got my one years ago).
 

Region3

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Another 20 minutes, another fail.

I may have to unleash anger on it. Doesn't help that the shaft slips in the clamp, even with tape around it.

Which shaft extractor did you go for?
 

patricks148

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Another 20 minutes, another fail.

I may have to unleash anger on it. Doesn't help that the shaft slips in the clamp, even with tape around it.

Which shaft extractor did you go for?

you will be fine as long as there's not a massive gorse bush in front of any of the tee's that will take you 2 hours to find your driver head in:rofl:
 

GreiginFife

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Another 20 minutes, another fail.

I may have to unleash anger on it. Doesn't help that the shaft slips in the clamp, even with tape around it.

Which shaft extractor did you go for?

This one Gary http://www.gamolagolf.co.uk/acatalog/Golfsmiths-Professional-Shaft-Extractor.html#SID=118

I didnt pay nearly that though.

As for the shaft, its not the puller thats the problem, same would happen with my one if the epoxy just wont break down.
Perseverance and patiencd are key I'm afraid. It will come out just rakes practice at applying heat evenly and across all the necessary points.

I will add dont get angry as thats when shafts get damaged, I speak from experience.
 
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