Thermal insulating Gyproc 22mm thick ?

williamalex1

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I'm thinking of adding this on top of the existing plasterboard in our 6x5 timber-framed single-story extension built back in 1999.
The extension doesn't hold the heat as well as the original parts of the house.
The ceiling space could have more insulation installed by making a few hatches, but I don't fancy having to remove all the Gyproc from the walls.
Any information/thoughts would be helpful.
TIA
 
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Robster59

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I'll be interested in the response for this. In our new house, we have noticed that the room above the garage is a lot colder than anywhere else. The previous occupents have already applied some insulation to the wall and ceiling, but I'm thinking of trying to improve on it.
 

Bunkermagnet

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I'll be interested in the response for this. In our new house, we have noticed that the room above the garage is a lot colder than anywhere else. The previous occupents have already applied some insulation to the wall and ceiling, but I'm thinking of trying to improve on it.
Don't forget the floor, which is where I imagine most of the cold is coming from.
 

Bunkermagnet

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The floor has a really thick underlay and a thick pile-carpet (y)
My brother has a house with a side passage that goes under a bedroom. That bedroom was always difficult to keep warm even with a good underlay and carpet, but he cured that by insulating the ceiling over the passage (under the bedroom floor). It stopped the cold transmitting through the structure and made the room so much better:)
 

williamalex1

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My brother has a house with a side passage that goes under a bedroom. That bedroom was always difficult to keep warm even with a good underlay and carpet, but he cured that by insulating the ceiling over the passage (under the bedroom floor). It stopped the cold transmitting through the structure and made the room so much better:)
Cheers mate, I see your point, but below the extension floor is exactly the same as the rest of the ground floor (y).
 

SwingsitlikeHogan

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Our single story extension currently being built is wrapped up in a thermal blanket…the thickness of the insulation that has gone into the cavity, floor and roof 😳 - with the roof it makes the roof depth quite extraordinary, much deeper than I ever would have imagined.
 

GreiginFife

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Type of insulation is as important as the amount IMO.

Under floors (and where possible in wall cavities if stripping plasterboard etc to bare studs) I’d be looking at 75mm PIR insulation as a minimum where possible (or 50mm if stud cavities are shallow).


Warmest and most thermally efficient room we’ve got is actually the garden room/workshop I built last year, PIR under the floor, I’m the walls and in the ceiling means it retains the heat superbly with minimal cold via thermal bridging (it’s a timber structure after all).

Also try not to assume that just because a room is built the same as another that there isn’t scope for difference. Especially under the floor that you can’t see. Could be closer to a wall or a vent that gets cold air to it more often and quicker than another.

Carpets are a good way to insulate but nothing beats actual insulation.

I did a lot (and I mean a LOT) of reading and analysing insulation when building the workshop.
 

williamalex1

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Our single story extension currently being built is wrapped up in a thermal blanket…the thickness of the insulation that has gone into the cavity, floor and roof 😳 - with the roof it makes the roof depth quite extraordinary, much deeper than I ever would have imagined.
Before the outer brick walls went up ours was wrapped on the outside in some kind of black moisture-proof paper stuff and probably not enough glass wool between the studs, I think that's our main problem.
 
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