Condenser tumble dryer

Sats

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My Zanussi Tumble dryer is broken, well I think it is. The drum and heater are working but every time I put a load on it'll go for 6 mins or so then will flash to say the water tank is full, yet when I go to empty it the tank is empty! Any help before I have to fork out for an engineer is welcome.
 
The pump that pumps the water to the tank is probably blocked up with slime and scum that builds up over time.
Not a difficult job if you're good with tools. But even if you get an engineer out it shouldn't cost a lot, probably in the £75 area depending on the company.
 
The Zanussi's don't have a pump(or never did anyway;) ), they use gravity into the water tank or out the back into an open drain if the drain point cover is removed.
Most common things on the older Zanussi condenser dryers was the non return valve assemblies attached to the water tank and at the back of where the tank goes.
 
Daft Q but have you cleaned out the large condenser that you slide out and hose clean? Usually beside the water tank. Not the smaller lint filter/collecter.

My dryer has the reservoir at the bottom so no pump, just gravity fed but some dryers have the reservoir at the top so would need a pump.
 
Daft Q but have you cleaned out the large condenser that you slide out and hose clean? Usually beside the water tank. Not the smaller lint filter/collecter.

My dryer has the reservoir at the bottom so no pump, just gravity fed but some dryers have the reservoir at the top so would need a pump.
Condenser being blocked wouldnt cause the drain fault as described, although it is good practice to wash them out all 4 directions once a month.
From memory it's mainly Zanussi that has the water tank at the bottom, most others have the tank where a dispenser would be and pump it up .
 
I would suggest removing the water tank, and look closely at the drain coupling. It sounds to me like on of the "o" rings has broke and then released the spring tensioned plunger. Without this in place it wont push the machine side plunger letting the water drain into the tank.
Each side of the drain coupling has a sprung plunger to activate the other side, the plungers are under spring tension and held in place by simple O rings.
 
Cheers boys! there's no pump as such but a sliding drawer for the excess water, I'm going to take a look tonight and see if there's a build up of scum.
 
Condenser being blocked wouldnt cause the drain fault as described, although it is good practice to wash them out all 4 directions once a month.
From memory it's mainly Zanussi that has the water tank at the bottom, most others have the tank where a dispenser would be and pump it up .
The Hoover ones had the same system, but some of the AEG (posh Zanussi) had the pump on them if I remember correctly.
 
The Hoover ones had the same system, but some of the AEG (posh Zanussi) had the pump on them if I remember correctly.
You're right, the AEG ones do:)
Fortunatley I haven't had to play with many Hoover CD's and in all honesty I don't want to start now:)

I'm just grateful the modern CD isn't anything like the old mains water fed and copper coil system dryers of years back:eek:
 
Sort of......really need F gas qualification to do them legally is my understanding:(

I used to be a refrigeration engineer but don't bother with system side nowadays. But you can still work on the electrical side without any issues. Tbh, once you're having to do system checks it's almost certainly BER anyway.
 
I'm the same...used to love doing comp changes using a scorpion and oxy/butane:)
I'm still not totally sure on the whole final responsibility aspect regarding F gas, same as Gas Safe and ovens....I won't even do a door seal or bulb on a gas oven. The final responsibility is too great.
 
I'm the same...used to love doing comp changes using a scorpion and oxy/butane:)
I'm still not totally sure on the whole final responsibility aspect regarding F gas, same as Gas Safe and ovens....I won't even do a door seal or bulb on a gas oven. The final responsibility is too great.


Lol, that depends on who you're asking!
According to Gas Safe you shouldn't be allowed to touch anything if you're not registered. According to the HSE it's fine. This has been debated on other forums for years and there's still no definitive answer.
Most people point to the fact that the HSE don't even prosecute most non Gas Safe companies that are still doing boiler changes, so they're not going to bother about someone changing an electric element on a duel fuel range.
As long as my insurance company are ok with it, then I'm happy.
 
Lol, that depends on who you're asking!
According to Gas Safe you shouldn't be allowed to touch anything if you're not registered. According to the HSE it's fine. This has been debated on other forums for years and there's still no definitive answer.
Most people point to the fact that the HSE don't even prosecute most non Gas Safe companies that are still doing boiler changes, so they're not going to bother about someone changing an electric element on a duel fuel range.
As long as my insurance company are ok with it, then I'm happy.
I understand that, but I see a World where everyone wants someone to blame, and since playing with a dual fuel oven can leave you open to questions if there is for example an "incident" unconnected with what you did, but should have been discovered by a manometer test I prefer to stay clear:)
And I used to be CITB qualified, then Corgi registered and maintained it for a service centre.:)
It is however a minefiled, not helped by private companies (Corgi and Gas Safe) trying to grow their own income through regulations that ultimately don't stop the few who shouldnt be involoved in the game in any case
 
Right - the problem was the gunk that had built up and kept triggering the water container light. Fortunately my neighbour used to work for hotpoint so saved £90 for a call out for an engineeer - slipped him £40 for his troubles.
 
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