20 -30 yard controlled fade around trees.

[pokerjoke]

Hi all.
I have been having a few problems lately fading my ball around our trees.
Of course its not all the time I do hit the fairway now and again.
But having gone from a major slicer to now being more able to produce a draw
more easier than a fade,i have now been struggling to produce a fade.
Im not on about a 5 yard fade im need a much bigger fade.
Not a shot I need with a wood im talking about an iron from a 7 down to pw.
We have a lot of trees at our course and its an essential shot.
Usually I try to point the club face at my target and aim everything left and hit
the ball along my feet line.
What grip am I looking for?
Does it change from a draw grip?
Am I trying to finish high etc.
Coach keep it short

 

[One Planer]

Do you move your ball position when you try and hit this kid of shot?

 

[Foxholer]

Target through tree at 12 o Clock. Feet, and rest of body, aligned at 10. Clubface pointing at 11.

Swing along line of feet - normally.

Adjust according to taste/requirement.

A slightly weaker grip generally encourages an open club-face.

 

[srixon 1]

Remember that when you open the club face you also increase loft. This means that the balls launch angle will increase meaning that low branches might be more in play if you are hitting from under the trees.

 

[pokerjoke]

Do you move your ball position when you try and hit this kid of shot?

Generally yes,I will have it slightly forward of centre.

 

[pokerjoke]

Remember that when you open the club face you also increase loft. This means that the balls launch angle will increase meaning that low branches might be more in play if you are hitting from under the trees.

More around trees than under.
A 7 iron with a closed down clubface for under seems to work fine.

 

[pokerjoke]

Target through tree at 12 o Clock. Feet, and rest of body, aligned at 10. Clubface pointing at 11.

Swing along line of feet - normally.

Adjust according to taste/requirement.

A slightly weaker grip generally encourages an open club-face.

This is what I thought I was doing,maybe without the weaker grip though

 

[Foxholer]

This is what I thought I was doing,maybe without the weaker grip though

Meant to also say that it gets harder with greater loft clubs, so trying to bend it 20-30 yards with a PW is heading towards Bubba level! 7 iron is pretty tough too - I wouldn't want to need that shot very often and would far prefer an alternative (easy 5 or 6?).

 

[the_coach]

ball/target line 0º

swing path -8º

face angle -4º

 

[pokerjoke]

ball/target line 0º

swing path -8º

face angle -4º

Thx see its not that difficult.

 

[garyinderry]

hard to be certain of a "controlled" 20- 30 yard fade!


a mentioned, hard to swing a PW like that too!

 

[pokerjoke]

hard to be certain of a "controlled" 20- 30 yard fade!


a mentioned, hard to swing a PW like that too!

True however on my course its a must.
Can only give it a go.
Even if I get it 15 yards it will be better.

 

[the_coach]

Thx see its not that difficult.

Was leaving it up to you to work out how to do that.

But in reality the with the more lofted clubs, so more back spin, harder to move it a great distance left or right.

Especially the wedges. Doubt you'll get a controlled wedge center strike to move 20-30 yards left to right.

To get anywhere near that you'd have to be able to generate some serious club head speed, like Bubba at the masters.

Hard to believe the course designer left the money shot for good course management shot into the green on any hole being a shot with a short iron or wedge you have to fade 30 yards around trees from a wedge, 9 iron distance in.

Maybe you should look at thought process, course management on the shot before that leaving you with having to try to play it.

 

[pokerjoke]

Our course is very short and every iron into the green is an 8 iron or less.
However the fairways are very very tight and they are tree lined so a fade or draw is a must have shot.
I will give your advice a go and see if I can get that fade working.

 

[Deleted Member 1156]

Interesting conundrum.

Learn to not hit the ball into trouble or learn to hit recovery shots to get you out of it :mmm:

 

[SocketRocket]

Hi all.
I have been having a few problems lately fading my ball around our trees.
Of course its not all the time I do hit the fairway now and again.
But having gone from a major slicer to now being more able to produce a draw
more easier than a fade,i have now been struggling to produce a fade.
Im not on about a 5 yard fade im need a much bigger fade.
Not a shot I need with a wood im talking about an iron from a 7 down to pw.
We have a lot of trees at our course and its an essential shot.
Usually I try to point the club face at my target and aim everything left and hit
the ball along my feet line.
What grip am I looking for?
Does it change from a draw grip?
Am I trying to finish high etc.
Coach keep it short

You should point the clubface where you want the ball to take off and your swing path will determine how the ball will turn in flight. For a fade the swing path must be inside the clubface direction.

Its a bit technical but their is something called 'D" plane and the more lofted the club the less the ball will turn in flight as the difference between the clubface direction and swingpath is less as loft increases.