A friendly knock with me new clubs

Tashyboy

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When I say new, it was the first time I had hit them. A Persimmon Mcgregor MT ( pro said Jack Nicklaus started with them)and a Ping Zing wood laminate headed club. No comp on so I thought I would have a try with them. I had a natter with the club pro and he went down memory lane about how he used to varnish the woods when he first started as a pro, how he would re string them. Hit it between the screws,Etc etc. Anyway I was a bit perplexed when he said they were both drivers with the Persimmon being the older club. I say perplexed because I thought one was a fairway wood. Turns out I do have a fairway/3 wood a Ping Eye2 . It's just that I left it in me spare bag.
So I got to the first tee dropped it on a pink tee and thought hang on, it was not sat right. Probably needed a blue tee. Anyway I nobbed it about 120 yds. Second tee I nobbed it again but played another off a wooden tee and hit it about 170. Hit the next two and they went ok.
Baghead turned up on our 8th, he had a look at the Ping and preceded to hit it 200 plus. On the ninth he leathered the persimmon a similar distance. On our 12th, it is a 400 yd dogleg right bro ably about 370 yd off the winter tees. All four of us hit our best drives up that hill. However Baghead hit the ping 15 yds further that anyone else. It was a thing of beauty.
Anyway ave had me fun with them and there back in the bag now, for a few minutes, nobbing me ball was fun.
 

Crow

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They sound great, the MacGregor MT, are there any other letters/numbers impressed into the wood on the sole?
Might be interested in buying it if it's for sale....

With the smaller headed woods it's all about getting a centred strike, you can't swing out your shoes and expect to get good distance with an off centre hit like you can with a 460cc driver.
 

Tashyboy

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They sound great, the MacGregor MT, are there any other letters/numbers impressed into the wood on the sole?
Might be interested in buying it if it's for sale....

With the smaller headed woods it's all about getting a centred strike, you can't swing out your shoes and expect to get good distance with an off centre hit like you can with a 460cc driver.

Now then Crow, starting from the the grip,it has what looks like a stags head on the grip with the word CHAMOIS written on the grip which is in line with where you would place your thumbs when gripping the club. On the shaft is a sticker which says TT, True temper Dynamic, MADE IN USA. Six screws ( (3 either side of a red insert). On the sole is a brass or alloy plate held in with four screws. On the plate is stamped MT MacGregor. On the outer edge or toe of the wooden sole is the words OIL HARDENED. On the heel of these ad is a brass ring with a small wood insert which is in line with the shaft. Cannot see any other letters or numbers.
Back in a bit txt from Oz
 

Crow

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Thanks Tashyboy, very nice club but not one I'm on the hunt for.

(The metal ring is the end of the shaft with a wooden plug in it.)
 

Tashyboy

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No probs me man. Let me know what you are after. Am Always in the charity shops.
 

ArnoldArmChewer

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Macgregor MT's were the first clubs I played with 45 years ago, mostly had the same results as Tashyboy but had them for years and really enjoyed them, perversely I then hankered after Ping Eye 2's.

You should keep them in the bag
 

Tashyboy

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don't forget to use a soft compression ball with them Tashy, don't want to break your new clubs

Can remember a discussion on here a couple of months ago where soft balls were discussed when playing with these clubs. I played with the Dt trusoft, lost me ultisoft during last round. 👍
 

patricks148

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Can remember a discussion on here a couple of months ago where soft balls were discussed when playing with these clubs. I played with the Dt trusoft, lost me ultisoft during last round. 👍
as long as its the new version Tash, also Srixon soft feel or Callaway Supersoft is what i use with my Hickorys. one of the wilson balls is really soft to but not sure which,maybe DX3??
you don't want to use a rock or be hitting too often of range mats
 

Leftie

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Recently acquired a (L/H) Ping Zing laminated 7 wood. Thing of beauty and sooo easy to hit. Just a bit short on distance though.

The varnish on the sole plate has yellowed and worn or flaked away in places. Anyone know what type of varnish I need if I try to refurb it?
 

Jacko_G

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Recently acquired a (L/H) Ping Zing laminated 7 wood. Thing of beauty and sooo easy to hit. Just a bit short on distance though.

The varnish on the sole plate has yellowed and worn or flaked away in places. Anyone know what type of varnish I need if I try to refurb it?

Just a standard clear varnish, Ensure it is 100% dry between coats and I would suggest two coats maximum.
 

Crow

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Recently acquired a (L/H) Ping Zing laminated 7 wood. Thing of beauty and sooo easy to hit. Just a bit short on distance though.

The varnish on the sole plate has yellowed and worn or flaked away in places. Anyone know what type of varnish I need if I try to refurb it?

Polyurethane spray cans are very popular these days, the below from the great Dave Wood's website is helpful.

Oil-based poly generally dries to a tougher and glossier finish than a water-based, and with fewer coats. However, there are some drawbacks. Oil-based polyurethane is more susceptible to ambering over time than its water-based counterpart. It will have more fumes and VOCs (volatile organic compounds), which may be a consideration if you have limited ventilation. With benign weather, spraying outdoors may be an option.

Water-based polyurethanes offer crystal clear transparency, great for white inserts and stampings. Though they are not quite as durable and may require more work to apply (sandpaper abraiding) to get an equivalent glossy finish to oil-based versions. There are some oil-modified, water-based products on the market that will work over oil stains and fillers.

Oil based poly can be applied over water based, as long as the water based has fully cured. This can be an attractive combination for woods with white inserts and markings. Water based coatings will not work over oil based.



And if you want to go for a full refurbishment the whole article is well worth reading!

http://www.davewoodarts.com/WoodRestoreProcess.html
 

Leftie

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Thanks for that Crow. Very interesting article.

Don't think that I have the patience or skill to do a full restoration but will tackle the sole plate area.
 
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