Titleist 917F2 Advice Needed - 13.5 or 15 Degree?

[gmhubble]

Hi all

Normally have 15 degree and 18 degree Fairway wood in my bag

Also hit the 15 degree as my Driver 9/10

Am going to buy a pair of 917F2's tomorrow and wondered if going 13.5 and 18 was better than 15 and 18

The 13.5 can be adjusted up to 15 or down to 12.75 but the 15 can only be adjusted down to 14.25

Thought it might give me better options?

Agree?

Ian

 

[Region3]

I'd say you want the lofts to give a nice yardage gap rather than worrying about the number of degrees between them.

Will you have the chance to hit them first?

Also, (although I obviously don't know your game) some people will struggle to launch a 13.5° fairway wood, especially off the fairway. Just another thing to bear in mind.

 

[Region3]

Another thought re gapping - I'd rather increase the 5 wood loft to make a nice gap than decrease the 3 wood.

 

[Imurg]

Another thought re gapping - I'd rather increase the 5 wood loft to make a nice gap than decrease the 3 wood.

That would work for me....
Most people would be better off with more loft on their fairways....
Low lofted ones need excellent technique and a decent swingspeed to make them work properly.
Why no driver..?

 

[KenL]

A 13.5 deg 3 wood is not an easy club to launch unless you are an excellent ball striker with a pretty high swing speed. Most players would probably hit a 15 deg 3 wood further on average.

 

[Parsaregood]

It would basically come down to the individual player. Some people hit a 5 wood further than a 3 wood because they deloft and present it with a lower dynamic loft than loft printed on the club hence not getting enough launch on a 3 wood. It can also work the opposite way, you should go and get fit.

 

[MadAdey]

Hi all

Normally have 15 degree and 18 degree Fairway wood in my bag

Also hit the 15 degree as my Driver 9/10

Am going to buy a pair of 917F2's tomorrow and wondered if going 13.5 and 18 was better than 15 and 18

The 13.5 can be adjusted up to 15 or down to 12.75 but the 15 can only be adjusted down to 14.25

Thought it might give me better options?

Agree?

Ian

I would never advise anyone to get a 13.5 3w, most people find they can hit 16.5 further than a 15. Problem is if you are not getting it to launch properly it will never fly to it's maximum distance, so loosing distance. I have the loft on my 15* 3w increased and I find I hit it just as far as when it is de-lofted, but with the extra loft it carries further.

Being able to hit a strong 3w well is going into the realms of being good enough to hit a bladed 2i off the deck.

 

[Alex1975]

Just be aware that if you change the 13.5 to 15 it will close the face quite a bit.

 

[garyinderry]

I would never advise anyone to get a 13.5 3w, most people find they can hit 16.5 further than a 15. Problem is if you are not getting it to launch properly it will never fly to it's maximum distance, so loosing distance. I have the loft on my 15* 3w increased and I find I hit it just as far as when it is de-lofted, but with the extra loft it carries further.

Being able to hit a strong 3w well is going into the realms of being good enough to hit a bladed 2i off the deck.

Agree with aidy. I had a 13 degree Mizuno 3 wood. Long as hell off the tee. Awful off the turf. Couldn't get it to launch at all.

Currently considering swapping my 15 degree 3 wood for a 16.5 . I don't launch the 15 degree anywhere near high enough off the deck for my liking.

 

[MadAdey]

Agree with aidy. I had a 13 degree Mizuno 3 wood. Long as hell off the tee. Awful off the turf. Couldn't get it to launch at all.

Currently considering swapping my 15 degree 3 wood for a 16.5 . I don't launch the 15 degree anywhere near high enough off the deck for my liking.

I went through a phase of not using a driver and had an RBZ Stage 2 TS 3w. It too went for miles off the tee, but was crap off the deck. At the same time I was using Mizzy MP33 and had the 2i and I could hit that off the deck really well, but not a strong 3w, I think that puts it perspective just how hard it is to hit one well.

 

[mikejohnchapman]

Biggest issue will be the shaft in terms of the launch. Really need to hit a few on the launch monitor to get the best combination.

As has been mentioned adding / lowering loft impacts the face angle so not always the best solution.

 

[Parsaregood]

There is an easier solution - start practicing with your driver. Why wouldn't you use one, it's probably easier to hit than a 3 wood, much bigger head, more forgiving and will go 30+ yards further

 

[Sats]

See what happens in your fitting, as you might find that you might not need that setup. If you can see if you can hit it on a course/ hole - if its possible of course.

 

[srixon 1]

Just be aware that if you change the 13.5 to 15 it will close the face quite a bit.

I thought that the Titleist surefit system lets you move the loft without changing the face angle. You just need to get the setting right.

 

[Region3]

I thought that the Titleist surefit system lets you move the loft without changing the face angle. You just need to get the setting right.

It alters how the club sits in relation to the shaft, so that when you move it to make it look square again you are effectively opening and closing it to alter the loft presented.

 

[VVega]

It alters how the club sits in relation to the shaft, so that when you move it to make it look square again you are effectively opening and closing it to alter the loft presented.

Slightly different afaik. The loft change is achieved by openning/closing the face and then squaring the soled club.

E.g. If the standard loft is 15, the standard position A1 would have the face open 0.5* at this loft. Moving to a position of +2* more loft will actually close the face by 2.5* but if you sole the club and square the face you'd get the same 0.5 open face but +2* degree loft. That's why the call it "effective loft" on the Surefit charts.