Low spin driver heads.

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Oddsocks

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Ever since my fitting in 2012, I’ve always been someone that hits from a lower tee on a level’ish angle of attack which promotes a slightly higher flight and almost a tad of ballooning. My typical flight is one that peaks and then drops meaning I sacrifice roll out distance, this has become more evident in recent k/o matches where older shorter hitters have run their drives level due to gain roll out from a more rainbow shaped flight. In the past I have use motore f1 shafts in driver and fairway just for the lower spin despite my s/speed not being stupid fast and a relatively smooth tempo, it was solely to try and bring launch and spin down to get a little more roll out.

Has anyone he suffered with similar problems and subsequently moved to a lower spin head, and if so I’d be interested to hear your experience.

I’m currently using an f8 standard driver which only has the weight option in the rear of the head to increased flight, have considered trying an f9 head which allows you to run the heavier weight closer to the face to reduce launch and spin.
 

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Ever since my fitting in 2012, I’ve always been someone that hits from a lower tee on a level’ish angle of attack which promotes a slightly higher flight and almost a tad of ballooning. My typical flight is one that peaks and then drops meaning I sacrifice roll out distance, this has become more evident in recent k/o matches where older shorter hitters have run their drives level due to gain roll out from a more rainbow shaped flight. In the past I have use motore f1 shafts in driver and fairway just for the lower spin despite my s/speed not being stupid fast and a relatively smooth tempo, it was solely to try and bring launch and spin down to get a little more roll out.

Has anyone he suffered with similar problems and subsequently moved to a lower spin head, and if so I’d be interested to hear your experience.

I’m currently using an f8 standard driver which only has the weight option in the rear of the head to increased flight, have considered trying an f9 head which allows you to run the heavier weight closer to the face to reduce launch and spin.
Seems like a session on a launch monitor would help.
Presuming that your current head is adjustable, you could simply reduce the loft a bit for winter use. That might save the more disruptive alternative of changing your setup and swing.
 
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Oddsocks

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The current head only has a draw bias heel weight and flight increase rear of head weight.

This gives me limited options.

High flight - straight. (Via head weights / neutral shaft adaptor settings)

High flight - slight draw ( via head weights and draw shaft adaptor

Mid/high flight - slight draw (via head weights)

Mid/high flight - string draw (via head weights and draw setting in shaft adaptor)

I can crank the driver loft down lower but while the initial launch is lower, I still get ballooning flight with next to no roll out. Long term the better option is to address the swing fault… but …. It’s the same fault I’ve been fighting for 10yrs so it’s not a quick fix.
 

Lump

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You may be hard pushed to fix this with just a head and shaft.
If your getting a ramping flight your AoA must be negative.
You may be better served getting on a sim for an hr seeing if you can alter your AoA to drop spin, or if you need to search for a spin killer setup.
 
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Oddsocks

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My AoA has always been pretty much 0* with a driver which is why I hit my old persimmons well, I find when I hit up I lose everything high right with a big push fade.

I was contemplating a low spin head and lifting up if I couldn’t get the launch right but was solid on ball flight, IE a low spinning 12* instead of a high spin 9* as an example.
 

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My AoA has always been pretty much 0* with a driver which is why I hit my old persimmons well, I find when I hit up I lose everything high right with a big push fade.

I was contemplating a low spin head and lifting up if I couldn’t get the launch right but was solid on ball flight, IE a low spinning 12* instead of a high spin 9* as an example.
The push fade is pretty normal when trying to change the AoA to positive.

A neutral AoA doesn’t normally give a ramping flight. Unless your driver is fit wildly wrong.
How does you ball launch?

Plenty of low spin options about, the only issue is, they are normally unforgiving due to how they are weighted.
 

mikejohnchapman

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I must admit I was sceptical about spin rates from drivers and also about adjusting loft as it causes other problems. However, I did get to spend some time on a Trackman with several different heads using the same shaft and the difference was quite marked. The lowest spin was a TM Sim1 head, I also tried a Titleist and Callaway head but the spin was over 1000 rpm more. The TM launched higher but carried further due to the reduced spin. I'm sure that the combination of the correct shaft with a specific head would make a big difference but I was interested to see what difference changing one component was.
 
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Oddsocks

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The push fade is pretty normal when trying to change the AoA to positive.

A neutral AoA doesn’t normally give a ramping flight. Unless your driver is fit wildly wrong.
How does you ball launch?

Plenty of low spin options about, the only issue is, they are normally unforgiving due to how they are weighted.
It’s a quick climbing flight that generally peaks and drops pretty vertical. In my fitting I was told that the track man numbers shows a flat of sometimes negative AoA which is a bit weird as a generally hold back on the right side due to a left knee injury, my general flight with all clubs is higher than average.

I was fitted for the AMP with Rip65 shaft originally as the head was lower spinning compared with others and it worked even better with the low spinning F1 shaft.

I have been working on trying to get more transition on the down swing and when it works I easily gain 30-40 yards but with the ongoing knee issue it’s a constant work in progress.
 
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Oddsocks

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I must admit I was sceptical about spin rates from drivers and also about adjusting loft as it causes other problems. However, I did get to spend some time on a Trackman with several different heads using the same shaft and the difference was quite marked. The lowest spin was a TM Sim1 head, I also tried a Titleist and Callaway head but the spin was over 1000 rpm more. The TM launched higher but carried further due to the reduced spin. I'm sure that the combination of the correct shaft with a specific head would make a big difference but I was interested to see what difference changing one component was.
I went from the cobra via a 913d3, xr16 and cally gbbdbd (double diamond) the 913d3 was lower spin but the smaller head wasn’t that forgiving, the XR16 spun like hell no matter what shaft I stuck in it and the double diamond was about as forgiving as a mother inlaw.
 
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I would have thought that the shaft would have much more effect on the flight than any head. I, too, hit the ball too high with too much spin. Before I changed to a senior Shaft the one that worked by far the best for me was the Matrix Black Tie. This gave by far less spin than the many other shafts I went through. It is a shaft with a very stiff tip, even in regular flex. If they made one in a senior flex I'd buy one. They can be picked up quite cheaply on EB
 
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Oddsocks

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I’ve got a black tie in the bag at present but in a 50g stiff, this was following a vid I watched from crossfield about trying lighter shafts. I’ve also got a 65g nv (forgot colour) which is low spin. I’m just about to try a 60g regular rogue which is also tip stiff low spin.

I have a motore f1 65g stuff somewhere bud truth be told my s/speed isn’t where it was in 2012-2015 when I was playing this shaft and know for a fact I won’t be able to load it with my swing in it’s current state.
 

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According to Tom Wishon, and I think he knows a bit about it, the #1 way to change spin and trajectory is to change the loft and/or the clubhead.
#2 is to change the ball
#3 then you worry about the shaft.
Having listened to many TXG live streams, time and again people ask about low spin shafts, high spin shafts etc etc and the answer is always...Look to the head and loft. Get the loft you need withe CoG closer to the face.
That reduces spin and lowers flight.
Then pick the right ball..if you spin it too much try the AVX or similar, of you don't spin it enough try the ProV1x or Mizzy RBTourX.
You can spend a lot of time and money messing with different shafts and not get any change.
Try a 9° Mavrik Sub Zero head and the AVX...
 

Bratty

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According to Tom Wishon, and I think he knows a bit about it, the #1 way to change spin and trajectory is to change the loft and/or the clubhead.
#2 is to change the ball
#3 then you worry about the shaft.
Having listened to many TXG live streams, time and again people ask about low spin shafts, high spin shafts etc etc and the answer is always...Look to the head and loft. Get the loft you need withe CoG closer to the face.
That reduces spin and lowers flight.
Then pick the right ball..if you spin it too much try the AVX or similar, of you don't spin it enough try the ProV1x or Mizzy RBTourX.
You can spend a lot of time and money messing with different shafts and not get any change.
Try a 9° Mavrik Sub Zero head and the AVX...
I have found the AVX to be a low spinning ball, and I'm playing better golf with it when compared to Taylormade V3 or Mizuno balls.
 
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Oddsocks

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According to Tom Wishon, and I think he knows a bit about it, the #1 way to change spin and trajectory is to change the loft and/or the clubhead.
#2 is to change the ball
#3 then you worry about the shaft.
Having listened to many TXG live streams, time and again people ask about low spin shafts, high spin shafts etc etc and the answer is always...Look to the head and loft. Get the loft you need withe CoG closer to the face.
That reduces spin and lowers flight.
Then pick the right ball..if you spin it too much try the AVX or similar, of you don't spin it enough try the ProV1x or Mizzy RBTourX.
You can spend a lot of time and money messing with different shafts and not get any change.
Try a 9° Mavrik Sub Zero head and the AVX...
I’m sure I read somewhere that if you have a low angel or attack or even negative, adding loft can reduce spin and ballooning.

I’m going to spend a bit of time at the range when my back eases playing with a few shaft options b2b and see where it gets me. My normal club builder closes shop on the 4th Jan and I’m tempted to get him to pop a cobra adaptor of the f1 I have in stock 😂

There is a part of me that feels the head is the higher spinning cobra f8 so I am on the look out for one where I can move the cg closer to the face but I won’t be paying silly money on an experiment.
 
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Oddsocks

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I have found the AVX to be a low spinning ball, and I'm playing better golf with it when compared to Taylormade V3 or Mizuno balls.
interesting. I’ve never noticed the ball making much difference other that prov’s exaggerating a bad shot, ie a strong fade becoming a slice.
 

BiMGuy

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interesting. I’ve never noticed the ball making much difference other that prov’s exaggerating a bad shot, ie a strong fade becoming a slice.
Balls make more of a difference with irons and wedges than with a driver.

That said, the AVX is low spinning.

Try a TM SIM with an extra weight in the front slot. But be careful as this can reduce MOI a bit.
 
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Oddsocks

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Balls make more of a difference with irons and wedges than with a driver.

That said, the AVX is low spinning.

Try a TM SIM with an extra weight in the front slot. But be careful as this can reduce MOI a bit.
Thanks BiM, being honest I don’t want to go splashing big cash on a new driver as I’ve only got 6 - 10 months golf before a forced 6 months out. The point of the thread was to see if people have swapped from a high-med spin head down to a low spin head and if it made that much difference.

Obviously strike makes a huge difference as does AoA,but I was interested to hear what “ club “ golfers had found.

Crossfield reviewed a stock f8 (same spec as mine) against the lower spin f8+ and only dropped the RPM by 300, I think it was 2600 on the standard verses 2300 on the plus model, approx 10%. This was in stock set up prior to moving weights to min spin settings.

If I base mine on spinning around 3000-3500, the same margin in stock setting would be approx 400rpm, maybe setting up to the minimum spin could bring it another 5%?

But is it enough?
 

BiMGuy

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Thanks BiM, being honest I don’t want to go splashing big cash on a new driver as I’ve only got 6 - 10 months golf before a forced 6 months out. The point of the thread was to see if people have swapped from a high-med spin head down to a low spin head and if it made that much difference.

Obviously strike makes a huge difference as does AoA,but I was interested to hear what “ club “ golfers had found.

Crossfield reviewed a stock f8 (same spec as mine) against the lower spin f8+ and only dropped the RPM by 300, I think it was 2600 on the standard verses 2300 on the plus model, approx 10%. This was in stock set up prior to moving weights to min spin settings.

If I base mine on spinning around 3000-3500, the same margin in stock setting would be approx 400rpm, maybe setting up to the minimum spin could bring it another 5%?

But is it enough?
My SIM with riptide shaft was in the region of 700 rpm lower spin than the Ping G series it replaced. This got me down into the 2500/2700 range. Carry and roll out are much improved. My strike and swing path have improved recently so I have been able to knock the loft down a touch which has helped a bit too.
 
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