3 wood troubles

jamielaing

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Hoping there are some gurus about that can help out with this;

I am wanting to get a new 3 wood, I don't carry one just now and use a Mizuno H5 1 iron instead. I have been having a look at my shortlist seems to be a rogue or the new cobra. I am wanting an option set to a low loft (somewhere between 12 and 13.5 degrees). I am basically wanting an option to sit between my driver and my 1 iron.

Now the issue; every 3 wood I have ever owned goes brilliantly for a month or so then turns into a big draw. More often than not, a big hook. Is this an issue with fairway woods with a faster swing speed? I have only owned ones with stiff shafts before and I definitely need an x stiff but I don't fancy spending the cash to find it's all going left. I am getting a fitting so I can try them but just interested to here people's thoughts.

Numbers wise I am getting 110-115 mph with my driver and ball speed 160-165mph.
 
I think a lot of standard fairways have a degree of draw bias built into them. Some more so than others.
Certainly most of the "Pro" models from Callaway and the Sub-Zero models are more fade bias and if your booking ordinary 3 woods then it might be worth a go with one of those.
The Epic SZ is adjustable as well - de-loft by a degree and you open the face by 2°.
With Epic Flash coming out, the old Epic will be cheaper.
 
Numbers wise I am getting 110-115 mph with my driver and ball speed 160-165mph.
Do you find that you are still stood upright after swinging at that speed or are you on your backside :LOL:?

Out of interest, before people come along with proper answers, does it go better if you swing slower or is that not an option.
 
I had pretty much the same problem and have had more success with the Callaway XR which i was given a loan of. Im looking at buying the old XR or the Steelhead. Not sure if much difference.
 
I think a lot of standard fairways have a degree of draw bias built into them. Some more so than others.
Certainly most of the "Pro" models from Callaway and the Sub-Zero models are more fade bias and if your booking ordinary 3 woods then it might be worth a go with one of those.
The Epic SZ is adjustable as well - de-loft by a degree and you open the face by 2°.
With Epic Flash coming out, the old Epic will be cheaper.
Delofting is an option, the cobra can go down to a 12.
 
Do you find that you are still stood upright after swinging at that speed or are you on your backside :LOL:?

Out of interest, before people come along with proper answers, does it go better if you swing slower or is that not an option.

Slowing down a touch can help. The issue then becomes distance. The club will need to sit between my 1 iron and my driver so there is no point in getting it if I lose the distance.
 
If a club goes brilliantly for a month it's probably not the club that is causing subsequent issues.

You aren't going to see a significant distance difference in a properly struck 1i or 3w; you would however expect to see a different trajectory/flight because the 3w is designed to launch higher.
 
If a club goes brilliantly for a month it's probably not the club that is causing subsequent issues.

You aren't going to see a significant distance difference in a properly struck 1i or 3w; you would however expect to see a different trajectory/flight because the 3w is designed to launch higher.

Agree with that however that is why I am looking at a strong lofted 3 wood which should increase the distance.
 
Agree with that however that is why I am looking at a strong lofted 3 wood which should increase the distance.
Not necessarily.

For any given set of strike conditions there will be an optimum launch condition to give the maximum carry - and in terms of overall distance you would have to define the landing conditions as well to establish what the optimum trajectory overall would be and work back from there. All the above changing with shaft and head of course.

You are clearly a skilled ball striker with good mechanics; but you can't change the laws of physics
 
My 3 wood is (was, before it burnt to a crisp) my favourite club in the bag but it's a but of an oddity. My driver and irons are all stiff shafted but my 3 wood is a regular stock shaft which came with the club, which is a TM Burner 2.0. I probably do feel like I swing a bit easier with it than most other clubs and distance certainly isn't an issue as I can knock it past the drives of some of the boys I play with. I'm going to get fitted for a new driver and 3 wood this week and will mention the stiff v regular thing to the fitter and see what he says. I wouldn't imagine I should move everything to regular shafts (i'm "only" 38 and my driver swing speed is 96-100mph) but it is interesting.

To compound the oddness, I used to have the matching driver and 5 wood and couldn't hit them to save my life. Golf's a strange game!
 
Saw the Brandon Stone on "A round with Radar" recently and they both agreed a 3 wood that works is like the holy grail. Stone said you can really tell how a guy is feeling by his ability to flush a 3 wood down the stretch, and any time someone on the range asks him for a lash off his 3 wood he is reluctant (any other club sounds fair game). So you're not alone! It's a tricky one to get right, perhaps being custom fit will give you a little more confidence in your selection. I can personally vouch for the TS3, if I had a wad I'd be picking up the fairway - making do with putting a tensei shaft (I was fit for one for the driver - which is a beast) in my 915 and hoping that's the one!

Just saw on your sig you've made great strides towards Cat 1, hope you break through this season (y)
 
Going to XS might make it worse if the shaft closes the head down.
As a good player you need to be telling this to a good fitter and get the numbers for a selection of heads and shafts.
All good advice on here but trackman dosnt lie.
 
Sounds like a lot of clubs that will be going a similar distance, are the hooks duck hooks or big high hooks? If you are having low left's maybe loft and spin is what you need?
 
if i were you i would pop into Golfclubs4cash in Edinburgh and have a look, they had hundreds new and old and plenty of shaft options, quite a few X flex ADD on offer
 
If you are carrying and hitting a 1 iron then you shouldn't have any issue hitting a 3 wood and the fact you can hit the ones you buy initially would indicate any problems are down to the swing but these days, it should be easy enough to get a fitter to tap you into a decent head and shaft
 
If youre bad one is the quick hook, the last thing you want to be doing is buying a 3 wood then adjusting the loft downwards (talking from experience). Ideally you probably want one with the face a degree or two open and the right shaft to produce optimal spin and launch conditions. A decent fitter/club builder needed imo
 
Clubhouse golf had the Wilson Staff FG Tour F5 for about £50-60 brand new. That's adjustable and could be better than using hundreds if you're not sure?
 
You aren't going to see a significant distance difference in a properly struck 1i or 3w; you would however expect to see a different trajectory/flight because the 3w is designed to launch higher.

I carry both a 3W and 1 iron.
The 3 wood goes considerably further as it is 3 inches longer than the 1 iron.
To the OP........ I would definitely be looking at trying an extra stiff shaft
 
I always feel that I will flush my 3 wood off the tee. I could be playing rubbish and struggling with driver / irons / wedges etc. but tee my 3 wood up on a par 4 and I'd back myself to hit a nice shot.
 
Went for a fitting tonight and the x shaft has helped. Great numbers, still a slight left bias (mainly due to me being unable to line up at the range) but looking good. Tried to put up a photo but the server won't accept it.

There's a Callaway fitting day coming up so waiting for that for a head to head but right now the M5 looks very very good.
 
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