Question on Shaft

[Alexoferith]

Hi, I wonder if anyone can help me. I have a set of Wilson Staff Pro irons which have forged head with progressive back (half set are blades, half set are cavity back). I had customized them with a swing weight that I have forgotten now. After all, this is back in 1990s. I had also changed the shaft from metal to graphite. Unfortunately, the workmanship was a bit poor. The 6th iron shaft is shorter than the 8th iron. They used the grip to make up the difference. I wanted to re-shaft them. My question is that there seems to be no industry standard for the flex of the shaft. One manufacturer's firm shaft will be regular. So, how to pick the correct shaft for my use? My lowest handicap was 12 when I stopped playing golf 14 or 15 years ago. I was also told that each club had to be re-bored as the original metal shaft was narrower than the graphite shaft. I almost won a competition with this set, came 2nd. I am not sure about my budget but I am very interested in Japanese made. Many thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Foxholer]

There are now plenty of competent fitters scattered around the country. They will be able to tell you which shaft will be best for you - and will also be able to actually match the shafts fitted so you have a genuine 'set'. Shafts - and players - do have different attributes/flex profiles, so even within 1 brand there can be 'discrepancies'. For example, Rifle 6.0s work for me, but the same company's Project X 5.5s are too boardy for me! And graphite has even greater variation - by design.

But a fitting session is likely to find the optimum shafts - even in different heads.

Which part of the country are you in?

Btw. It may not be the best time to actually get fitted - as 'just returning to the game' is likely to distort your swing attributes. You'll probably be swinging slower than when you are fully back into the game.

Oh, and I'd also suggest that re-shafting is not a particularly 'cost-effective' solution. It might be better to get fitted for more modern heads, even if you don't purchase them immediately. It was certainly my conclusion when I went through a similar process.

 

[Alexoferith]

There are now plenty of competent fitters scattered around the country. They will be able to tell you which shaft will be best for you - and will also be able to actually match the shafts fitted so you have a genuine 'set'. Shafts - and players - do have different attributes/flex profiles, so even within 1 brand there can be 'discrepancies'. For example, Rifle 6.0s work for me, but the same company's Project X 5.5s are too boardy for me! And graphite has even greater variation - by design.

But a fitting session is likely to find the optimum shafts - even in different heads.

Which part of the country are you in?

Btw. It may not be the best time to actually get fitted - as 'just returning to the game' is likely to distort your swing attributes. You'll probably be swinging slower than when you are fully back into the game.

Oh, and I'd also suggest that re-shafting is not a particularly 'cost-effective' solution. It might be better to get fitted for more modern heads, even if you don't purchase them immediately. It was certainly my conclusion when I went through a similar process.

Thank you very much for such a quick response. As in my username, I am from Erith, Kent. Just outside London. I actually purchased a set of Ping Irons not long after that 2nd prize. These Ping were OK but they are so "dead", no feel at all but they do what the box said. I understand what you are saying. Hell, I don't think I can play 3 holes now, let alone 9 or even 18. Just before I stopped playing 14 years ago, I started to have a problem with my turning. The chest muscle was too tight for the degree of turn I could made. Thought I was having a heart attack. For that reason, I stopped going to the gym as well. Then found my other half, the rest was history. The two sets are in the corner of the wardrobe. The Wilson irons now have brown dots on them... sigh. I still have half a dozen of the Pro-V1 not opened. I guess they are out of date as in technology now. So, you know some good fitter in my area?

 

[Foxholer]

Erith seems to be in a bit of a void for the sort of fitters I was thinking of - I'm not particularly familiar with that area - though I worked in Tunbridge Wells for 5+ years before/through the 'Millenium Bug' period!

Just going by the website, there's a place in West Malling, but that's 50+ miles away. Lee Porter in Chelsmford might actually be 'nearer'. Only heard good things about his work.

Otherwise, many clubs actually offer fiting services - virtually unheard of (except for Ping's standard, but somewhat limited, process ) 15 years ago!

Those Pro-V1s will still be fresh btw. Just a slightly different - I believe a bit softer - feel from 'today's model'!

I'd suggest you start with either (od both!) of the sets you currently have until you know you are re-hooked by the game and are capable of playing a full round. It makes little sense spending a lot of cash just to acquire another set that will end up not being used much - says the guy who hasn't used either of the classic Bettinardi putters he's bought recently, and no prospect of using them for about 6 months!

 

[Alexoferith]

Erith seems to be in a bit of a void for the sort of fitters I was thinking of - I'm not particularly familiar with that area - though I worked in Tunbridge Wells for 5+ years before/through the 'Millenium Bug' period!

Just going by the website, there's a place in West Malling, but that's 50+ miles away. Lee Porter in Chelsmford might actually be 'nearer'. Only heard good things about his work.

Otherwise, many clubs actually offer fitting services - virtually unheard of (except for Ping's standard, but somewhat limited, process ) 15 years ago!

Those Pro-V1s will still be fresh btw. Just a slightly different - I believe a bit softer - feel from 'today's model'!

I'd suggest you start with either (or both!) of the sets you currently have until you know you are re-hooked by the game and are capable of playing a full round. It makes little sense spending a lot of cash just to acquire another set that will end up not being used much - says the guy who hasn't used either of the classic Bettinardi putters he's bought recently, and no prospect of using them for about 6 months!

Thank you again for the response. Yeah, you are right. I am 58 now. Thinking about what I am going to do when I retire. Picking up golf again is one of them. Thanks again for your advice. I know if I want to, I can find someone on the web but I rather go for a recommendation. You see, the guy who did the Wilson, he had created a 5 wood and a special 3 wood for me. The 5 wood helped me to attack Par 3 that were over 180 years with consistency. The 3 wood, converted from an old Callaway, remember those, the head was about the size of my fist. Not like now, all those heads have the size of half a melon. LOL. Anyway, that's how I gave him the job of converting the Wilson. Sigh, but I guessed he messed up somehow when came to the 6 iron. And I guess he couldn't afford to get another shaft for his mistake. Sigh. Thanks again for your advice. It saves me a few quid now... LOL

 

[jim8flog]

Clubs of the age you seem to be suggesting would have had some version of True temper Dynamic Gold in them normally .355 taper. Most graphite shaft are .370 parallel so they either bored out the hosel or tapered off the shaft. When it comes to graphite shafts you are correct in saying that there is no real industry standard so it a simple case of trying demo clubs.

Personally I would say that if you cannot do it for yourself than the cost would not be much less than buying a new set of clubs.

 

[Alexoferith]

Clubs of the age you seem to be suggesting would have had some version of True temper Dynamic Gold in them normally .355 taper. Most graphite shaft are .370 parallel so they either bored out the hosel or tapered off the shaft. When it comes to graphite shafts you are correct in saying that there is no real industry standard so it a simple case of trying demo clubs.

Personally I would say that if you cannot do it for yourself than the cost would not be much less than buying a new set of clubs.

Hi, Jim,
Thanks for your response. And thanks for the information. I will keep that in mind before I make a decision of what to do next. Thanks.

 

[Roops]

I live in kent and use Lee Porter in Chelmsford for all my fittings. Excellent service and support.

 

[spongebob59]

Ive used this guy, hes in Kent

http://www.theclubdoctors.co.uk/home.html

 

[Alexoferith]

I live in kent and use Lee Porter in Chelmsford for all my fittings. Excellent service and support.

Thanks, Roops, Lee Porter, sounds very familiar. God, I hope I am not going senile. The name means something but I cannot remember a thing...sh**

 

[Alexoferith]

Ive used this guy, hes in Kent

http://www.theclubdoctors.co.uk/home.html

Thanks Spongebob59, I have bookmarked the link. Thanks again.

 

[anotherdouble]

Get in touch with Jobr1850 on this forum, he has just been for a fitting which might have been in your neck of the woods. He is a bit of a knob but I would buy a 2nd hand car off of him if I was desperate

 

[jusme]

Reading only your original post had me screaming why put so much cost into those clubs. I would be very tempted to buy others that are fitted head and shaft. Cost of boring out hosels and reshafting can't be cheap. Is it really worth it? compared to the cost of newer clubs fitted to spec