Which drill bit for a lintel?

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IanM

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Donna had me putting up a blind this morning above a window. Can only fix the brackets above due to the position.

Sounding like the office boy I am, it must be a steel lintel as my masonry drill won‘t touch it.. I’ve got a bit box of my dads old drills I don’t actually know what a steel drill bit looks like.

Ive Googled it, and you’d have thought there’d be a visual comparison.

Any clues for duffers like me? I’ll have resort to embarrassing myself by asking next door!
 

jim8flog

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If it is a roller blind turn the bracket to the right direction and fit inside the window recess with the brackets being screwed on to the side wall.

If you have steel lintels it can quite a problem getting a drill to go through them.

You may however have hit a stone in the concrete.

If you have a concrete lintel get tungsten carbide tipped drills to start with just a very small one, I use one about 2mm, to check how far it will go before drilling out with the correct size for the job. Remember to use the hammer setting on the drill.

The difference between a tungsten carbide tipped (masonry) drill and a normal HSS drill is the tip. TC tipped have tips that are wider than the stem.

I would add if it is steel do not try to drill out to the correct size in one go start at about 2mm and work up in 2mm increments to widen the hole each time.

Alternative 3 is to use no nails grip adhesive.
 

GreiginFife

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HSS drill bit, sharp, some oil and, this is important, drill slowly.

Check for heat regularly and
Relubricate as necessary. Keep heat down, drill slow.
 
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IanM

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Cordless drill....inside the window recess is plastic type edging which drilling will make mess.

Looks like off to Wicks in the morning for an HSS drill bit, what ever that is:D
 

rulefan

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Cordless drill....inside the window recess is plastic type edging which drilling will make mess.

Looks like off to Wicks in the morning for an HSS drill bit, what ever that is:D
Can you attach a photo of the window frame and surround
 

bobmac

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Cordless drill....inside the window recess is plastic type edging which drilling will make mess.

Looks like off to Wicks in the morning for an HSS drill bit, what ever that is:D
If that still doesn't work, try and borrow a corded drill, they are generally more powerful
 

jim8flog

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Cordless drill....inside the window recess is plastic type edging which drilling will make mess.

Looks like off to Wicks in the morning for an HSS drill bit, what ever that is:D
HSS drills are the type you find in virtually everybody's DIY kit there is nothing special about them.

We refer to them as HSS drills as opposed to tungsten carbide tipped (masonry drill) or wood drill

masonry drill
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-masonry-drill-bit-6-x-100mm/2795v
HSS drill
https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-straight-shank-hss-drill-bit-4-x-75mm-2-pack/222hh
wood drills
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-auger-wood-drill-bit-165-x-25mm/1322v#_=p
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flat-wood-bit-set-7-pieces/8143v#_=p

If you are still going to Wickes
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-HSS-Drill-Bit-Set---1-5-6-5mm-Pack-of-13/p/168108
 

Golfmmad

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I would use a 2.5mm hss bit first and then 3.5 or a 4mm to widen the hole.
Don't use an old used bit as chances are it will be blunt.
I agree with Bob, a corded drill is preferable as more speed is needed to get through a steel lintel.
It's a good idea to wear protection goggles too.
Another tip, dip screw in a little washing up liquid to ease it through metal.
I speak from 30 years experience of fitting blinds.
 

SocketRocket

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If it's a steel lintel then drill a smaller hole (Pilot hole) first with a HSS drill, 2.5 mm should be OK, then open up with the finished size. Don't let the drill get too hot so low speed and keep pulling the drill back every few seconds to clear away any swarf. As previously advised use a coolant like water or tallow. Don't use a hammer action.
 
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