Changing Shafts

[Region3]

A question for anyone with experience of changing shafts...

I'm going to have a go at it and have watched a couple of youtube vids, but from your experience is there any specific equipment you'd recommend that is well worth getting to save time/problems?

Also, any schoolboy errors or pitfalls I should watch out for?

I'm going to start with irons, but may go for graphite later if I get on ok with it.

Thanks.

 

[bobmac]

How do you plan on melting the glue Gary?

 

[garyinderry]

Use enough glue. I sent a 4 iron head up the range after changing shafts myself in an old set of irons. Put me right off it.

 

[Lump]

Pulled plenty of shafts, just be careful with graphite not to twist. If your going to use an open flame make sure you keep it moving.

 

[Region3]

How do you plan on melting the glue Gary?

I have no plan yet Bob, hence the question.

I was thinking either electric heat gun or butane torch, but since I know nothing was hoping for advice from people that have done it :thup:

 

[Wildrover]

I wouldn't advise the butane torch on graphite, although it will be fine on steel. Use a heat gun on the graphite and as someone else said, don't twist the graphite shaft as you pull it out or you could break it. Use a good epoxy (DP810) to glue new shafts in and let them set overnight. You will need some form of reaming tool (eg dremel) to clean out the hosels of the clubs prior to inserting new shafts.

 

[bobmac]

No need to go to the expense of buying a heat gun and I would steer clear of the butane, especially on graphite.
Simply hold the joint over steam* (open kettle or a boiling pan) and the heads will literally fall off after a short time.
*Be careful with steam as it may be hot.

 

[Region3]

Thanks for the replies.

Do you clean out the inside of the hosel (of old epoxy) while it's still hot or wait for it to cool?
Do you need any solvent for the above or just a wire brush?

Should I get epoxy from Gamola etc or will any epoxy do?
Are shafting beads worth using?

Are there any tools that with hindsight are worth the expense because of the hassle they save?

Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want to stuff this up!

Thanks again

 

[fundy]

OK someones got to say it Gary, get a pro to do it for you

 

[Lump]

Thanks for the replies.

Do you clean out the inside of the hosel (of old epoxy) while it's still hot or wait for it to cool?
Do you need any solvent for the above or just a wire brush?

Should I get epoxy from Gamola etc or will any epoxy do?
Are shafting beads worth using?

Are there any tools that with hindsight are worth the expense because of the hassle they save?

Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want to stuff this up!

Thanks again

The shaft should come out pretty clean, as should the hosel. I always wait for it to cool down before having a quick clean up (usually rolled up sandpaper)
Glue wise I use Alraldite rapid epoxy. 10+ shafts changed in drivers and not one flying head.
No tools need really, just make sure when you're pulling the shaft not to twist and make sure your pulling straight out and not on an angle.
Heat wise I use a small butane torch, but don't let the flame touch the club and I keep the flame moving at all times. I've never had any issues doing it this way (but I am careful and not ham fisted)
For the new shaft just give it a quick rasp up before installing and your set.

 

[Region3]

OK someones got to say it Gary, get a pro to do it for you

If it was a one-off I'd agree with you, but I'm going to try different things out so for one it could get expensive getting a pro to do it all, and for two I don't want to be that "pain in the 'arris" that they get fed up of! I have other ways of achieving that.

 

[MadAdey]

No need to go to the expense of buying a heat gun and I would steer clear of the butane, especially on graphite.
Simply hold the joint over steam* (open kettle or a boiling pan) and the heads will literally fall off after a short time.
*Be careful with steam as it may be hot.

Seriously? That is such a better way of doing it as I want to mess about with shafts in my mini driver and using steam is certainly not going to damage anything.

 

[bigslice]

i watched an old black bird :smirk: change an iron shaft for me. then i bought a cheap heat gun glue ferrules epoxy and a wee mini clamp. also bought stuff to regrip my irons. i chopped n changed my shafts to see what suited me, long term. something very satisfying to change my shafts and grips myself

 

[GreiginFife]

Have tried the steam method several times with no success. Later found that the melting point of tbe epoxy was 160°C, and many modern epoxiea are high temperature resistance, have since found a simple £10 electric heat gun from screwfix works perfectly well on medium setting. I also use a linear puller for graphite as twisting is a no-no.

Apart from anything the time steaming would take to raise the metal's temperature would create a risk of burning the kettle element out which has the associated effect of the wife killing me.

 

[Lump]

Have tried the steam method several times with no success. Later found that the melting point of tbe epoxy was 160°C, and many modern epoxiea are high temperature resistance, have since found a simple £10 electric heat gun from screwfix works perfectly well on medium setting. I also use a linear puller for graphite as twisting is a no-no.

Apart from anything the time steaming would take to raise the metal's temperature would create a risk of burning the kettle element out which has the associated effect of the wife killing me.

Factory epoxy is about the only glue you've get to move with steam, any aftermarket epoxy like alraldite needs a lot of heat to get it to release. Heat gun or butane torch is needed!

 

[GreiginFife]

Factory epoxy is about the only glue you've get to move with steam, any aftermarket epoxy like alraldite needs a lot of heat to get it to release. Heat gun or butane torch is needed!

Steam didnt work on my factory MP52 shafts. Did a good job for the ferrules to slide them back but wouldnt budve the heads.
The heat gun is much simpler and doesnt condense your entire room