Driving distances

A lighter ball won't go further, it'll go shorter; tests haev already been done for a 1.62 and a 1.3 ounce ball. The lighter ball may leave the clubhead faster, but a net increase in the effect of lift and drag will lead to a higher and shorter trajectory for drives over 170 odd yards.

For a driver (square on impacts and zero loft, though 10 degree loft of a driver gives negligible error with the forumula)

v= U x (1 + e / 1 +(m/M))
where v = velocity of ball immediately after impact
U=Velocity of clubhead immediately before impact
m=Mass of the ball
M=Mass of clubhead
e=COR

From Search for the perfect swing

The dimples are all about affecting lift, drag, yaw, seperation points...

45 degree lauch angle may be applicable to a vacuum, but it's not appropriate for golf where the ball is spinning.

The combination of lauch, spin, speed is how custom fitting can help you.
 
Not listening, Not listening, Not listening, Not listening, Not listening, Not listening, Not listening...........

:whistle:
Yeah I know bluewolf... I've just talked myself out of getting any new kit until i've learned to play better.... well learned to play really LOL



All TM seemed to do last year was to paint their drivers white! I am no physician but my guess is that this dosnt increase distance. So I reckon they have reached a point where they cant get any more (currently) out of a driver distance wise.
Did they have go further stripes on :cool:



^
^
^

Crikey,..... I'd give you credit for that if I didn't have Google :whistle:

Nice post though. (although it's flawed as a ball weighs more than 20g)


For a further 10 points... what does it mean? ....buy the new club YES/NO?

YES


Hobbit,there are lots of golfers in the Mug or Tart category.
The Mugs will buy anything they believe will improve there game,and usually believe all the sales talk,whether theres any truth in it or not.
The Tarts just want to have the latest equipment,and usually base there choices on Brand snobbery and cost.
Both these types of golfers would get much better results (distance) from having a lesson or two,and putting some time in at the range/course.
Me,i'm too poor and tight fisted to fall into any of the above Categories.

I'm a yorkshire man, i'm still playing with cast iron heads and wooden shafts, as well as wood drivers, i'll update when the price comes down



A lighter ball won't go further, it'll go shorter; tests haev already been done for a 1.62 and a 1.3 ounce ball. The lighter ball may leave the clubhead faster, but a net increase in the effect of lift and drag will lead to a higher and shorter trajectory for drives over 170 odd yards.

For a driver (square on impacts and zero loft, though 10 degree loft of a driver gives negligible error with the forumula)

v= U x (1 + e / 1 +(m/M))
where v = velocity of ball immediately after impact
U=Velocity of clubhead immediately before impact
m=Mass of the ball
M=Mass of clubhead
e=COR

From Search for the perfect swing

The dimples are all about affecting lift, drag, yaw, seperation points...

45 degree lauch angle may be applicable to a vacuum, but it's not appropriate for golf where the ball is spinning.

The combination of lauch, spin, speed is how custom fitting can help you.

Or how about if D x f >= C then p + N == M
D=Desire
f=Funding
C=Cost
p=Purchase
N=now
M=Must

Notice the capitalisation to empasise the more weighty items LOL.

If you happy with what you've got, but can't birdie every hole, then spend on lessons, if you can birdie every hole, but the longer drive might mean eagles on the par 5's then go for it.
 
A lighter ball won't go further, it'll go shorter; tests haev already been done for a 1.62 and a 1.3 ounce ball. The lighter ball may leave the clubhead faster, but a net increase in the effect of lift and drag will lead to a higher and shorter trajectory for drives over 170 odd yards.

For a driver (square on impacts and zero loft, though 10 degree loft of a driver gives negligible error with the forumula)

v= U x (1 + e / 1 +(m/M))
where v = velocity of ball immediately after impact
U=Velocity of clubhead immediately before impact
m=Mass of the ball
M=Mass of clubhead
e=COR

From Search for the perfect swing

The dimples are all about affecting lift, drag, yaw, seperation points...

45 degree lauch angle may be applicable to a vacuum, but it's not appropriate for golf where the ball is spinning.

The combination of lauch, spin, speed is how custom fitting can help you.


I thought that this was a golf forum!!

That's far too complicated for my pea!
 
I think 10yds is worth it for 99% of all golfers (if it's truly measurable), even more so for the shorter hitters. Likewise the extra forgiveness. Development of the ball also means optimising clubs, if you have a ball the needs to be launched high for maximun ballflight then you need to make a club that will do that.

Clearly I am a lone voice. Do I really want an extra 10 yards even though I'm a relatively short hitter. i am notoriously inconsistant anyway off the tee and so the game plan of not going for anything over say 420 ayrds an using my shots has to be a logical way of playing, certainly competitively. I can go for it if I want but the risks of hitting 5 wood or hybrid mean I take out the safe bogey and bring in double or worse. It takes the pressure off having to nail the drive and so even if I do go left or right, knowing I was laying up makes no difference as long as I can find it and progress it a sensible distance
 
Clearly I am a lone voice. Do I really want an extra 10 yards even though I'm a relatively short hitter. i am notoriously inconsistant anyway off the tee and so the game plan of not going for anything over say 420 ayrds an using my shots has to be a logical way of playing, certainly competitively. I can go for it if I want but the risks of hitting 5 wood or hybrid mean I take out the safe bogey and bring in double or worse. It takes the pressure off having to nail the drive and so even if I do go left or right, knowing I was laying up makes no difference as long as I can find it and progress it a sensible distance

No, you're not the lone voice. Plenty of players will look at a hole and decide to play safe.
 
Clearly I am a lone voice. Do I really want an extra 10 yards even though I'm a relatively short hitter. i am notoriously inconsistant anyway off the tee and so the game plan of not going for anything over say 420 ayrds an using my shots has to be a logical way of playing, certainly competitively. I can go for it if I want but the risks of hitting 5 wood or hybrid mean I take out the safe bogey and bring in double or worse. It takes the pressure off having to nail the drive and so even if I do go left or right, knowing I was laying up makes no difference as long as I can find it and progress it a sensible distance

But at that point you are accepting your handicap. If you do this, and use your shots, you are limited to shooting your handicap' unless you hole some putts. Me, I'd rather go for it, and run the risk of going low.
 
Clearly I am a lone voice. Do I really want an extra 10 yards even though I'm a relatively short hitter. i am notoriously inconsistant anyway off the tee and so the game plan of not going for anything over say 420 ayrds an using my shots has to be a logical way of playing, certainly competitively. I can go for it if I want but the risks of hitting 5 wood or hybrid mean I take out the safe bogey and bring in double or worse. It takes the pressure off having to nail the drive and so even if I do go left or right, knowing I was laying up makes no difference as long as I can find it and progress it a sensible distance

But at that point you are accepting your handicap. If you do this, and use your shots, you are limited to shooting your handicap' unless you hole some putts. Me, I'd rather go for it, and run the risk of going low.

Granted but as a mid-handicapper with a rubbish short game surely that has to be the idea. Once I get the short game back to any kind of degree that I can rely on then of course I'll attack more but all the time I stand ther with a chipping equivalent of the yips and seeing nothing but a fat or thin about to happen, its about playing within limitations and expectations. Once I have my short game lesson (note to self get it booked tomorrow!!!) then the quality of my ball striking and the way I'm swinging indicates a definite glass half full 2012
 
I personally don't see the point in myself getting an extra 10yards on my drive. It will only mean 10yds further into the trees, to look for my ball.:fore:
 
I personally don't see the point in myself getting an extra 10yards on my drive. It will only mean 10yds further into the trees, to look for my ball.:fore:

Perhaps by accident you're touched on something that is actually quite relevant. I chaired comps for a number of years and one of the stats that came up every year was the two periods in the year when the lowest scores were posted, autumn and spring. The weather, in the main, wasn't too bad for golf. The ground wasn't too soft and there was just enough run to add distance but the ground wasn't too firey for the ball to run into deep rough.

So yes, you're right. Extra distance for the vast majority of golfers isn't always the way to better scores.
 
Compare it to new cars.Oo new driver get 10 yards more on your drive. When most people need to get consistent particularly mid to short game.And cars new feature auto open boot you've still got to put your bags down to get out the key to unlock the carr and put you stuff in. And the electric boot is slower. But people like gimmiks to show the jonses who's best.Now if somone sold a driver that stated you get 200-250 yards every shot and we guarantee it no slice then that to me is better than 320yards and probable slice.
 
Deep breathe

Force Q. A 6'1" man swings a 48" golf club weighing 275 grams and launches a 20 gram ball at a 45 degree angle. How many miles per hour must the man swing the golf club for the ball to travel 400 yards? How many more yards will each additional 5 mph of club speed generate?

A. 1mph = 0.447m/s and 1 yard = 0.914m.

The ball is set into projectile motion. The range of projectile is given by the formula - R = u²Sin2q /g where u is the initial velocity of the projectile, q is the angle with which the body is projected and g is the acceleration due to gravity and R is the range or the horizontal distance that the projectile covers.

Now, R = 400 x 0.914 = 365.6m and angle = 45 degrees.

Substituting, we get, u = 59.8m/s. This will be the initial velocity of the ball.

When the golf club comes and strikes the ball, it will transfer some of its kinetic energy to the stationary ball. If we assume that an elastic collision takes place, then since the ball is 13.75 times lighter than the golf club, it will transfer 13.75% of its kinetic energy to the ball (this can be shown mathematically).
Thus, (13.75/100)(1/2 m1 v² ) = 1/2 m2 u² where m1 is the mass of the golf club and m2 is the mass of the golf ball and v is velocity with which the club strikes the ball and u is the initial velocity of the ball. Calculating we get, v = 43.1m/s. So this is the velocity with which the golf club will have to be swung.

Now, since the golf club is swung in a circular movement, the taller the golfer and longer the club, the more will be the radius of the circle. From, v = ω r. So for a particular velocity v, the more the value of r, the less will be the value of ω or the angular velocity or the golfer will have to swing his arms more slowly.

For calculating the increase in the range, for each 5mph increase in the club speed, we will first have to calculate the increase in the initial velocity of the ball using the energy relation and then find the new range and the increase in range.



i agree with this, hit & hope ,,,you truly are what i want to be intellectually clever ,,brilliant (the reason being it always wins a argument)
 
Top