Impact snaps

[jim8flog]

It depends on who put the club together in the first place. When I am putting a shaft I leave the ferrule proud of the hosel by a few mm and wait for the glue to set before pushing the ferrule in to place. I have taken apart many a club where the same system has been employed.

One of the differences is whether or not the hosel / ferrule is shouldered if yes I push it in to place before the glue sets otherwise the ferrule will not go in to place.


I have never been able to move a ferrule if it has been glued in to place simply by hot water/steam.

 

[londonlewis]

Nothing if all that is wrong is the hosel is loose. They only stay in pace by shrinkage and if you wash your clubs you should only do so in warm water. The way to move them is to pour hot water over them so they expand and move them in to the right position. Some builders will glue them in to place.


To check if it is the shaft coming out of the hosel just grip the head and the shaft an try twisting it. If it does move then it will probably come out without applying heat. Clean the shaft and inside the hosel and refix using a two part epoxy resin. (plenty of 'how tos' on You Tube).

Will let you know how I get on. Am playing golf on Saturday so keen to see if I can sort it before then.
thanks for the advice.

 

[Twire]

It could possibly be that too much of the chrome was taken off.

These days when I fit a shaft I try to ensure that some of the chromed area is inside the hosel. I also try to take off only as much chrome as is needed for the shaft to fit in the hosel and get a good 'key' for the epoxy.

However I would have though that with a company like Titleist that they have some sort of jig to ensure that the amount of the shaft that is de-chromed is fixed.

Can I ask why you take the chrome off?

 

[jim8flog]

Can I ask why you take the chrome off?

1. The chrome adds extra thickness and the shafts may not fit the hosel properly as a raw shaft, most notable on taper shafts which may appear to fit but are not properly bottoming out.

2. It creates a rougher surface to which the epoxy will bond better.

 

[Twire]

1. The chrome adds extra thickness and the shafts may not fit the hosel properly as a raw shaft, most notable on taper shafts which may appear to fit but are not properly bottoming out.

2. It creates a rougher surface to which the epoxy will bond better.

The shafts will be measured with chrome on so if they don't fit it's the wrong size tip.

Yes it will create a rougher surface but if you have the correct epoxy it's not needed.

 

[jim8flog]

The shafts will be measured with chrome on so if they don't fit it's the wrong size tip.

Yes it will create a rougher surface but if you have the correct epoxy it's not needed.

I have got shafts here that have come from virtually everyone of the major manufacturers , clubs that is, and all of them rough up the tip.

I have only got unprepped TTDG R300 and TT TX90 shafts at the moment and both measure 0.374 at the tip and not .370

 

[the smiling assassin]

Credit where it's due, spoken with our club pro who sent off the whole set for investigation, and his Titleist fitting rep has offered to reshaft the whole set at a significantly discounted price as a goodwill gesture - not paying much more than I would to have the set regripped TBH - very happy boy
:thup:

 

[CliveW]

Somewhere in the depths of my memory, I seem to recall there being a bad batch of True Temper shafts that Titleist used a few years back. Perhaps you have them.