Question for anybody who knows about electrics????

Smiffy

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Just bought a new oven. It's rated at 2.2kw. Comes without a plug/wiring and instruction booklet says it "must be hardwired".
I'm hopeless at electrics, but reading various google results it states that as it's under 3kw I can just wire it up, whack a 13amp plug on the end and plug it into a "normal" socket (of which there is one spare in the unit next to where the cooker is going and it's where our current oven is plugged in to).
I don't want to blow myself up a few days before Christmas so who's right???
(I do know how to wire a plug correctly by the way, I'm not that useless....;););))
TIA
 
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Dibby

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Thanks Bob. That's what I thought.
Our old oven had the wiring and a 3 pin plug already fitted, but this new one just comes with a connector block on the back.
I'll give it a bash
;)

You'll be fine, it will draw about 10A, if it's a single socket no worries as they're rated to 13A, if a double keep in mind most double sockets are rated for 20A so don't plug in something that needs a lot of power in the other side e.g kettle, iron, toaster, washing machine, dryer, heater etc...
 

grumpyjock

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Its all about diversification, is the socket on a ring main or just a single spur. IE which circuit breaker does it trip? 32amp is ring main 16amp is single spur. Most hard wired cooker units are to a dedicated 32amp circuit breaker. this is normally a 4mm cable as a simple 1.5 or 2.5 flex will not take the load for a considerable time. These are only limited to a quick burst of full power.
Hope this helps or confuses you even more.
 

Tashyboy

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Smiffy, was the old oven hard wired. If the old oven has to be removed from a hard wire by An elect can he not plug the new one in.
 

Fade and Die

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Just bought a new oven. It's rated at 2.2kw. Comes without a plug/wiring and instruction booklet says it "must be hardwired".
I'm hopeless at electrics, but reading various google results it states that as it's under 3kw I can just wire it up, whack a 13amp plug on the end and plug it into a "normal" socket (of which there is one spare in the unit next to where the cooker is going and it's where our current oven is plugged in to).
I don't want to blow myself up a few days before Christmas so who's right???
(I do know how to wire a plug correctly by the way, I'm not that useless....;););))
TIA

If the oven was meant to be plugged in, it would have come with a plug fitted. But at 2.2kw you should be ok just wiring a 1.5mm 3 core flex into a plug.
 

williamalex1

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Hard wired means permanently connected to an outlet, like a switched fused spur, like below. But as Fade said a single socket and a 13 amp plugtop should be fine.
 

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Fade and Die

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Not necessarily. Very few ovens, even small single units, come with flex or plug these days. Just another cost saving on the part of the manufacturer.

Im not so sure, normally if they are ok for the ring main they will have a flex fitted, the instructions said to hard wire the unit, my advice to Smiffy was based on the maximum load of 2.2kw. That normally includes the grill element too.
Guess he will find out on Christmas Day when the oven has been on continuously for 4 hours!?
 

GreiginFife

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Im not so sure, normally if they are ok for the ring main they will have a flex fitted, the instructions said to hard wire the unit, my advice to Smiffy was based on the maximum load of 2.2kw. That normally includes the grill element too.
Guess he will find out on Christmas Day when the oven has been on continuously for 4 hours!?

No doubt there will be some that do come with flex. Both our old single oven (Samsung) and the inlaws new single (NEFF) came with no flex but instruction to wire either to a 13A plug of fused spur.
My mate is a Lean manager for Beko and they stopped supplying with flex and/or plug about 2 years ago, saving millions per year.

But you are spot on, Smiffy will find out if his turkey is raw on Christmas day (that is not a euphemism ?).
 

Smiffy

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Smiffy, was the old oven hard wired. If the old oven has to be removed from a hard wire by An elect can he not plug the new one in.
It wasn't mate. Just plugged into a standard socket inside the cabinet next door. I'm confident that the new one will be okay done the same way. Now the green stripey wire is the live one isn't it???
????????
 

Fade and Die

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No doubt there will be some that do come with flex. Both our old single oven (Samsung) and the inlaws new single (NEFF) came with no flex but instruction to wire either to a 13A plug of fused spur.
My mate is a Lean manager for Beko and they stopped supplying with flex and/or plug about 2 years ago, saving millions per year.

But you are spot on, Smiffy will find out if his turkey is raw on Christmas day (that is not a euphemism ?).

Which will come in handy for the compensation for all the house fires their appliances cause!?? (allegedly)
 

jim8flog

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Just bought a new oven. It's rated at 2.2kw. Comes without a plug/wiring and instruction booklet says it "must be hardwired".
I'm hopeless at electrics, but reading various google results it states that as it's under 3kw I can just wire it up, whack a 13amp plug on the end and plug it into a "normal" socket (of which there is one spare in the unit next to where the cooker is going and it's where our current oven is plugged in to).
I don't want to blow myself up a few days before Christmas so who's right???
(I do know how to wire a plug correctly by the way, I'm not that useless....;););))
TIA

The reason behind hard wiring is that it will be a double pole switch. I.e. when the electric switch is turned off it switches off both the live and the neutral. With a 13 amp plug socket you are only turning off the live.

In a house there is normally a 45 amp or so separate single feed feed to kitchens for cookers. Do you not have one?
 

USER1999

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The reason behind hard wiring is that it will be a double pole switch. I.e. when the electric switch is turned off it switches off both the live and the neutral. With a 13 amp plug socket you are only turning off the live.?

Not necessarily, some switches are two pole, as G mark and SQM require this for sockets sold into the gulf. A lot of these are also sold in the UK, it depends on the manufacturer.
 
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