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10-iron - is it worth a punt

viscount17

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I have what seems a huge gap between PW and 9-iron - anything around mid 120's and I'm struggling, and I seem to be there a lot. Why that should be I know not as my clubs are stepped equally, so should, in theory at least, yield regular steps in range.
Overhitting the PW isn't an option, I lose all sense of direction and a gentle draw degenerates into a viscious hook. Under-hitting a 9-i doesn't work either, if it's straight it'll be, almost invariably, very, very short.
Altering the lofts I have seems a losing bet, it will just move the gap. Therefore getting a 10-i would seem all that's left - since I have a fitted set, +1.5 in., that will mean getting a club built specially - not going to be cheap, and less so if they have to build the head too.

lack-a-day
 
My 10 iron has got me out of trouble loads of times, loft is 46*.
I find myself argueing between a 9 and pitch then remember I have the 10 in the bag. Sometimes it comes out and the 3i goes in, dependant on the course type.

CK
 
I'd have the lofts checked in the first instance before doing anything. Also what about a couple of lessons learning how to play the knockdown shot or the punch.
 
didn't even know you could get a 10 iron :S I would say practice gripping down your 9 iron or maybe get a lesson on the knockdown shot
 
I have what seems a huge gap between PW and 9-iron - anything around mid 120's and I'm struggling, and I seem to be there a lot.

There is your problem....the times you are in the 120 yard area. The easiest way and cheapest way, is don't get to that distance. Adjust your approach to the 2nd shot (or 3rd as the case may be) so you are either at your PW or 9 Iron distance.

The other way to think about it is if you are at 120 and you don't like to under or over hit...then use the PW, which you know will leave you short by what...10-15 yards? ..leave it short by that distance and then a nice gentle bump and run onto the green, leaving it close to the pin and viola, in for a par..or is your handicap allows, for a 2 putt net par!
 
I think you need to seriously look at the lofts of yoru 9 and PW. Most PW are coming in around the 44-46 degree mark depending on manufacturer. The R11 comes in at 45 degree and so I have a 52 and 58 to give me a reasonable gap. A 10 is usually a gap wedge so will be around the 50-52 degree mark and so I'd look at your PW loft and then see if you'd be better off getting the 10 depending on spec or something like a 52/54 to fill the gap
 
I think you need to seriously look at the lofts of yoru 9 and PW. Most PW are coming in around the 44-46 degree mark depending on manufacturer. The R11 comes in at 45 degree and so I have a 52 and 58 to give me a reasonable gap. A 10 is usually a gap wedge so will be around the 50-52 degree mark and so I'd look at your PW loft and then see if you'd be better off getting the 10 depending on spec or something like a 52/54 to fill the gap

But his problem is not at the 52 or 54 area though Homer. His problem is in-between clubs of the 9 and PW @ 120 yards...he needs something like a 42 degree...but I still ask why? I would think that most people are only about 10 to 15 yards difference between clubs are they not? Course management comes to my mind, know your favourite "to green" distance and play back from there.
 
Steve

The problem has to lie in the loft of his clubs as there should be some degree of consistancy throughout a set (assuming they are all the same make of course) and that a 9 might go 120 and a PW 100. I think the OP need to look at how far he is hitting the 9 and PW and then decide how he tackles shots fron <100 yards and wheter a gap (52 for example) will let him hit fuller shots or whether he wants to try and hit little half shots with the wedge or 9 iron
 
But a 52 is higher loft than his PW and he is already short at the 120 distance with his PW and long with his 9 Iron....at least that's the way I read it. A 52* will be even shorter than his PW and I thought was supposed to fill the void between the PW (46) and SW(56).
 
I agree with Bob, 120 yards is perfect for a nice 9 iron shot. If you hit it further then learn a method to hit it shorter, you can choke down, make a shorter backswing or swing a little slower. To be a good player you need to know how to do this. You should be able to chip a 9 iron 5 yards, pitch it 80, swing it to anything between 80 and 130 and just about anything inbetween.

I suggest some sessions on the practice ground with your 9 iron.
 
I love how precise people are with their irons.

A nine iron for me is anywhere from 100 yards to 140 odd depending on how I hit it. Often it can be longer than my 6 iron, which can be longer than my 4 iron.

I guess this is why I want lessons, but it didn't stop me from getting to single figures (it didn't keep me there though).

Use the 9 iron. So if you flush it it may be long. Most of the time it will still be short, I bet.
 
140 yds = easy 7 iron

140 = full 9/easy 8-iron but that puts me into the hit it soft, hit it short territory

Oh good, 5 wedges
120 yds is perfect for a 9 iron Steve
maybe in winter, but in summer it's not, then 120 = PW, it's that gap between 120+ and 135 that's the trouble
and I plan to leave out the LW so still only four

still you're right about one thing homer, and that is getting the lofts checked. it was a new set at the beginning of the year but that could still mean they may now be out. I can't remember the figures, got them at home, but I think the PW is 47.5.

steve, you too are right about course management, but I'm not that good - yet

and I do hit chips and pitches with a 9, also GW to a 7, but to me, 125-ish isn't either
 
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