Which End of the Bag

[slowhand]

So I was sat here trying to get some work done but my mind kept wandering back to the following:

If you have a set amount of money, say £250, that would get you either a new driver, or new SW & LW, which would you go for, and also which make/model (I appreciate this is somewhat subjective)? I have an M3 driver that I hit with a fade (or a slice!) and wedges that are 2-3 years old (albeit the grooves are OK according to a local pro, which I'm inclined to believe as he didn't use the opening to try and sell me new ones!), so wondering which would bring more improvement. Would I be better off getting a more forgiving driver, and if so, what models should I look at (v. tempted by the King F8 for £169 in AG atm or Clubhouse have the RTX 3 wedges for £79 each)

 

[HomerJSimpson]

So I was sat here trying to get some work done but my mind kept wandering back to the following:

If you have a set amount of money, say £250, that would get you either a new driver, or new SW & LW, which would you go for, and also which make/model (I appreciate this is somewhat subjective)? I have an M3 driver that I hit with a fade (or a slice!) and wedges that are 2-3 years old (albeit the grooves are OK according to a local pro, which I'm inclined to believe as he didn't use the opening to try and sell me new ones!), so wondering which would bring more improvement. Would I be better off getting a more forgiving driver, and if so, what models should I look at (v. tempted by the King F8 for £169 in AG atm or Clubhouse have the RTX 3 wedges for £79 each)

Personally I'd always look towards wedges as they are the scoring clubs. What loft is your PW and what lofts are your wedges. Is there space for a gap wedge. I reckon if you shopped about you could find new models (Ping, Vokey, Cleveland etc) being discounted new and so well inside £250 for two. I would invest the remainder in lessons to sort the slice out

 

[Crow]

You've got enough clubs, save your money and spend it on playing some good courses.

 

[Deleted member 3432]

Spend it a series of lessons, look at it as an investment in your golf game.

A chance to improve all areas of your game, maybe even go as far as doing the Trackman combine test, that will put you under pressure and indentifies the strong and weal parts of your game.

 

[Curls]

Lessons or a nice course would be my choice but if you’ve got to buy a shiney then look at the driver. Your wedges are fine.

Your driver has 9 degrees of loft, that’s low, any spin you’re putting on the ball will be maximised by that. Did you get fitted for this driver?

 

[Backache]

If your current driver does not get you 300 yds of straight carry you probably need a new one.

If your wedges won't consistently stop dead to within tap in range from 100 yds and under off all lies to all greens you probably need new ones.
Hope this helps.

 

[bobmac]

Spend your money on lessons to fix your fade/slice.
Far more rewarding than splashing out all that money on a new driver that will still slice.
And just practice the wedges

 

[Kennysarmy]

So I was sat here trying to get some work done but my mind kept wandering back to the following:

If you have a set amount of money, say £250, that would get you either a new driver, or new SW & LW, which would you go for, and also which make/model (I appreciate this is somewhat subjective)? I have an M3 driver that I hit with a fade (or a slice!) and wedges that are 2-3 years old (albeit the grooves are OK according to a local pro, which I'm inclined to believe as he didn't use the opening to try and sell me new ones!), so wondering which would bring more improvement. Would I be better off getting a more forgiving driver, and if so, what models should I look at (v. tempted by the King F8 for £169 in AG atm or Clubhouse have the RTX 3 wedges for £79 each)

In camera terms it sounds to me like you're suffering from G.A.S.

Gear Acquisition Syndrome.

Why not save the money and as suggested if you want to improve take some lessons and put the rest of the money towards some range balls for sessions over the winter.

 

[Imurg]

Nothing particularly wrong with the driver..very adjustable so that may help a bit
Wedges are probably getting tired but if they work.......
Get a couple of lessons to sort that slice

 

[jim8flog]

As I understand it adding loft to the driver changes the club face angle which then has to be compensated for in the grip.

M4 drivers can now be found new around the £150 mark so get a 10.5 and that leaves enough money for a new wedge as well

The M3 driver probably has a good enough market to maybe go for a second wedge as well.

My mate switched from M3 to M4 and definitely found an improvement.

I went M1 to M4 and ditto

 

[Orikoru]

Buy a G410 SFT driver to fix your slice, it works for me. Sometimes.

 

[GG26]

I was looking at getting a new driver, but have invested in putting lessons instead and now changed my putter.

 

[MadAdey]

Go to custom fitting center and have a session with your driver. Place near me charges $50 and they look at the setup of your current driver and make adjustments to optimize it. People I know that have been there thinks it's the $50 they have spent on golf.

Some have ended up buying a new shaft, some just needed the the loft and weights setting up correctly. But this place has hundreds of shafts so you can try different weights, flexes etc. Even getting a new shaft is a lot cheaper than getting a new driver.

 

[MadAdey]

A reply more in line with your opening post would be not to buy a new driver. Any driver you get is not really going to be any better than the one you have, technology has not changed that much since the M3 was released. Ask any golf coach and he would tell you to invest in lessons and fix any swing faults before buying a new driver thinking that will help.

Your bag has modern clubs so anything you buy will not really help you play better.

 

[HomerJSimpson]

Definitely think a lesson or two solves the driver issue. The M3 was a decent driver when released. I would stay away from those that assist players with a fade/slice (draw bias etc) as in my opinion it is only masking the issue