How much difference has a custom fit driver made to your game?

[JustOne]

I'm a HUGE sceptic about the whole fitting of clubs thing - you still have to put a good swing on it regardless of what's in your hand.

And what if you can put a good swing on it?

This is true... although I reckon I could put a bad swing on any club if I put my mind to it

I did try my buddies Callaway X-forged and got 9mph faster swing speed with just my normal swing (my clubs are like iron bars) so I do believe that a change of clubs is in order

 

[Atticus_Finch]

I as fitted for my G10 with stiff V2 shaft last year and although I came away with pretty much the same spec as my previous driver, I feel it's still worth going for the ressurance and the experience.
Any new club I buy in future will be CF.

 

[theeaglehunter]

I was talking to my pro about this before the Goswick meet.

I wasn't getting on with the driver and tried a few hybrid's.

I found one that I hit as sweet as a nut. The pro said that I should have that particular club, not one in plastic wrap from the shelf. (It was a new club, he taped it up)

The shafts are so different, because of the manufacturing process and the presence of minute air bubbles in the resin, no two are exact.
I told him that I hit the driver really well at the C/F session.
He asked if I had bought the driver that I had hit.
When I told him that I didn't, he wasn't surprised that it didn't feel the same .

Just food for thought

I think this is an excellent post, and it raises a point I think I fell the wrong side of when purchasing my 3 wood last year. I was hitting everyone straight as an arrow on the range (I couldn't slice it even when I tried to deliberately!) even if the height / trajectory was varying slightly on each strike. When the guy took the tape off I noticed a scratch on the paint work and so picked up one of the same spec without a mark on. It may just be me but I swear it is not the same. I am still to replicate how I hit the club on the range with the exact one I ended up buying.

For this reason therefore when I do eventually venture into the custom fit driver market (finances have prevented me doing so already this year) I will certainly be looking at buying the club I try and despite the inefficiencies within my swing I am strongly considering getting the shaft of whatever club I try pured. One quick question though...If I go to somewhere like the Belfry to be custom fit I presume the clubs I will try are demo clubs that can't actually be sold, meaning I would have to have a different one made up and sent to me. Without testing a club with a pured shaft and then buying a club with another pured shaft how would I know I'm not at risk to the issue Vig alluded to in his post? Could this be a flaw in the process? Or is it all in the mind as I am nowhere near good enough to notice the difference?

 

[vig]

Eagle

With the Belfry, you don't get the club on the day so there is no way you would get "the" club

 

[HomerJSimpson]

My pro has recently got the Tour Exotics fitting equipment in to start doing more C/F work and its really interesting to pick out some shafts you know are too stiff/whippy and see the effect it has and then change back to one that really works for you.

I have to say my driving with the R7 Limited has improved in terms of length and accuracy. I'm up from 44% of fairways last year to 52% this year and there is still room to improve.

 

[bazlambo]

I've just been custom fitted for a new driver as although this is probably my strength, I was concerned about the lack of distance into the wind and trying to reduce the bad slice that rears its ugly head from time to time.

I had my heart set on the R9 after hitting it previously. However, spin rate is king I was told and after hitting the R9, Burner, G10, Rapture, and Callaway 9 the scores on the doors pointed to the G10 with a spin rate of 2500. The others were around the 4-4500 mark.

I now know I have the right club and on using it so far it goes further in the wind and the horrible slice has been negated.

Would seriously recommend the c/f as each swing and subsequent ball contact will produce different spin rates, and this can then be looked at with club type and shaft.

 

[JustOne]

the scores on the doors pointed to the G10 with a spin rate of 2500. The others were around the 4-4500 mark.

Is the G10 notorious for a low spin rate or is that just how you hit it?

My point being that shouldn't we all rush out and buy one?

If it's just the shaft that presented the clubhead in such a way as to reduce the spin then surely you could simply apply the same shaft to any club?

I was in a Leadbetter academy two months ago but they'd only test you if you were using TaylorMade (as they have a deal with them) which I though was hilarious.

 

[RGDave]

Honestly.....my C/F driver mostly stays at home.

I got fitted for it about a month back into playing after a long, long lay-off. BAD IDEA....

I need a new C/F one really, but am happy to play with either of my other two (soon to be one, if I can sell my G5).

For most, I'd expect a positive story....

 

[Hendy]

Does the CF go for irons as well??

If for example you get a CF on a driver and they tell you that say a stiff flex is needed. does this in turn mean your irons will need to be stiff?

asking as i am unsure what suits me best.. I tend to slice a drive when i put more into it.. and pull alot of my irons lol..

I have a stiff flex driver and reg flex irons.

cheers

 

[haplesshacker]

One manufacters reg is not the same as anothers reg / stiff etc. Same with the woods. Some makes you might be stiff, some regular and some extra stiff! As I understand it there is no set standard in shaft flex. We haven't even touched on kick points yet!

I think I might be thinking about all this stuff way too much. Too much time on my hands whilst looking for another job.

 

[slugger]

It's the kick points in a shaft that i don't really understand...

 

[TonyN]

It's the kick points in a shaft that i don't really understand...

All it is is where the shaft bends from thats all, top, middle or bottom. Or hi, mid, low really. I think the lower the kick point, the more Torque created.

Think of a ruler over hanging a table and then twanging it. If its 3/4's off the table it will twang near the top and be pretty floppy. If its 1/4 of the table it will twang near the bottom and be alot stiffer so it will give more 'twang'

Make sense? I hope so cause I am confused

 

[RGDave]

I have a stiff flex driver and reg flex irons.

Um.....

I have the opposite.....reg flex woods for distance and stiffer irons for a little more accuracy (though I lose a tiny bit of distance, I reckon).

t.b.h. you can play with either most probably, but personally I feel the driver is the one to get "speed-checked" for.

 

[Hendy]

i tend to try and hit the driver harder so in turn i think i swing faster at it..

The irons i am alot more controled with a slower swing and also dont swing it as big..

I got the driver 2nd hand and at the time i was thinking i stiff might have been a better bet for me but i am not 100% sure. might be worth spending the money and seeing what the machines have to say. I drive the ball around 220/240 yards and have a nice low flight which i like. 5 iron i hit around 150yards..

again not sure if any of that info helps lol...

 

[RGDave]

I drive the ball around 220/240 yards and have a nice low flight which i like. 5 iron i hit around 150yards..

again not sure if any of that info helps lol...

I can't be sure, but on those stats, I'd say your driver speed might well be under stiff, but your irons in reg are probably spot on.

I'm looking for reg steel irons at the moment, shan't be getting stiff with 165-170 5 iron.

 

[Karl102]

Hi,

I have recently had Callaway Diablo custom fitted. It had made a huge distance i can carry the ball. Not only that i feel more confident as well.
DO IT !!! its great fun as well !!!