Iron lofts

So if you are new to golf and you wanted to swap your 4 iron for a 4 hybrid because you cant hit your 4 iron, would it not be helpful to know that not all 4 irons are the same?

Welll I would expect any pro or golf club salesman to give them any advice they need or I would think they would do their research a little
 
It seems to matter in player's minds! You feel a bit of a wimp if you need a 7-iron to hit the ball the same distance as your mate with an 8-iron, even if the club lofts and lengths are in fact pretty similar. I am sure this is part of the psychology of producing irons with stronger and stronger lofts! 😀

WHIch players ? They only person I have seen have a problem with it is you

I couldn't care less what club someone else took and it seems to be the same with all the other people I have played with
 
WHIch players ? They only person I have seen have a problem with it is you

I couldn't care less what club someone else took and it seems to be the same with all the other people I have played with

Seriously Phil it does happen,just because you haven't witnessed it doesn't mean that Delc is wrong.
 
I have no idea of the lofts on my irons - but I know how far they go pretty closely for the bad/average/good shots when selecting them based upon the distance to the flag, perceived slope, hazards and wind conditions.

Once built after fitting I went on the trackman and they were tweaked slightly to give appropriate distance gapping.

Rarely take any notice of what someone else takes as know the clubs and our swings (lack of ability) vary, though sometimes may change up/down based upon how someone strikes their club and the end result when winds are high.

Once I make my decision and execute the shot with the swing that turns up on that shot I move on to the next shot wherever it might be from .....

Having watched/read a lot of reviews it is clear that certain manufacturers are guilty of lofting them up to try and convince you they are the next great thing based upon distance though my local pro was trying to justify the need for more loft on them these days (or was that a sales pitch).

As mentioned by someone earlier, most here are golf geeks of one type or another so we know or think we know how everything works - and we are almost always right despite what anyone else says !!
 
You're far too sensible to be on this forum! My view is that the lowest iron in your bag should be the longest & least lofted one you can get in the air consistently. Modern clubs are much easier to launch (despite what Delc says) but if the makers called it a 3 iron, nobody would buy it because "average golfers can't hit a 3 iron". So they number it 4 or 5 & everyone is happy (except Delc).

When I first started playing golf in the early 1960's a standard set of irons was 3-SW, which together with a couple of real wooden clubs and a putter, was all you needed to play golf. Starting from the short end, you had a 56 degree Sand Wedge, and after that the lofts went down in approximately 4 degree increments. So on that basis a 3-iron would be about 24 degrees, which is about the same as my current 5-iron. Some of better players in those days also carried 2-irons or even 1-irons.

The problem with a modern iron set is there is normally a huge gap between the Sand Wedge, which still needs to be about 56 degrees to fulfill it's primary function of getting out of greenside bunkers, and the Pitching Wedge, which can be as little as 43 degrees, which is about the same as an old time 8-iron. Hence you need to add one or more gap wedges to (er!) fill the gap. Gap Wedges were unheard of until about 20 years ago.

There is no industry standard for the specifications of golf clubs. This makes it very difficult to compare like with like. Typically if you go to a test day, you are given a 7-iron to try out. The manufacturer will make this as strong as reasonably possible, so that you will hit the ball further than your existing 7-iron, or other manufacturers 7-irons, in the hope that you will be impressed and buy a whole new set. But then you will find the aforementioned big gap between the SW and the PW, and that you can't hit the longer irons because they have so little loft. So you have bought at least one club that you can't use, plus you will need to buy some additional wedges to play reasonable golf. Therefore you have been stung twice! 🙄
 
They can have A, B, C on them for me, I know which club should get me where I want the ball to end up and that's all that matters.

If I changed my set one of the first things I'd do is work out my potential new distances, I don't look up or check lofts, I go to the range or my practice area and see what I've now got to work with.

Ive witnessed the macho thing where someone has a 9i in their hand for a long par 3 and you can see the other player change club and then end up badly short!

I don't care what others use, they are probably better ball strikers, and some can stop the ball on a sixpence and some look for release, so matching clubs to what others are taking is plain daft imo, take whatever club you need for your game.
 
When I first started playing golf in the early 1960's a standard set of irons was 3-SW, which together with a couple of real wooden clubs and a putter, was all you needed to play golf. Starting from the short end, you had a 56 degree Sand Wedge, and after that the lofts went down in approximately 4 degree increments. So on that basis a 3-iron would be about 24 degrees, which is about the same as my current 5-iron. Some of better players in those days also carried 2-irons or even 1-irons.

The problem with a modern iron set is there is normally a huge gap between the Sand Wedge, which still needs to be about 56 degrees to fulfill it's primary function of getting out of greenside bunkers, and the Pitching Wedge, which can be as little as 43 degrees, which is about the same as an old time 8-iron. Hence you need to add one or more gap wedges to (er!) fill the gap. Gap Wedges were unheard of until about 20 years ago.

There is no industry standard for the specifications of golf clubs. This makes it very difficult to compare like with like. Typically if you go to a test day, you are given a 7-iron to try out. The manufacturer will make this as strong as reasonably possible, so that you will hit the ball further than your existing 7-iron, or other manufacturers 7-irons, in the hope that you will be impressed and buy a whole new set. But then you will find the aforementioned big gap between the SW and the PW, and that you can't hit the longer irons because they have so little loft. So you have bought at least one club that you can't use, plus you will need to buy some additional wedges to play reasonable golf. Therefore you have been stung twice! 🙄

Are you sure Del?

Why do all irons not have crazy high MOI and a huge trampoline effect?

Aren't irons heads built to set weights regardless of brand?
 
When I first started playing golf in the early 1960's a standard set of irons was 3-SW, which together with a couple of real wooden clubs and a putter, was all you needed to play golf. Starting from the short end, you had a 56 degree Sand Wedge, and after that the lofts went down in approximately 4 degree increments. So on that basis a 3-iron would be about 24 degrees, which is about the same as my current 5-iron. Some of better players in those days also carried 2-irons or even 1-irons.

The problem with a modern iron set is there is normally a huge gap between the Sand Wedge, which still needs to be about 56 degrees to fulfill it's primary function of getting out of greenside bunkers, and the Pitching Wedge, which can be as little as 43 degrees, which is about the same as an old time 8-iron. Hence you need to add one or more gap wedges to (er!) fill the gap. Gap Wedges were unheard of until about 20 years ago.

There is no industry standard for the specifications of golf clubs. This makes it very difficult to compare like with like. Typically if you go to a test day, you are given a 7-iron to try out. The manufacturer will make this as strong as reasonably possible, so that you will hit the ball further than your existing 7-iron, or other manufacturers 7-irons, in the hope that you will be impressed and buy a whole new set. But then you will find the aforementioned big gap between the SW and the PW, and that you can't hit the longer irons because they have so little loft. So you have bought at least one club that you can't use, plus you will need to buy some additional wedges to play reasonable golf. Therefore you have been stung twice! 

Long write up but completely ignoring the facts.

I can see you aren't really willing to see the facts and prefer to blame the fact you can't hit your clubs down to the manufacturers. They aren't doing it to sell more clubs (wedges etc), or purely to make you feel you're hitting a lower club into a hole. If they kept traditional lofts with the new technology (Causing high laugh) then the 7 iron you think you're hitting will actually launch like a 8 or 9 iron and behave in the same way. Nobody wants that. Lower lofts are actually a necessity. The 5 iron you claim to not be able to hit will actually have the same launch conditions as any 5 iron, the loft is irrelevant as the standard bearer for iron number is launch.

I see you're completely ignorant to the situation and prefer to see it in a more cynical way. I know you won't see the light, so I'm happy for to continue into believe that it's the big bad manufacturers fault you can't hit a 5 iron and that it's their fault your playing partners hit it further with the same numbered club because of strong lofts. I'm sure it will make you feel a lot better

I'm done with the discussion now. Some people will never accept the facts
 
Are you sure Del?

Why do all irons not have crazy high MOI and a huge trampoline effect?

Aren't irons heads built to set weights regardless of brand?

My irons have 'hot' faces from the 7-iron down towards the long irons. Not sure this is a particular advantage, because on the rare occasions I catch the ball right off the sweet spot it often goes much further than I expect, causing the ball to go off the back of the green.

Being that clubs need to be in a certain range of swing weights, they will be about the same total weight for a given shaft length. However I know of no industry standard for club weights.
 
think twas me that mentioned the strong lofts, 26 deg 6 iron, 23 degree 5 iron, 20 degree 4 iron,20 and 23 degree hybrid so some gapping sessions required before I drop anything out the bag.
 
There's plenty of variation across makers for the same numbered club - loft, weight, shaft length.

All I care is my shot length for each of MY clubs!
 
I suppose I could look it up. All I know is it says 6 on the bottom and in perfect conditions it goes about 170.

This^ (carry).

Only I'm a geek and looked it up too. 30°

@bristolmike
I guess you haven't seen the political threads otherwise you wouldn't have even tried. ;)
 
Long write up but completely ignoring the facts.

I can see you aren't really willing to see the facts and prefer to blame the fact you can't hit your clubs down to the manufacturers. They aren't doing it to sell more clubs (wedges etc), or purely to make you feel you're hitting a lower club into a hole. If they kept traditional lofts with the new technology (Causing high laugh) then the 7 iron you think you're hitting will actually launch like a 8 or 9 iron and behave in the same way. Nobody wants that. Lower lofts are actually a necessity. The 5 iron you claim to not be able to hit will actually have the same launch conditions as any 5 iron, the loft is irrelevant as the standard bearer for iron number is launch.

I see you're completely ignorant to the situation and prefer to see it in a more cynical way. I know you won't see the light, so I'm happy for to continue into believe that it's the big bad manufacturers fault you can't hit a 5 iron and that it's their fault your playing partners hit it further with the same numbered club because of strong lofts. I'm sure it will make you feel a lot better

I'm done with the discussion now. Some people will never accept the facts

Oversize heads, perimeter weighting and a low centre of gravity will help a bit if you hit the ball off-centre or a bit thin. The flex characteristics of the shaft have more effect on launch angles than the above factors. Low kick point shafts will launch the ball higher than mid or high kick point shafts. Although I was younger at the time, I could it my traditional loft 3-iron (about 24 degree I think) quite well thank you!
 
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This^ (carry).

Only I'm a geek and looked it up too. 30°

@bristolmike
I guess you haven't seen the political threads otherwise you wouldn't have even tried. ;)

haha no I stay as far away from political threads as possible. It's okay though, everyone's entitled to an opinion
 
Welll I would expect any pro or golf club salesman to give them any advice they need or I would think they would do their research a little

Really? I know many high street retailers (and have seen it for myself) that are set to push those with the biggest profit margins and so for the unsuspecting new golfer who may not have access to a pro they know or trust then these are the ones that are pushed into their hands. They may or may not suit and there will be little if any mention of the lofts. It's about pushing units
 
29 degrees on the JPX825 Pro.

No specs available for the HB&S Max Faulkner Avenger so nipped into the garage and a rough measure with the old bevel square puts it at around 35 degrees.
 
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