steviehex
Hacker
Does anybody know a good driver with loft and draw setting adjustability?.there's too many on Google to try and work out if they are adjustable or not.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
Driver with adjustment draw setting
- Thread starter steviehex
- Start date
Imurg
The Grinder Of Pars (Semi Crocked)
Pretty much any Callaway from 2014 on
Almost anything from Titleist, Ping, Taylor Made too.....
Almost anything from Titleist, Ping, Taylor Made too.....
Maninblack4612
Tour Winner
Waste of time. Just adjust your grip, has the same effect.
sammyboy
Newbie
General advice like this isn't the best really. I can draw, slice, hook or fade the ball without adjusting my grip in the slightest. He's better off getting someone to have a look in person who knows what they are doing.
OP nothing wrong with setting up your club away from open. I'm sure plenty of tour players do this. But once it's set up leave it alone and learn to make the adjustments yourself. Only time you should be tinkering after it's set up is if your swing substantially changes (which it shouldn't unless you are trying to make it change).
Callaway make the best drivers atm imo. No need to go for a top of the range model either. Jail break tech and all that other stuff is only really needed for the top 1% and even then it's just a nice to have.
Foxholer
Blackballed
Pretty much any/all of them made in the last 5 or more years!
Just depends how much you are prepared to pay! Doing a bit of research could easily save you loads!
HomerJSimpson
Hall of Famer
Most of the main manufacturers have produced adjustable drivers over the last few years (although Ping were latecomers to the party). If I was the OP I'd ask at a local range or his club pro what they had in stock, adjust them to a draw setting and then hit a few and see what happens.
Springveldt
Well-known member
As others have said, most new drivers for the last few years from all the big manufacturers have them.
If you are slicing the ball then I’ll be surprised if moving a weight into the draw setting will cure it, they usually don’t make a huge difference, they are for fine tuning.
If you are slicing then maybe look into something like the Ping SFT range or Taylormade D range. These sit pretty closed at address.
If you are slicing the ball then I’ll be surprised if moving a weight into the draw setting will cure it, they usually don’t make a huge difference, they are for fine tuning.
If you are slicing then maybe look into something like the Ping SFT range or Taylormade D range. These sit pretty closed at address.
sammyboy
Newbie
If he has a massive slice he is better off spending his money on lessons. I should know - one lesson took my driver from unusable to good many years ago. If he doesn't fix it then it will show up in his woods, hybrids and longer irons. Fix the problem, don't pay for a solution.
Springveldt
Well-known member
I agree but golfers often look to equipment to fix the issues.
Those SFT drivers are great for a quick fix without changing much else.
HomerJSimpson
Hall of Famer
A lesson is definitely a cheaper and long term solution. However as a self-confessed tinkerer, if I was in the OP's shoes I'd probably still give the draw bias a go. And eventually decide the lesson is the better option
Chico84
Active member
Draw bias drivers tend not to be adjustable, it’s usually the ‘top-of-the-line’ model each year that might have the adjustability.
A lesson or two will be your best asset and then this will open up the range of drivers you can effectively use. By way of example I have suffered from what could only be described as a power-slice since I started playing. Thinking a new driver would fix it (I was using a fifteen year old hand me down 9 degree, stiff flex driver less than 460cc, so there was some justification) I went for a fitting and tried both draw bias and ‘normal’ drivers. As it turns out the best driver for me was just a normal one without draw bias. This was still not great though so I didn’t buy and instead had a couple of lessons.
In the meantime I bought a second hand TM M1 to use for my lessons and because it had adjustable weights that I thought would also help my slice. Part way through my first lesson my instructor reset the weights to the middle for draw/fade bias and moved the front/back weight right forward.
TLDR: buy an ok driver (from the past five years) that you can easily afford and spend your money on lessons. Get your swing grooves correctly and then splash out on a nice shiny new one in a few years.
A lesson or two will be your best asset and then this will open up the range of drivers you can effectively use. By way of example I have suffered from what could only be described as a power-slice since I started playing. Thinking a new driver would fix it (I was using a fifteen year old hand me down 9 degree, stiff flex driver less than 460cc, so there was some justification) I went for a fitting and tried both draw bias and ‘normal’ drivers. As it turns out the best driver for me was just a normal one without draw bias. This was still not great though so I didn’t buy and instead had a couple of lessons.
In the meantime I bought a second hand TM M1 to use for my lessons and because it had adjustable weights that I thought would also help my slice. Part way through my first lesson my instructor reset the weights to the middle for draw/fade bias and moved the front/back weight right forward.
TLDR: buy an ok driver (from the past five years) that you can easily afford and spend your money on lessons. Get your swing grooves correctly and then splash out on a nice shiny new one in a few years.
Maninblack4612
Tour Winner
Not Taylormade. Loft only. They are sensible enough to know that that is all that is required.
Imurg
The Grinder Of Pars (Semi Crocked)
It doesn't change the loft..it changes the face angle and the lie.
Add 2 degrees of "loft" and what you're effectively doing is closing the face angle by about 4 degrees and dropping the lie by 2 degrees thus creating a draw bias club.
The difference with Callaway and Titleist sleeves is they can change the face angle and keep the same lie.
Maninblack4612
Tour Winner
I can't see that. The loft adjustment simply changes the angle at which the shaft enters the head. As far as face angle is concerned, if the way you set up is to ground the club, then grip, then a face angle adjustment could work. If, like me & a lot of other people, you grip the club in such a way that the face looks square, i.e. the left thumb is a little over the middle of the grip, you've negated any draw / fade bias.
Robster59
Tour Rookie
I have the Callaway XR 16 driver in which you can move the loft up and down and also change to neutral or draw bias. However, the Callaway instructions also state that in draw mode it increases the lie by 1 degree. As I am standard 2 degrees flat, that's not the best thing for me. In neutral bias it works fine although I naturally hit a slight fade with my shots.
Orikoru
Tour Winner
Any Ping SF Tec / SFT model is permanently draw-biased with weight in the heel, and I think from G30 onwards the loft was adjustable. Similarly Callaway Rogue Draw is a good draw-biased driver, pretty sure loft is adjustable on that.
The tech does work in my experience, but not miracles. It won't turn a slice into a draw or a straight one up the middle, but it will turn a slice into a fade, or a big fade into a gentle fade that you can control a bit better. If you add loft with the adjustability that tends to close the face slightly as well, both of which help reduce slice a little bit.
The tech does work in my experience, but not miracles. It won't turn a slice into a draw or a straight one up the middle, but it will turn a slice into a fade, or a big fade into a gentle fade that you can control a bit better. If you add loft with the adjustability that tends to close the face slightly as well, both of which help reduce slice a little bit.
