Adjustability

[kid2]

Ok before i start i dont really want any "Go get lessons that'll sort you" type answers...
Im more interested in whether or not adjustable clubs are really worth their salt.....

My iron play is pretty strong as is my 3 wood but its no secret that i struggle with the driver.....

Ball flight with the irons is straight to a slight draw with an odd push fade with the 4 iron....No biggy there really...For the most part i hit that straight....
Im really starting to get good hits on the irons since my swing change as i can literally here the fizz off the face....
My 3 wood isnt an issue and neither is my 21 degree hybrid both of these im confident standing over and ball flight with both is very good.

Im really only struggling with the driver and i feel that if i can get this sorted then the confidence will go through the roof....
Its not that i cant hit the blasted thing its that im so sketchy with it dispersion wise that its hard to know where the ball is going....The majority of the time im leaking balls to the right....I must have a slight out to in path with the longer club but why doesnt this show on my 3 wood....
I dont understand....Im very close to lopping 2" off my Ping i15 to see what will happen if i do but im also looking at the adjustable route like maybe a TM R11 or a Titleist 910 or something along those lines that may quiten the left to right flight and make it more managable...

Sorry for the long winded post but it seemed short in my head.:whoo:

 

[bobmac]

You're trying to hit the driver too hard.

 

[Imurg]

I'm not fully convinced by adjustability.
As a fitting tool it's worth it's weight in gold from the fitter's perspective.
It enables him to make adjustments quickly so needing to hold less stock.
But once the fitting process is over, the only reason you would need to change the set-up is if your swing changes dramatically. Then all your clubs would need changing..
The ability to change the set-up of the club means that many will. If they hit a series of bad shots then just change the setting to compensate. Then when they start hitting bad shots because they've changed the setting, they change it again and the cycle continues..
A fixed head means you have a club that works - assuming it does in the first place. If you hit a poor shot then it's your swing.

 

[kid2]

You're trying to hit the driver too hard.

Bob your not the first one to tell me that and i would agree with you but i feel like im hitting the 3 wood at the same speed.....
You give me both clubs and 2 balls and ill swing the same but 7 out of 10 with the driver will be going right for the most part.

 

[Khamelion]

In another thread further, I wrote, that I bought the R11, my thoughts being that as my swing changes I'll be able to adjust the club accordingly.

However now, after I have had lessons, I still am, my swing has changed, but my adjustable driver has not.

By that I mean if I swing to hard I know I'm going to slice, if swing within myself I'll hit it straight. That's me doing that not the adjustable club.

I'm now at the point where I bought the R11 but I was never fit for a driver, it was bought of the shelf and I really regret that now.

I wish I'd waited a little longer and got fitted properly. On my next lesson this saturday I'm going to ask what the trade in would be on my R11 against a different driver and ask if I can try before I buy.

I'm looking at the Cleveland launcher XL270.

Adjustability, after having owned an R11 for nearly a year, I think it was a good marketing gimmick.

 

[Khamelion]

The ability to change the set-up of the club means that many will. If they hit a series of bad shots then just change the setting to compensate. Then when they start hitting bad shots because they've changed the setting, they change it again and the cycle continues..

Yup I agree 100%, as that was me, I sliced so I set the sole plate on my R11 to closed and dropped the loft closing the face further, but I still sliced exacerbated by the low loft.

I just became frustrated that my "miracle cure" club was not the be all and end all to fix my problems.

 

[kid2]

Then when they start hitting bad shots because they've changed the setting, they change it again and the cycle continues..
A fixed head means you have a club that works - assuming it does in the first place. If you hit a poor shot then it's your swing.

I also agree with you Murg.....Id prefer to sort the swing but what happens when i try and get at the ball from the inside with the driver it has a knock on effect with other clubs and things go pear shaped quite quickly.

I might be knocking myself a fair bit im my original post but im not really afraid of hitting a driver...More that i can control a 3 wood better...Now whether thats down to loft and a shorter shaft is anyones guess but its got me baffled.
I love hitting a driver but it wrecks more holes than it gives me an advantage on to be honest...
Take sunday in our medal....I hit the driver on 8 holes 4 par 4's and 4 par 5 's....
It didnt cost me any shots but there were a few bum clenching outcomes...I only hit 3 fairways of the 8 drives.....I hit the 3 wood on 5 other par 4's and hit every fairway with it...
Distance wise i get about 35 metres more with the driver than the 3 wood...Which is why id like to get something that i can hit straight.

 

[bobmac]

Have you tried a Ping i15 driver with the same shaft as your 3 wood?

 

[kid2]

Have you tried a Ping i15 driver with the same shaft as your 3 wood?

The one i have has the very same shaft as the 3 wood Bob....Its the stock stiff Ping TFC 149 D and i haven't the foggiest what all those no's mean!:mmm:

Im just wondering has the shafts length got me up in a heap....The shaft of the driver is 2 and 3/4"s longer than the 3 wood.

 

[fundy]

The one i have has the very same shaft as the 3 wood Bob....Its the stock stiff Ping TFC 149 D and i haven't the foggiest what all those no's mean!:mmm:

Im just wondering has the shafts length got me up in a heap....The shaft of the driver is 2 and 3/4"s longer than the 3 wood.

Get your pro to lop 2 inches off your driver, nearly 3 inches longer than your 3 wood is a ridiculous difference, no wonder you struggle with it

 

[bobmac]

If the shaft is the same then you aren't swinging it the same as your 3 wood.
It may feel like it but I doubt it is on the course.
Either that or the loft in your 3 wood is hiding a slice. Doubt it though

 

[Ethan]

I don't think this will be cured by adjustability. If you had a consistent shape you want to change, then maybe, but if you hit it all over the place, then what setting will fix that?

 

[kid2]

If the shaft is the same then you aren't swinging it the same as your 3 wood.
It may feel like it but I doubt it is on the course.
Either that or the loft in your 3 wood is hiding a slice. Doubt it though

Is there anything that you would recommend to do to try and swing with the same tempo as my 3 wood Bob?
As you say i may think im doing it but the reality is im probably not....

The real thing for me is that i love the look of the i15 driver and id hate to sell it ok its 9.5 degree head but i havent an issue with airtime...I get good height on it...I havent a problem getting it up in the air.....Its just trying to tighten the dispersion...I love the i15 faimly of woods...Probably a little underrated compared to the competition but they are really nice.

 

[bobmac]

I'll type this slowly as I know you can't read fast.
Make the FIRST 18 inches of the downsing the same speed as the LAST 18 inches of the backswing.

 

[DaveM]

Yup I agree 100%, as that was me, I sliced so I set the sole plate on my R11 to closed and dropped the loft closing the face further, but I still sliced exacerbated by the low loft.

I just became frustrated that my "miracle cure" club was not the be all and end all to fix my problems.

On the R9/R11 if you drop the loft you are opening the face. If you increase the loft you close the face. I know it does not sound logical but that is the way it works.

 

[Khamelion]

On the R9/R11 if you drop the loft you are opening the face. If you increase the loft you close the face. I know it does not sound logical but that is the way it works.

Not that it really makes any sense but I've juist tried the upper and lower lofts on my R11 and from standard 9 degree loft dropping it the two notches to 8 closed the face slightly, or so it appeared, however when I took it up two notches to to 10 degrees it was closed even more.

 

[kid2]

I'll type this slowly as I know you can't read fast.
Make the FIRST 18 inches of the downsing the same speed as the LAST 18 inches of the backswing.

Ill give it a whirl and let you know so Bob.
It has to be something really trivial....Its the only club thats bothering me.

 

[HomerJSimpson]

Not a fan of adjustability myself. I'm too much of a tinkerer and so as soon as the ball misbehaves I'd be reaching for the wrench. I have to be honest and despite your protestations, if you are hitting theball well with irons and fairway woods then there is an issue with your driver swing. Get a pro to look at it first and then decide if you still want to look at an adjustable big dog. Surely cheaper than forking out on a new club or radically changing the set up and length of your current driver

 

[Region3]

Ill give it a whirl and let you know so Bob.
It has to be something really trivial....Its the only club thats bothering me.

If Bob's tip doesn't work, I have one (uh oh!).

With most shots we try to hit the ball a certain distance, but with a driver off the tee it's get it out there as far as possible.
Try picking a target not only of line, but also of distance, so you're trying to land the ball in a specific place on your line.

You obviously have to be honest with yourself about your driver distance and pick a realistic target, but it might stop the unconscious act of trying to hit the ball too hard.

 

[G1BB0]

hmmm good tip Gary, might slow down my 250mph driver swing