Mawgan
Club Champion
I've noticed in several signature 'what's in the bags' a reference to pured shafts.
What does it mean, please?
What does it mean, please?
Pured...
- Thread starter Mawgan
- Start date
USER1999
Grand Slam Winner
A shaft will have a spine from when it is made. For a steel shaft, it will be where it was rolled into a tube and welded together, and for a graphite shaft it will be due to an uneven wrap, and may have up to 3 spines running down it. As you rotate the shaft, it will get stiffer, and then more bendy depending on the position of the spine.
A pured shaft is when the position of the spine is determined using a special machine, and then assembled into the head in such an orientation as to give the designed shaft characteristics.
You would think everyone would do this, but it is time consuming and expensive, so they don't. For 7i and down, it near as damn makes no difference. For drivers, the difference could be massive. It doesn't matter however, if you buy the one you try, as you wouldn't buy it if you couldn't hit it. If you try it, and then buy one from the internet, it may not be the same as the one you tried.
A pured shaft is when the position of the spine is determined using a special machine, and then assembled into the head in such an orientation as to give the designed shaft characteristics.
You would think everyone would do this, but it is time consuming and expensive, so they don't. For 7i and down, it near as damn makes no difference. For drivers, the difference could be massive. It doesn't matter however, if you buy the one you try, as you wouldn't buy it if you couldn't hit it. If you try it, and then buy one from the internet, it may not be the same as the one you tried.
USER1999
Grand Slam Winner
My driver wasn't pured, but the spine was optimised by the fitter. What he did, was to put the fat end of the shaft between two sets of bearings about 12" apart, and then using another set of bearings near the tip, bend the shaft slightly and rotate it. You can feel it getting harder to turn, up to a point at which it gets easier again. This enables you to find the spine, and when you align the shaft in the club head, the spine should be either at the top or bottom of the shaft, when looking down on it from address.
This is why shafts are best fitted by a professional club fitter.
You can also 'step' a shaft when you fit it, to make it stiffer or softer, according to how much you cut off the tip, and how much off the butt. All shafts are sold long, to enable you to do this (and also to enable you to fit longer than standard lengths to accomodate tall people).
This is why shafts are best fitted by a professional club fitter.
You can also 'step' a shaft when you fit it, to make it stiffer or softer, according to how much you cut off the tip, and how much off the butt. All shafts are sold long, to enable you to do this (and also to enable you to fit longer than standard lengths to accomodate tall people).
andiritchie
Journeyman Pro
http://sstpure.com/
I had my Cobra 8.5 pured when i had it fitted,the bought the same driver but 9.5 un-pured and it didnt work the same,so payed for it to be pured and it feels perfect,there is a massive differnce in some cases,
Most manufactuers fit the shafts logo down Aldila etc,to give a clean look at address but who knows they are in the right position.
The shafts on both my drivers the Fujikura logo is in differnt positions with one being on top which looks like the shaft has been lazily put together but it works
I had my Cobra 8.5 pured when i had it fitted,the bought the same driver but 9.5 un-pured and it didnt work the same,so payed for it to be pured and it feels perfect,there is a massive differnce in some cases,
Most manufactuers fit the shafts logo down Aldila etc,to give a clean look at address but who knows they are in the right position.
The shafts on both my drivers the Fujikura logo is in differnt positions with one being on top which looks like the shaft has been lazily put together but it works
Mawgan
Club Champion
Well, I go to the foot of our stairs...
Thanks very much for the v. informative reply. I suppose, therefore, that in addition to custom fitting, it would be advisable to have the longer clubs 'pured' as well. Does the process apply as much to steel shafts as to graphite? You say that it is expensive - can you give an example?
I'm not sure that I wish to continue playing with impure clubs on moral grounds...
Thanks very much for the v. informative reply. I suppose, therefore, that in addition to custom fitting, it would be advisable to have the longer clubs 'pured' as well. Does the process apply as much to steel shafts as to graphite? You say that it is expensive - can you give an example?
I'm not sure that I wish to continue playing with impure clubs on moral grounds...
USER1999
Grand Slam Winner
Yes, it does apply to steel, but because they only have one spine, they are less affected by it (you would be unlucky to find the spine at 3 o clock or 9 o clock, where it would make a difference), and also because the shafts are shorter.
The main thing with this is, can you hit all your current clubs? Do you have the same shafts in your 3/5 wood, and find one easier to hit than the other, Do you struggle with your driver, when your mate has the same one, and you can rip his? Is there one iron in your bag you just can't hit (3i excepted)?
If none of the above apply, why bother?
The main thing with this is, can you hit all your current clubs? Do you have the same shafts in your 3/5 wood, and find one easier to hit than the other, Do you struggle with your driver, when your mate has the same one, and you can rip his? Is there one iron in your bag you just can't hit (3i excepted)?
If none of the above apply, why bother?
