Benefits and Negatives of specialist/bladed wedges

evemccc

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Looking for advice on wedges..

I've booked a Vokey fitting at St Ives with the aim of figuring out the best loft/bounce/grind combinations for what I'm looking for, which is a Sand Wedge either 54 or 56. I have a Lob wedge with low bounce, that is great for steep bunkers and firm conditions...I don't have the funds to get a new L wedge, and not replacing my current one.

It's a while away (and we're in lockdown..) but having second thoughts now.
I've seen a lot of noise and reviews about the cavity backed Cleveland CBX 2 and the mini-cavity backed Ping Glides...with the idea of help and consistency for 3/4 and full shots...which is what I'm after. I like to do a lot of bump and runs with an 8 iron around green, sometimes use the 60 depending on circumstances of shot required, and so I 'think' I need a Sand wedge for 40-80 yard shots--3/4 and full.

As I use GI irons (and I gather that many or most golfers do), why wouldn't I go with a cavity backed wedge instead of a Vokey or Cleveland Zipcore?

To put it another way, what is the advantage of bladed / specialist wedges?

I gather the disadvantage is that the strike assumes more importance as less forgiving and less consistent for off-centre hits?

Vokey offer lots of grinds...but essentially I'm looking for a high or mid-high bounce SW, so whether that's 54 or 56, I really have only about 3 options of grind/bounce for each loft.

Genuinely looking to understand why Vokey/Zipcore offer more than the cavity backed wedges of Glide or CBX.
 

jim8flog

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The only real advantage of some of the wedges is the availability of grinds to suit your swing.

Different bounce angles you will find on nearly every wedge. E.G. I have Bay Hill, Progen and Makser wedges and all have the bounce on them.

I go with bladed wedges simply because of the availability of a wide range of wedges and am not worried about forgiveness in a wedge.

Never really seen the difference (except for the above) in any makes and mainly go on price. E.G currently in the bag are 52 Bay Hill 54 Cleveland and a 56 Makser goes in when the bunkers are dry. I have very big range of wedges to choose from but the majority are Cleveland because I like the soles on them, they are easy to vary 'bounce' by angle of lean and ball position.
 

evemccc

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Because it's the one true reflection of your ability, and therefore a guide on what is and isn't relevant.

I don't believe you would get any benefit of bladed wedges over the others in your original post.

Okay thanks for your thoughts.


Why woudn't I?
You haven't given your opinion on the benefit of bladed wedges, which is what i asked for. I'm interested to know the pros of them and why so many people use them, as well as any drawbacks.

Asking my handicap is a short-cut answer....but there's zero context. Info regarding how long I've played, or how many rounds, or aims to play in the future is highly relevant to a current handicap.

Ideally I am looking for general opinions on the pros and cons (real and advertised) of bladed wedges.....I will then make a decision on what to trial, and only then, make a decision on what to buy
 

clubchamp98

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Most ams can’t really tell the difference between bladed wedges ( forged usually) or CB.
The biggest thing is the bounce .
Bounce comes into what type of turf you play the softer the ground the bigger the bounce usually.
So on links with very firm turf less bounce.
But it also depends on your angle of attack , how your divots come out. Sweep it off etc.
How soft is the sand in your bunkers?
That’s where a good fitter can sort you out..

I think the reason lots of people play them is there is so much choice in the wedge market.
Also most iron sets only go to PW so the wedge market is huge and like drivers and putters there is not one wedge fits all you have to find the one that suits you.

I have
Callaway jaws.
50 10 bounce
56 14 for bunkers.
60 08 for emergency only.
 

hovis

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Okay thanks for your thoughts.


Why woudn't I?
You haven't given your opinion on the benefit of bladed wedges, which is what i asked for. I'm interested to know the pros of them and why so many people use them, as well as any drawbacks.

Asking my handicap is a short-cut answer....but there's zero context. Info regarding how long I've played, or how many rounds, or aims to play in the future is highly relevant to a current handicap.

Ideally I am looking for general opinions on the pros and cons (real and advertised) of bladed wedges.....I will then make a decision on what to trial, and only then, make a decision on what to buy
If you answered you was a 2 handicap then it would be safe to say you are a good wedge player and can take advantage of the features of a dedicated wedge. However, If I was playing against a 16 handicap golfer and he lay the handle flat, opened the club up and slid his 6 degree bounce under the ball off a tight lie....... Well, I'd just pay him and walk off?
 

Oddsocks

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To the OP, clearly you’ve decided you want bladed wedges so stick the trust in the fitting centre and use what’s right for you.

Personally before buying wedges I would have had a short game wedge lesson and practiced for a month prior to investing in potentially 2/3 wedges at 125+ a pop. It’s pointless being fitted for your current short game only to tweak it later in the year and find they are totally unsuitable.

I was you HC went I started playing bladed wedges but I didn’t look on them in that way, more specialist scoring clubs. I spent a lot of time practicing my short game and only then do I feel I really benefited. It’s interesting you mention about CB wedges as Cleveland are the only CB wedges I’ve seen in multiple lofts and lie options, with as you say the pings almost being a muscle back. I only hit my wedges 3/4 at most but if I was a “ full wedge “ kinda guy I’d at least want to try both to get a measure on both distance control and dispersion.
 
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jim8flog

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If you answered you was a 2 handicap then it would be safe to say you are a good wedge player and can take advantage of the features of a dedicated wedge. However, If I was playing against a 16 handicap golfer and he lay the handle flat, opened the club up and slid his 6 degree bounce under the ball off a tight lie....... Well, I'd just pay him and walk off?

I earnt a lot of money off my short game as as 16 handicapper and would say that my short game was an awful lot better as a 16 handicapper than as a 6 handicapper.

I needed that short game an awful lot more as a 16 handicap player than I did as a 6 handicap player.

In those days I only carried one wedge, a 52 degree, and learnt to play just about every shot in the book with it but I did spend 2-3 hours a day and hit about 1000 balls a week on wedge practice alone.
 
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You're massively, massively over-complicating it in my opinion, and just getting deluded by all the marketing BS.

If you like the look of Vokeys, by all means buy them, they are nice clubs.

With regards to the difference bounces, we live on an island that's a bog in winter, occasionally bone dry in summer, and generally somewhere in between most of the year, mid bounce will suit most players year round.

Surely this is a strong argument for seasonal fittings ;)
 
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Well yeah.
Like when I ordered my low bounce 64 degree in the last heatwave and 5 weeks later when it turned up the course was wet, lush and muddy :ROFLMAO::mad:

Low bounce works beautifully off fairway mat :p
 

evemccc

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I have a low bounce (6) lob wedge. As it's the first and only lob wedge I've used thus far, I have nothing to compare it to. Possibly I *should have bought a higher bounce but as it was a £35 ebay job I cannot complain

My current 54 is 8 bounce...I don't get on with this wedge. Not sure if its the bounce, the grip, the fact its a blade I don't know...
Again a £45 or so ebay buy so I cannot complain.

I had a tendency to sometimes thin these wedges in summer (but also played quite nicely much of the time) but in the wetter October and December months when I last played, I would often chunk it. Now I have read up more I realise the low bounce isn't helping me in wetter / muddy conditions esp. In summer it actually is mostly ok.
How does a high bounce wedge deal with firm conditions? Not well, or not too noticeable?

So, thought process leads me to get a mid to high bounce SW after a fitting. Then I can have a winter wedge and a summer wedge ;)
 

Bunkermagnet

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For me, wedges are very much about how heavy they are in relation to the rest of my irons. I use i20'sirons , and my 3 wedges are all Ping Tour S's as they are so similar in weight to my irons. They are all standard sole to be more versatile.
It something looks good to your eye, it will be easier to hit. I also consider a wedge a club to be used at no more than 75% swing.
 

jim8flog

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For me, wedges are very much about how heavy they are in relation to the rest of my irons. I use i20'sirons , and my 3 wedges are all Ping Tour S's as they are so similar in weight to my irons. They are all standard sole to be more versatile.
It something looks good to your eye, it will be easier to hit. I also consider a wedge a club to be used at no more than 75% swing.

Iron head weights get progressively heavier as the loft increases probably not a lot between a SW and a PW but generally around 50 grammes (2ounces) between a 6 and a SW. The clubs are swing weighted (not the same as weight of the head) to feel the same in the iron set but not the wedges. Ping I20 DO 3-9 and D2 to D6 the wedges (including the S tours).


Whether or not most of us could tell the difference between DO and D6 is another matter.
 

Bunkermagnet

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Iron head weights get progressively heavier as the loft increases probably not a lot between a SW and a PW but generally around 50 grammes (2ounces) between a 6 and a SW. The clubs are swing weighted (not the same as weight of the head) to feel the same in the iron set but not the wedges. Ping I20 DO 3-9 and D2 to D6 the wedges (including the S tours).


Whether or not most of us could tell the difference between DO and D6 is another matter.
Whether we can tell "actuallty" or not isn't really the issue, the issue is that there is something about my Ping wedges that gives me greater confidence than the Mizuno, Vokey or Cleveland wedges I tried.
If they inspire greater confidence, then they are the ones:)
 
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garyinderry

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I have a low bounce (6) lob wedge. As it's the first and only lob wedge I've used thus far, I have nothing to compare it to. Possibly I *should have bought a higher bounce but as it was a £35 ebay job I cannot complain

My current 54 is 8 bounce...I don't get on with this wedge. Not sure if its the bounce, the grip, the fact its a blade I don't know...
Again a £45 or so ebay buy so I cannot complain.

I had a tendency to sometimes thin these wedges in summer (but also played quite nicely much of the time) but in the wetter October and December months when I last played, I would often chunk it. Now I have read up more I realise the low bounce isn't helping me in wetter / muddy conditions esp. In summer it actually is mostly ok.
How does a high bounce wedge deal with firm conditions? Not well, or not too noticeable?

So, thought process leads me to get a mid to high bounce SW after a fitting. Then I can have a winter wedge and a summer wedge ;)



I use high bounce wedges and they are fine on firm turf too.

You just need to avoid laying them open flat off pretty bare lies. You wont do that all that often so it's hardly an issue.
 

PJ87

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I moved from Vokey to Cleveland cbx.. love them, much easier to hit for me

Question id ask is do you play blades in your irons? If you do Vokey would suit if not go cav
 

bobmac

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I've always had blades as I prefer the look.
No idea what bounce, grind or loft they are, I just know how far they go.
Here's a picture of all the wedges I own....

CIMG0759.jpgbb.jpg
 

VVega

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Looking for advice on wedges..

I've booked a Vokey fitting at St Ives with the aim of figuring out the best loft/bounce/grind combinations for what I'm looking for, which is a Sand Wedge either 54 or 56. I have a Lob wedge with low bounce, that is great for steep bunkers and firm conditions...I don't have the funds to get a new L wedge, and not replacing my current one.
It might be useful to check with St Ives how your fitting is organised in order to align with your expectations.

In my experience from 5 years or so ago: you hit shots from the mat on Trackman - mostly full shots. They make recommendations. You then might hit a few shots off the grass in front of the fitting bay (without any data as the Trackman stays where it was).

This is far from the experience of a wedge fitting you might have seen on YT where they go through all the shots around the green, bunkers etc.

One difference between CB vs Vokeys etc that if you are planning to hit full shots with them Vokeys will carry shorter most likely. Conversely, CBs most likely will spin less by a few 1000s revs.

Personally, would advise against a fitting and ask your coach/a pro you trust instead to recommend what you should play.
 

evemccc

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It might be useful to check with St Ives how your fitting is organised in order to align with your expectations.

In my experience from 5 years or so ago: you hit shots from the mat on Trackman - mostly full shots. They make recommendations. You then might hit a few shots off the grass in front of the fitting bay (without any data as the Trackman stays where it was).

This is far from the experience of a wedge fitting you might have seen on YT where they go through all the shots around the green, bunkers etc.

One difference between CB vs Vokeys etc that if you are planning to hit full shots with them Vokeys will carry shorter most likely. Conversely, CBs most likely will spin less by a few 1000s revs.

Personally, would advise against a fitting and ask your coach/a pro you trust instead to recommend what you should play.

That's really useful advice (y)

My current bladed 54 I carry far, far less than I expect, and I'm sure that's likely for the same reason as you state with a Vokey blade, right?
 

jim8flog

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It might be useful to check with St Ives how your fitting is organised in order to align with your expectations.

In my experience from 5 years or so ago: you hit shots from the mat on Trackman - mostly full shots. They make recommendations. You then might hit a few shots off the grass in front of the fitting bay (without any data as the Trackman stays where it was).

This is far from the experience of a wedge fitting you might have seen on YT where they go through all the shots around the green, bunkers etc.

One difference between CB vs Vokeys etc that if you are planning to hit full shots with them Vokeys will carry shorter most likely. Conversely, CBs most likely will spin less by a few 1000s revs.

Personally, would advise against a fitting and ask your coach/a pro you trust instead to recommend what you should play.

Last Titleist wedge fitting day I went to the fitter let me have the wedge of my choice based upon my research which I then took out on to the practice green and practice area including the practice bunker hitting the balls I normally play to see if it was what I wanted.
 
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