Driver shaft -> fairway.

[spongebob59]

I've a spare driver shaft that I'd like to trim to use as a fairway.

I'm assuming if I cut at tip section it will make it play softer or butt end firmer.

Is there a rule how much to take off (tip/butt or both?)

First attempt at this so best not guess

TIA

 

[Foxholer]

Other way around!

From memory, generally Tip 1" for 3/4 wood 1.5 for 5-wood. Then Butt Trim to required length. Feel can be adjusted by tipping more or less than 'standard'.

 

[patricks148]

I've a spare driver shaft that I'd like to trim to use as a fairway.

I'm assuming if I cut at tip section it will make it play softer or butt end firmer.

Is there a rule how much to take off (tip/butt or both?)

First attempt at this so best not guess

TIA

you have to cut it off the butt end or it won't fit in the head, you would also need to check the diameter of the shaft you have with the head you are putting it in some Man use dif widths.

 

[Foxholer]

you have to cut it off the butt end or it won't fit in the head, you would also need to check the diameter of the shaft you have with the head you are putting it in some Man use dif widths.

Agree about shaft v hosel attributes having to match, but not the requirement/reason about cutting butt cf tip! I don't know of any Driver/Wood shaft that doesn't have a 'Parallel Tip' sect ion (normally 3") to enable 'tipping'! They'd have to make separate Driver and Fairway versions of shafts if there wasn't such a length of parallel at the tip - a huge overhead simply avoided!

 

[clubchamp98]

I've a spare driver shaft that I'd like to trim to use as a fairway.

I'm assuming if I cut at tip section it will make it play softer or butt end firmer.

Is there a rule how much to take off (tip/butt or both?)

First attempt at this so best not guess

TIA

You need to leave at least 1” of the parallel tip out of the adapter or head this stops it flexing in the head/ adapter and it’s also stronger.
Do you know if it’s been tipped before as normally 1” is max on most shafts.
Have a look on YouTube lots of vids or google the manufacturer of the shaft butt and tip trimming are on their sites.

 

[Foxholer]

You need to leave at least 1” of the parallel tip out of the adapter or head this stops it flexing in the head/ adapter and it’s also stronger.
Do you know if it’s been tipped before as normally 1” is max on most shafts.
...

H'mm! Not sure (dubious in fact) about 'flexing in the head/adapter', but the more P-S left the better strengthwise.! Parallel section on uncut shaft is normally 3". 5 Wood tipping is often/normally 1.5" or even more.
Bore-through heads (Titleist, Callaway) often gobbled most of the Parallel section within the head too. But certainly Parallel section is stronmger than lower end of 'working' section.

 

[clubchamp98]

H'mm! Not sure (dubious in fact) about 'flexing in the head/adapter', but the more P-S left the better strengthwise.! Parallel section on uncut shaft is normally 3". 5 Wood tipping is often/normally 1.5" or even more.
Bore-through heads (Titleist, Callaway) often gobbled most of the Parallel section within the head too. But certainly Parallel section is stronmger than lower end of 'working' section.

I was told this by a pro club builder.
If any part of the shaft that flexes is in the head (old style bore through)
There is more chance of it snapping as it’s weaker.
I am assuming this would go for adapters but will concede that may not be the case.
But if this has already been tipped it could weaken it to tip it again for a 3 wood.
Always willing to learn if you don’t think this right.

I was quoting 1” for 3 wood ..5 wood is 1/2” more as you say.

 

[jim8flog]

Check the manufacturers web site or do a web search for trim instructions it can vary.
Some shafts require tip trimming for a driver some as little as 0.5" from driver to 3 wood

 

[jim8flog]

What shaft and head?

 

[Foxholer]

...
If any part of the shaft that flexes is in the head (old style bore through)
There is more chance of it snapping as it’s weaker.

Ah! That makes sense (see below)!

I believe what he meant was that if entire Parallel Section, plus a section of the (thinner walled) flexing part of the shaft was within the (Bored Through) head, then flexing within the head and weakness at the hosel would mean a weaker and likelihood of snapping!
Not sure whether there are any 'modern' bore-through heads these days anyway (at least not fully BT ones) as adjustable hosels 'clash' with the concept somewhat!

 

[spongebob59]

I've a spare driver shaft that I'd like to trim to use as a fairway.

I'm assuming if I cut at tip section it will make it play softer or butt end firmer.

Is there a rule how much to take off (tip/butt or both?)

First attempt at this so best not guess

TIA

as if by magic a suitable shaft has been found on the bay, so no need to do this atm, although I do fancy having a go at some stage, but would need to remove an adaptor which I understand is not so straight forward.

 

[clubchamp98]

as if by magic a suitable shaft has been found on the bay, so no need to do this atm, although I do fancy having a go at some stage, but would need to remove an adaptor which I understand is not so straight forward.

It’s fairly easy but ruins the adapter paint finish.

 

[spongebob59]

It’s fairly easy but ruins the adapter paint finish.

Any specialist equipment needed, ? Seen videos and seemed to need a heat gun and shaft puller.

 

[clubchamp98]

Any specialist equipment needed, ? Seen videos and seemed to need a heat gun and shaft puller.

I have done one with just pliers and heat gun but wouldn’t recommend it on a good shaft .
You must pull it off straight.
You need a rubber clamp for the shaft as well and a vice or workmate.

 

[jim8flog]

Any specialist equipment needed, ? Seen videos and seemed to need a heat gun and shaft puller.

Plus one on the comment about it losing the paint finish on the adapter but adapters are very cheap from China via ebay.

I would also echo the comment about make sure you pull straight, any twisting unravels the carbon layers. Too much heat and the carbon will 'explode' so have something to hand to quickly cool down the shaft. Personally I take the view that if it does blow or fray I am at least left with a fairway wood shaft to sell.

I just use a pair of wire strippers which open at the end rather than the side.

For a shaft clamp if you have an old grip around the place which has been split from end to end just cut off the butt end.