Adjustable Drivers......Poll.

Drivers that don't sit closed, sit open.

I want one that sits square. Point it in the right direction, hit it square, bingo.

The only way to get a square sitting driver is to buy an adjustable one, and set it up square. tThen leave it alone.

Rotating the club face with your hands at address changes the loft, and is inconsistent.

this is interesting, as i have a 09 tm burner and i find i slighly open the face at address for the straighter ball flight, leaving the club in what should be a neutral position always gives me a draw.
 
With the new R11 driver can the loft be adjusted seperately to the open / closed adjustment like the Titelist 910 can be adjusted or is it the same as the R9 where if you adjust the open / closed position that will automatically adjust the loft?
 
I'm a little anti with the whole club adjustment issue. I believe that if you have a weakness in your driving that you want to cure then have a lesson and go down the range and sort it. Not adjust the club to cancel out your bad slice. Then what happens when you need to draw and fade the ball at will through the round? Do you have to adjust your club again and again to get the right shot shape for the hole?
I want to be able to do that simply through adjusting my technique and not my club. Are you allowed to change the setting of the club during a round??

I don't know if I'm missing the point here with these adjustable drivers but for me they are simply a quick fix to a bad drive shape that you want to cancel out.

Get down the range, work the problems out and learn to hit it properly...!! :) :o :D

I agree, too many guys using these to try and cure a bad swing.

I have the Mizuno MP600 which is adjustable but I have it set to Neutral. If I want to hit a draw or fade I adjust my swing, though I still have a bit of trouble hitting a fade.
I'm thinking of getting the MP630 fast track and that has the ability to move the weights right forward for a low flight or back for high would prob use that. Though I probably don't have to as I can hit my current driver high or low. :p
 
With the new R11 driver can the loft be adjusted seperately to the open / closed adjustment like the Titelist 910 can be adjusted or is it the same as the R9 where if you adjust the open / closed position that will automatically adjust the loft?

You can adjust the open/closed position, the loft and the heel/toe weight all separately. So in answer to your question, you can adjust it separately.

Oddsocks, in reply to your comment about my alignment/swing, even though I had "open" shoulders, even after I corrected it, the fitters still left the club in the "closed" position because of my out/in swing path. They knew my story (i.e. just getting back into the game, looking to get lessons very soon and wanting to drop my handicap down to low teens/single figs.) and said that the way they've set the driver up is perfect for now, but once I start having lessons and my swing "matures", I may want to set the face back to neutral depending on the swing that I end up with. In that respect it's a VERY versatile club that can adjust/grow as my game grows/matures.

If, for instance, I'd bought a "draw" driver to compensate my swing, if my swing changed as I have lessons, that may not have been any good for me and will have been rendered useless. With the R11 I can take a minute or so to adjust the head back to neutral, and I'm good to go.

To me, I see this as a bonus. It's obiously not going to be for everyone, but the R11 is certainly a driver that will suit my game, and I can't wait to get it.

It will also be interesting to see if the setup they gave me is still valid because I've been working hard to try and get a more consistent swing after everything the guys told me at the fitting day. There has been a noticable change already - my driving was as consistent as it's been on Saturday, but there is still some way to go. I'd be gutted if I'd been fitted for a non-adjustable driver and was stuck with something that was set with a closed face.

As Paul McGinley said "loft is your friend" which is why he has his driver set open so he can "see" the loft he's got to work with on his driver. Which is why Dustin Johnson's driver is something ridiculous like 12* where many would expect it to be 8* or 9* because of the distance he hits it.
 
Oddsocks, in reply to your comment about my alignment/swing, even though I had "open" shoulders, even after I corrected it, the fitters still left the club in the "closed" position because of my out/in swing path. They knew my story (i.e. just getting back into the game, looking to get lessons very soon and wanting to drop my handicap down to low teens/single figs.) and said that the way they've set the driver up is perfect for now, but once I start having lessons and my swing "matures", I may want to set the face back to neutral depending on the swing that I end up with. In that respect it's a VERY versatile club that can adjust/grow as my game grows/matures.

If, for instance, I'd bought a "draw" driver to compensate my swing, if my swing changed as I have lessons, that may not have been any good for me and will have been rendered useless. With the R11 I can take a minute or so to adjust the head back to neutral, and I'm good to go.

please dont take any offence by my post, i was only using your situation as an example.

I agree on the tuning the club head set up to suit your swing as it progresses, but surely as you come from low 20's hitting smooth sweet shots into your mid teens pushing for longer distance, the shaft will become void no matter how precise you set the head up.

im 50/50 on this at the moment. Part of me can see the key features, and as you listed as your swing maturesd so can the set up of the club, but lets be honest 3 years down the line there will be some new gadget that makes this obsolite and by the time your into the low teens your be looking for the next game improving h/c cutting weapon of choice.

I think the tuning is good for people with a totally ingrained swing, as this would justify tuning the club to the exact spec, but with most not having a swing anywhere near 50% ingrained, its going to be constant tuning.

My burner has a fixed head, this enables me to hit this the same every time, as someone else said if your swinging like an axe-man, your going to spray everything everywhere, having a club that can rectify a bad swing to a degree will only ruin your faith in your other clubs.

on a day that my driving is clicking, everything else tends to click, on a day that i cant drive my long game down to about a 7i is way off. having a tunable driver would give me a hole load of different stats to work from.

It does make me wonder whether we will see simular technology in irons, to be honest, i hope not!.

i will try and have a rip with one, maybe my view will be changed, but with me only being 50/50, that 300 is 10 green fee's with 2 lessons or 15 lessons which im sure will improve my game alot more than a driver. ;)
 
But you can get an adjustable driver for less than 100 notes.

As previously posted, I am not one to change the set up of my driver. I just like it to be neutral. It isn't hiding any of my numerous swing faults. I just feel more comfortable looking at a neutral driver head at address. I may yet change it to be slightly open (as a bit like region 3, I still think it looks a bit closed in the neutral position), but I really need a more consistent draw before I go down that route.
 
Oddsocks, in reply to your comment about my alignment/swing, even though I had "open" shoulders, even after I corrected it, the fitters still left the club in the "closed" position because of my out/in swing path. They knew my story (i.e. just getting back into the game, looking to get lessons very soon and wanting to drop my handicap down to low teens/single figs.) and said that the way they've set the driver up is perfect for now, but once I start having lessons and my swing "matures", I may want to set the face back to neutral depending on the swing that I end up with. In that respect it's a VERY versatile club that can adjust/grow as my game grows/matures.

If, for instance, I'd bought a "draw" driver to compensate my swing, if my swing changed as I have lessons, that may not have been any good for me and will have been rendered useless. With the R11 I can take a minute or so to adjust the head back to neutral, and I'm good to go.

please dont take any offence by my post, i was only using your situation as an example.

I agree on the tuning the club head set up to suit your swing as it progresses, but surely as you come from low 20's hitting smooth sweet shots into your mid teens pushing for longer distance, the shaft will become void no matter how precise you set the head up.

im 50/50 on this at the moment. Part of me can see the key features, and as you listed as your swing maturesd so can the set up of the club, but lets be honest 3 years down the line there will be some new gadget that makes this obsolite and by the time your into the low teens your be looking for the next game improving h/c cutting weapon of choice.

I think the tuning is good for people with a totally ingrained swing, as this would justify tuning the club to the exact spec, but with most not having a swing anywhere near 50% ingrained, its going to be constant tuning.

My burner has a fixed head, this enables me to hit this the same every time, as someone else said if your swinging like an axe-man, your going to spray everything everywhere, having a club that can rectify a bad swing to a degree will only ruin your faith in your other clubs.

on a day that my driving is clicking, everything else tends to click, on a day that i cant drive my long game down to about a 7i is way off. having a tunable driver would give me a hole load of different stats to work from.

It does make me wonder whether we will see simular technology in irons, to be honest, i hope not!.

i will try and have a rip with one, maybe my view will be changed, but with me only being 50/50, that 300 is 10 green fee's with 2 lessons or 15 lessons which im sure will improve my game alot more than a driver. ;)

No offence taken mate, apologies if it seemed that way! Was just trying to explain the potential benefits of an adjustable club being able to "grow" with you.

As for changing the shaft, I've already got a swing speed of 101.4mph according to Trackman, so that shouldn't be a problem. If it is, changing the shaft in the R11 is easy as pie, since it's adjustable ;)...I was basically told by the fitters that I have alot more distance in my swing, I just needed to find it. I can honestly say I didn't hit one good shot during my fitting and was still hitting it 220yards on a cold, damp day. My hope is that once I get a "better" swing and more consistency, I'll be able to get upwards of 250 yards out of my drives.

There are certainly pros and cons of adjustable clubs and I certainly hope we don't see it branch out to irons!

I think you have to be of the mind set that a club should NOT be used to try and "fix" faults in your swing. That's not the point of adjustable drivers at all. The point of adjustable drivers is to find the optimum set up of loft, address position and club head weight to maximise your "numbers" (club head speed, ball speed, ball spin, launch angle etc etc).

Of course, there's going to be people that will buy one to "cure" their hook or slice, but more fool them I suppose! Like you said £300 notes is alot of readies and can pay for a number of lessons to help improve your swing with your current driver.

I'd like to say I would pay the full £300 for one, but the harsh reality of it is that I simply can't afford it, which is why I'm so grateful to Mike and GM and TM to have given me the opportunity to own the latest driving technology for no cost. Other than my current Nike SQ that I bought for £99, the R11 will be the first brand new driver I've owned in 18 years of playing golf. I'm used to 2nd hand hand me downs, so for me, this is quite a treat!
 
ive been using the nike victory red str-8 fit for a couple of months and i love it. i enjoy messing about with the different settings. when playing on the course i tend to keep it a bit closed rather than mess arounf with it.
 
Oddsocks, in reply to your comment about my alignment/swing, even though I had "open" shoulders, even after I corrected it, the fitters still left the club in the "closed" position because of my out/in swing path. They knew my story (i.e. just getting back into the game, looking to get lessons very soon and wanting to drop my handicap down to low teens/single figs.) and said that the way they've set the driver up is perfect for now, but once I start having lessons and my swing "matures", I may want to set the face back to neutral depending on the swing that I end up with. In that respect it's a VERY versatile club that can adjust/grow as my game grows/matures.

If, for instance, I'd bought a "draw" driver to compensate my swing, if my swing changed as I have lessons, that may not have been any good for me and will have been rendered useless. With the R11 I can take a minute or so to adjust the head back to neutral, and I'm good to go.

please dont take any offence by my post, i was only using your situation as an example.

I agree on the tuning the club head set up to suit your swing as it progresses, but surely as you come from low 20's hitting smooth sweet shots into your mid teens pushing for longer distance, the shaft will become void no matter how precise you set the head up.

im 50/50 on this at the moment. Part of me can see the key features, and as you listed as your swing maturesd so can the set up of the club, but lets be honest 3 years down the line there will be some new gadget that makes this obsolite and by the time your into the low teens your be looking for the next game improving h/c cutting weapon of choice.

I think the tuning is good for people with a totally ingrained swing, as this would justify tuning the club to the exact spec, but with most not having a swing anywhere near 50% ingrained, its going to be constant tuning.

My burner has a fixed head, this enables me to hit this the same every time, as someone else said if your swinging like an axe-man, your going to spray everything everywhere, having a club that can rectify a bad swing to a degree will only ruin your faith in your other clubs.

on a day that my driving is clicking, everything else tends to click, on a day that i cant drive my long game down to about a 7i is way off. having a tunable driver would give me a hole load of different stats to work from.

It does make me wonder whether we will see simular technology in irons, to be honest, i hope not!.

i will try and have a rip with one, maybe my view will be changed, but with me only being 50/50, that 300 is 10 green fee's with 2 lessons or 15 lessons which im sure will improve my game alot more than a driver. ;)

No offence taken mate, apologies if it seemed that way! Was just trying to explain the potential benefits of an adjustable club being able to "grow" with you.

As for changing the shaft, I've already got a swing speed of 101.4mph according to Trackman, so that shouldn't be a problem. If it is, changing the shaft in the R11 is easy as pie, since it's adjustable ;)...I was basically told by the fitters that I have alot more distance in my swing, I just needed to find it. I can honestly say I didn't hit one good shot during my fitting and was still hitting it 220yards on a cold, damp day. My hope is that once I get a "better" swing and more consistency, I'll be able to get upwards of 250 yards out of my drives.

There are certainly pros and cons of adjustable clubs and I certainly hope we don't see it branch out to irons!

I think you have to be of the mind set that a club should NOT be used to try and "fix" faults in your swing. That's not the point of adjustable drivers at all. The point of adjustable drivers is to find the optimum set up of loft, address position and club head weight to maximise your "numbers" (club head speed, ball speed, ball spin, launch angle etc etc).

Of course, there's going to be people that will buy one to "cure" their hook or slice, but more fool them I suppose! Like you said £300 notes is alot of readies and can pay for a number of lessons to help improve your swing with your current driver.

I'd like to say I would pay the full £300 for one, but the harsh reality of it is that I simply can't afford it, which is why I'm so grateful to Mike and GM and TM to have given me the opportunity to own the latest driving technology for no cost. Other than my current Nike SQ that I bought for £99, the R11 will be the first brand new driver I've owned in 18 years of playing golf. I'm used to 2nd hand hand me downs, so for me, this is quite a treat!

Az, if you have a (clubhead)swing speed of 101.4 :D

How come you are only hitting the driver 220 yards? thats five wood distance for most of they guys on here :D
 
Oddsocks, in reply to your comment about my alignment/swing, even though I had "open" shoulders, even after I corrected it, the fitters still left the club in the "closed" position because of my out/in swing path. They knew my story (i.e. just getting back into the game, looking to get lessons very soon and wanting to drop my handicap down to low teens/single figs.) and said that the way they've set the driver up is perfect for now, but once I start having lessons and my swing "matures", I may want to set the face back to neutral depending on the swing that I end up with. In that respect it's a VERY versatile club that can adjust/grow as my game grows/matures.

If, for instance, I'd bought a "draw" driver to compensate my swing, if my swing changed as I have lessons, that may not have been any good for me and will have been rendered useless. With the R11 I can take a minute or so to adjust the head back to neutral, and I'm good to go.

please dont take any offence by my post, i was only using your situation as an example.

I agree on the tuning the club head set up to suit your swing as it progresses, but surely as you come from low 20's hitting smooth sweet shots into your mid teens pushing for longer distance, the shaft will become void no matter how precise you set the head up.

im 50/50 on this at the moment. Part of me can see the key features, and as you listed as your swing maturesd so can the set up of the club, but lets be honest 3 years down the line there will be some new gadget that makes this obsolite and by the time your into the low teens your be looking for the next game improving h/c cutting weapon of choice.

I think the tuning is good for people with a totally ingrained swing, as this would justify tuning the club to the exact spec, but with most not having a swing anywhere near 50% ingrained, its going to be constant tuning.

My burner has a fixed head, this enables me to hit this the same every time, as someone else said if your swinging like an axe-man, your going to spray everything everywhere, having a club that can rectify a bad swing to a degree will only ruin your faith in your other clubs.

on a day that my driving is clicking, everything else tends to click, on a day that i cant drive my long game down to about a 7i is way off. having a tunable driver would give me a hole load of different stats to work from.

It does make me wonder whether we will see simular technology in irons, to be honest, i hope not!.

i will try and have a rip with one, maybe my view will be changed, but with me only being 50/50, that 300 is 10 green fee's with 2 lessons or 15 lessons which im sure will improve my game alot more than a driver. ;)

No offence taken mate, apologies if it seemed that way! Was just trying to explain the potential benefits of an adjustable club being able to "grow" with you.

As for changing the shaft, I've already got a swing speed of 101.4mph according to Trackman, so that shouldn't be a problem. If it is, changing the shaft in the R11 is easy as pie, since it's adjustable ;)...I was basically told by the fitters that I have alot more distance in my swing, I just needed to find it. I can honestly say I didn't hit one good shot during my fitting and was still hitting it 220yards on a cold, damp day. My hope is that once I get a "better" swing and more consistency, I'll be able to get upwards of 250 yards out of my drives.

There are certainly pros and cons of adjustable clubs and I certainly hope we don't see it branch out to irons!

I think you have to be of the mind set that a club should NOT be used to try and "fix" faults in your swing. That's not the point of adjustable drivers at all. The point of adjustable drivers is to find the optimum set up of loft, address position and club head weight to maximise your "numbers" (club head speed, ball speed, ball spin, launch angle etc etc).

Of course, there's going to be people that will buy one to "cure" their hook or slice, but more fool them I suppose! Like you said £300 notes is alot of readies and can pay for a number of lessons to help improve your swing with your current driver.

I'd like to say I would pay the full £300 for one, but the harsh reality of it is that I simply can't afford it, which is why I'm so grateful to Mike and GM and TM to have given me the opportunity to own the latest driving technology for no cost. Other than my current Nike SQ that I bought for £99, the R11 will be the first brand new driver I've owned in 18 years of playing golf. I'm used to 2nd hand hand me downs, so for me, this is quite a treat!

Az, if you have a (clubhead)swing speed of 101.4 :D

How come you are only hitting the driver 220 yards? thats five wood distance for most of they guys on here :D

Don't you mean 5 iron? I feel most inadequate! :o :D
 
But it is a fully custom fitted 220 yards (accurate)

i tracked a drive a few weeks back that was an absolute boooomer on a cold dam day, 235 yards!... i hit the skin off it too.
 
But it is a fully custom fitted 220 yards (accurate)

i tracked a drive a few weeks back that was an absolute boooomer on a cold dam day, 235 yards!... i hit the skin off it too.

Exactly. I know I have a few extra yards in me as I never hit a clean ball (was too busy being nervous! :o). I'd be more than happy if I could max my drive lengths out at around 250 with consistent dispersion...But I have a way to go before I get there!
 
Dispersion is what scores, especially if the course means you need to play for placement. In all honesty i reckon 3/4 holes max require accurate placement of your tee shot out of the 13 par 4 and one par 5.
 
Dispersion is what scores, especially if the course means you need to play for placement. In all honesty i reckon 3/4 holes max require accurate placement of your tee shot out of the 13 par 4 and one par 5.

Yep. Below is our 17th hole looking back to the tee (which is pretty much straight back).

It's not as clear from this picture, but the "risk" tee shot is one straight between those two lakes. Anything left or right will be wet unless you hit a massive tee shot

It's a great shot to take as if you make it, you're only left around 60 yards into pin (which you can't see the bottom of and is protected by bunkers). If you choose to lay up infront of the water with a short iron, you're left 150+ yards into the elevated green, a much trickier second shot.

%5Cassets%5Cimg%5Cdataset%5CGallery-42-172-TH%20Gal%2017th%20hole.jpg
 
Dispersion is what scores, especially if the course means you need to play for placement. In all honesty i reckon 3/4 holes max require accurate placement of your tee shot out of the 13 par 4 and one par 5.

Yep. Below is our 17th hole looking back to the tee (which is pretty much straight back).

It's not as clear from this picture, but the "risk" tee shot is one straight between those two lakes. Anything left or right will be wet unless you hit a massive tee shot

It's a great shot to take as if you make it, you're only left around 60 yards into pin (which you can't see the bottom of and is protected by bunkers). If you choose to lay up infront of the water with a short iron, you're left 150+ yards into the elevated green, a much trickier second shot.

%5Cassets%5Cimg%5Cdataset%5CGallery-42-172-TH%20Gal%2017th%20hole.jpg

The course picture looks fantastic... You might have to do a forum meet or something.... ;)
I can show you some real irons and bring my nike's along! :D
 
Dispersion is what scores, especially if the course means you need to play for placement. In all honesty i reckon 3/4 holes max require accurate placement of your tee shot out of the 13 par 4 and one par 5.

Yep. Below is our 17th hole looking back to the tee (which is pretty much straight back).

It's not as clear from this picture, but the "risk" tee shot is one straight between those two lakes. Anything left or right will be wet unless you hit a massive tee shot

It's a great shot to take as if you make it, you're only left around 60 yards into pin (which you can't see the bottom of and is protected by bunkers). If you choose to lay up infront of the water with a short iron, you're left 150+ yards into the elevated green, a much trickier second shot.

%5Cassets%5Cimg%5Cdataset%5CGallery-42-172-TH%20Gal%2017th%20hole.jpg

The course picture looks fantastic... You might have to do a forum meet or something.... ;)
I can show you some real irons and bring my nike's along! :D

:D

That picture actually does the course pretty good justice. It's not the longest course (around 6000 yards), but for a "public pay-and-play" that's not even 20 years old, it's in fantastic shape during the season. The greens are very good quality (probably not the quality that some are used to) and there are alot of blind tee shots and alot to keep you thinking.

I would be more than happy to arrange a forum meet there if anyone is interested. For anyone travelling from afar they have an 11 bedroom lodge on site which you can stay in for around 70 per double/twin room per night B&B, which is pretty reasonable.
 
Top