Data from GC2... feel free to decode

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vkurup

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Got my data from my MOT. We were using GC2.
1) First up was the TM Burner 2.0 7i which is a go-to club these days. The balls were a bit right of target but not by much

2) Next up the driver. I am struggling with my driver as I am blocking it to the right or have a good fade (just not enough to call a slice). As i use a Nike Covert with stiff shaft, I had set it to 'Close' face... but that was not enough to bring the ball back. I suspect in real life a closed or a Neutral face on my Nike almost makes no difference.

3) I can never hit my Taylormade Burner Superfast 3-W. The stock shaft feels pretty whippy to me. So no surprise that I can put a few revs using the 3-W.

MOT-figures.jpg

Thats the background. Current things we are discussing
1) Adjust the loft & lie back to regular
2) Replace shaft of 3W with a Matrix Ozik 6Q3 Red Tie in stiff
3) (under consideration, but unlikely) look at progressive increased taper to help rotate the clubs at impact. This will be done by thickening under the top of the grips to allow a free moving right hand to get the ball to start straighter.

Let the debate begin....
 
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vkurup

Guest
JUST one observation. The driver launch angle is very low. I get more carry with my 90 to 92 swing speed with a launch of 15 or 16 degrees. Loft up! It's all the rage.

:whistle:

As per my MOT, while the driver is set to 11.5, it is actually at 13.4 after I closed it (dont ask how)... On a regular day, it is set to neutral though. Pro has asked the lie to be altered by +2. Will recheck during my next session when we get down to gappings
 
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vkurup

Guest
Those face to path / face to target would imply a strong fade, sometimes leading into a push-slice. Is that right?

Agree.. i hit a fade from my 5i upwards... under that I am pretty much inline (though slightly to the right)

Average of 17 yards of roll with the 7 iron seems a lot to me??

Agree... it is under 'ideal' conditions. Also dont forget that it is a TM iron, so creates revs to carry it further (ironically 17y more :))
 
V

vkurup

Guest
7 iron going 170 and 3 wood going 179?? Is that right (total distance)


Yup.. and thats the problem maitey..

In the last few weeks, I have been going to my 7i for 160ish in the real world too (e.g. Our P3 18th, anything longer than the 7i would be in the car park).

My 3W is a fruit loop and is indeed based on luck on where it will go. Hence dont pull it out any more. I am more likely to use a 3 or 4hyrid and lay up. I have a massive gap between my driver and hybrids.

My general rule in play is my driving distance is about 230-250y carry depending on how i 'catch it'. Last Monday, twice I drove about 270y. I just need to get consistent. The issue I have is how far offline I am going - in one of the drives I am about 55y right of target.

The big difference between the 7i and the Driver is the smash factor. For some reason, i did not get the data,but on that day, I was avg my 7i smash factor at 1.35 (v good) and my driver was about 1.4 (not so good). So I need to do something to improve that smash factor. (all tips welcome)
 

Foxholer

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First time I have seen GC2 output, so I've made a couple of assumptions about positive vs negative numbers from how you describe your shot shape.

7i looks fairly solid if somewhat inconsistent and maybe not quite as efficient as it could be!

Looks like you are simply failing to 'get the face back to square' on the Driver and also failing to hit up on the ball. Also either probably not hitting it out of the middle or GC2 simply measures impact to target numbers rather than the hypotenuse of the triangle. I'd figure it's coming a bit out of the heel.

Lots of 'side-spin' and on a couple, so look like slices. Others just look inefficient and blocky. The last one, hit pretty straight/touch of draw. Ball speed was highest in spite of middle-ish swing speed.

3W numbers are just rubbish! You obviously don't trust it! If it feels too whippy, that will be why. A proper stiff shaft should make a huge difference!

To improve the driver, tee the ball up higher - even further than you think you should. And quite forward. Then make sure you torso (only - weight still at least 80% on the lead foot) is leaning slightly back at impact - body in a Reverse-K shape is the term. That should get Launch up significantly. Path could be a little more in-to-out, but the main thing to do first is to square the face at impact. Your Coach is the guy to advise how, or simply try various thoughts yourself - cricket shot swung to mid-off but hit back past the bowler? Tennis topspin down the line? (definitely not cross-court!) Finishing the swing high with arms over shoulder or maybe with them level with it? Whatever works for you! I have a thought that works for me, but is completely wrong for others!
 

Foxholer

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That looks quite an old 'guide' - and doesn't show the HMT info that was provided by the spots you had on the 7i and Driver. It did clarify Azimuth for me though.

The Swing Speed, at least for HMT entries, is now actual swing speed rather than Ball speed/1.5 (for Driver).

Doesn't change the advice though. Get that face square and hit it out of the middle! And do something about the 3W!
 
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vkurup

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That looks quite an old 'guide' - and doesn't show the HMT info that was provided by the spots you had on the 7i and Driver. It did clarify Azimuth for me though.

The Swing Speed, at least for HMT entries, is now actual swing speed rather than Ball speed/1.5 (for Driver).

Doesn't change the advice though. Get that face square and hit it out of the middle! And do something about the 3W!

Cant find anything on the HMT data...

My smash factor works out as
7i = 1.34, 1.35, 1.38, 1.36 >> Avg 1.36 >> I am told that it is a good figure to have
Driver = 1.40, 1.37, 1.39, 1.43 >> Avg 1.40 >> I am told I need to get this much better

I used to be a half decent driver last year and not so good with my iron, looks like 2014 is the other way round!!

yup, the shaft of the 3W is being ripped out and being replaced by a matrix red tie stiff.
 
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