Forged heads and shaft (2 part question)

One Planer

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2 Part question for the people in the know.

Part 1: Forged heads

Can you use a metal polish, for example Autosol, to remove rust specs from the heads without damaging the finish?

Part 2: Shafts (Probably one for Ethan this)

My R7 irons have TM's own T-Step 90 shafts, regular flex. They are a 90g Steel shaft (.370 tip dia). My MP-32's have True Temper Dynamic Gold R300, which I believe are 127g (With the same tip) again in steel.

With the True Temper I have noticed have a lower ball flight that is much more penetrating, which I prefer. My question. Will the TT DG play a little firmer than the T-Step due to the increased gram weight?

As always, any thaoughts appreciated :thup:
 

AmandaJR

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My Mizuno forged irons showed a few spots on the wedges so I took them to the pro shop who cleaned them up. They just used a sponge/pan scourer with neat washing up liquid and they came up a treat.

Whether that's the best way I don't know but I continued to maintain them that way and it was fine. No obvious signs of wear on the faces as a result.
 

One Planer

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My Mizuno forged irons showed a few spots on the wedges so I took them to the pro shop who cleaned them up. They just used a sponge/pan scourer with neat washing up liquid and they came up a treat.

Whether that's the best way I don't know but I continued to maintain them that way and it was fine. No obvious signs of wear on the faces as a result.

Thanks for that Amanda.

I'm a little reluctant to use an abrasive cloth, such as a scourer, for fear of damaging the finish. Hence the question regarding metal polish and a soft cloth.
 

Monty_Brown

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I'm a little reluctant to use an abrasive cloth, such as a scourer, for fear of damaging the finish.

Smacking them repeatedly into the ground will tend to affect the finish! You'll be putting irons covers on them next :ears:

On a more helpful note...

Is there any info on the Mizzy site on club care? You might be able to email their customer service team?
 

One Planer

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Smacking them repeatedly into the ground will tend to affect the finish! You'll be putting irons covers on them next :ears:

On a more helpful note...

Is there any info on the Mizzy site on club care? You might be able to email their customer service team?

Smart arse :ears:
 

One Planer

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Found something on the Mizuno page (USA version)

My forged irons have rust showing up on the face of the club. Is this normal?


Yes, rust can happen. Forged heads are made of mild carbon steel that is chrome plated. Once you start hitting balls you scratch the surface of the chrome, which can eventually expose the raw steel to moisture, and chemicals that can cause rust to form. The best way to minimize rust is to keep the irons dry at all times, wipe them after every shot and at the end of the round with a dry cloth. When cleaning use only a NYLON brush (no metal) and dry them with a dry towel. If you get some rust forming, spray the surface with WD-40 and clean with a nylon brush or Scotchbrite pad and wipe them clean with a dry cloth. Some high nitrogen fertilizers, sandy soil conditions and water with high iron content can accelerate the production of rust. The use of iron head covers is not recommended as they trap moisture and accelerate the production of rust.

It then says

In addition to WD 40 you can also try gun cleaner... many new firearms have nickel / carbon steel slide and frames and a good gun cleaner (CLP) will clean it without damaging the finish etc.

Only in America :rofl:
 

GreiginFife

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Gareth I know this is going to sound silly but I cleaned up an old Vokey that had gone a bit rusty by soaking it in Cola (the well known brand) for a few hours, wiping them off with a cloth and then into warm water with washing up liquid for another few hours and then wiped with a soft nail brush and the effect was amazing.
I now use the same warm water/washing up liquid on my MP52's after every round and it works a treat.
 

One Planer

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Gareth I know this is going to sound silly but I cleaned up an old Vokey that had gone a bit rusty by soaking it in Cola (the well known brand) for a few hours, wiping them off with a cloth and then into warm water with washing up liquid for another few hours and then wiped with a soft nail brush and the effect was amazing.
I now use the same warm water/washing up liquid on my MP52's after every round and it works a treat.

I've heard the Cola thing before, but only on old pennies.

I clean my clubs after every round, always have. I just use the suds though and as little water as possible.
 
D

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Gareth

The DG TT is designed to be a low launch shaft. This is due to a couple of factors, weight being one of them. They have a high kickpoint which produces a low launch. The weight of the shaft has an effect on the spin rates produced (along with the design of the head) As a general rule, the heavier the shaft the less spin it will produce. Higher (back)spin produces loft. The heavier weight won't necessarily affect the flex but it will have more of an impact on the spin rate and definitely an affect on the swing weight of the club.

If you put some DG TT's in your MP32's you won't necessarily get an identical flight as the TM's due to the design of the clubhead but if the head designs are similar then the flight won't be a million miles out.
 

One Planer

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If you put some DG TT's in your MP32's you won't necessarily get an identical flight as the TM's due to the design of the clubhead but if the head designs are similar then the flight won't be a million miles out.

Well, the Mizzys come with TT DG R300 in them now and was wondering how the R300 ould compare (flex wise) to the T-Step 90's hence the question.

Interesting what you mention about spin rates though. :thup:
 
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Sorry mate, I've got no experience of the T Step shaft so can't comment on them.
 

Ethan

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The issue of launch and spin is complicated and relates to more than plain weight. The TT DG is a heavy shaft but actually tends to be a mid-highish spin shaft compared to some other shafts, and some players note a low takeoff but then climbing and ballooning. PX and KBS will both tend to have a higher launch but lower spin.

The T-step is somewhat similar to the TT Dynalite Gold SL, so in my opinion, they play a bit softer and hit the ball higher than TT DG of the same flex. In R flex, the T-step would be a fairly soft shaft.
 

One Planer

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The issue of launch and spin is complicated and relates to more than plain weight. The TT DG is a heavy shaft but actually tends to be a mid-highish spin shaft compared to some other shafts, and some players note a low takeoff but then climbing and ballooning. PX and KBS will both tend to have a higher launch but lower spin.

The T-step is somewhat similar to the TT Dynalite Gold SL, so in my opinion, they play a bit softer and hit the ball higher than TT DG of the same flex. In R flex, the T-step would be a fairly soft shaft.

Cheers Ethan. That's answered my question :thup:
 

One Planer

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Rather than start a new thread, I thought it best to add it to this one as it's loosely related.

I spent half and hour earlier scrubbing the heads of my irons with WD-40 and a nylon brush to remove the small rust pits that had formed on the back of the heads and in some of the grooves.

I have to say it's done an excellent job

546379_3639196419895_1273812828_3384365_952271271_n.jpg


Question: How often should you oil forged irons to prevent rust and/or pitting?
 

chris661

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Question: How often should you oil forged irons to prevent rust and/or pitting?

Well I have been playing with mine for over two years and the height of protection that they get is taken out ofmy bag if it has been raining, so my answer is never :rolleyes: ;)
 

chris661

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Metal = mild steel (if forged) which rusts.:(

Main thing is if they get wet dry them (don't leave them in the boot or grarage).

A quick wipe with some WD-40 now and again may be worth it.

Which is why I said they get taken out of my bag if it has been raining :rolleyes:
 
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