Steel/Graphite......so which would you go for ?

Macster

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Puzzling me this...........

For a while now, I've been struggling with a cut/fade on my Drives, even though I play with a nice draw mostly with my irons, and whatever I do, I just cant find the Draw with the big fella.
It has a Graphite Design YSQ stiff shaft in, fitted by Titleist, which was supposedly gonna help square the face at impact more than the Aldila thats in my old G5. However, the same damn cut persists at the moment, interspersed with the occasional very straight one which does go a mile.

However, I have a vintage Cally WarBird 5 wood, with a steel shaft in , and which not only goes great distance, (220/230), but nearly always with a draw too.

I do have a rather troublesome left knee, which may be the reason for the cuts, ie, perhaps collapsing a bit as I swing harder with the Driver, but I dunno.

Maybe I should put a Steel shaft in that too ? :D
 
Had a discussion with the asst at our place few weeks ago. My bad shot with my 3 wood is a fade, especially off the deck. He wreckons because the shaft is longer I dont let the head catch up to the hands fast enough and leave the face open slightly. I find by setting the club up with my hands slightly back the head catches up in time. Might be something as simple as that. If i want(try) to fade, i just push the hands forward at setup slightly.
 
I have to be honest and say I have been much better since I switched from steel shafted clubs to graphites. I've gained about 5 yards per club and the dispersion is much tighter.

HJS I have to say the same thing my friend taught me a few things +2 handicapper.
 
Maybe try a lower torque shaft in your driver to play a little more like steel

Graffloy Epic etc

Although if you can draw everything apart from the driver maybe a quick lesson to see what is the problem
 
I have to be honest and say I have been much better since I switched from steel shafted clubs to graphites. I've gained about 5 yards per club and the dispersion is much tighter.

HJS I have to say the same thing my friend taught me a few things +2 handicapper.

What??? You have to say the same thing, so you have switched to Graphite shafts and have gained 5 yards per club? If so, what has this got to do with your friend teaching you a few things?

I dont get it.
 
I do have a rather troublesome left knee, which may be the reason for the cuts, ie, perhaps collapsing a bit as I swing harder with the Driver, but I dunno.

Maybe I should put a Steel shaft in that too ? :D

That dodgy knee wouldn't be an old rugby injury by any chance? I used to play with a ChrisMc many years ago, seem to recall that Chris having to give it up through a knee injury!
 
I certainly don't think putting a steel in your driver sounds ideal.

I have a collection of woods with various graphite shafts. I have to say that I DO notice a difference with certain makes. The Fujikura in my 3 wood is simply the dogs and all 3 of my ageing Callaways (RCH of some sort) are good as gold.

I particularly like the Grafalloy pro launch red, whereas the blue (in my rescue) is bit dodgy. Out of the 55g (orange) and 65g (green) Aldila, I seem to get better results with the 55g.

I don't read too much into these things (especially following all the posts rubbishing graphite shafts and outlandish claims) but either certain types of shaft seem more reliable for my swing or it's just me liking certain clubs.

Maybe you should see if there are any drivers like yours in range/pro shops with different shafts, you might find a better one for your game......

I have YS design shafts in my irons and find them fine....but the big dog is a different deal....
 
It has a Graphite Design YSQ stiff shaft in, fitted by Titleist, which was supposedly gonna help square the face at impact more than the Aldila thats in my old G5. However, the same damn cut persists at the moment, interspersed with the occasional very straight one which does go a mile.

Probably an oversimplification, but I thought stiffer shafts were meant to stop you getting so much action through the ball, to make hooking it harder. IE keep the clubhead squarer at impact. Is it possible your shaft is too stiff, and you're not getting enough action where you need it ?

Or is the grip itself bigger than in your other clubs ? That'll restrict your hand action too, won't it ?

Just a thought :D
 
I'd have a look at your set-up first. Maybe the ball is a little too far forward. Try inching it back a little.

I think you hit the nail on the head when you said you try and welly the driver a bit more than other clubs. What's probably happening is you're arms are getting left behind as you get out of sync. It doesn't matter how good your mechanics are if you lose connection between your arms and body you'll leave the face open slightly.

Is it a straight ball that cuts or a push or pull fade?
 
23rdman: More a straight ball that cuts at the moment, but traditionally, my bad shots have always been a push or low hook.

CrapHacker: The shaft was fitted at Titleist and to be honest, we did try quite a few shafts, including Regular and various differing specs, but they finally advised the YSQ as altho its Stiff, has a slightly softer tip apparently which should help square the face for me.
My swing speed is very constant 100mph, so not overly fast, but not slow, and this shaft showed the best dispersion results - on that day !

I think its perhaps more to do with my knee at the moment, so as soon as I can play properly again post surgery, perhaps in a week or 2, I'l get a lesson sorted and see what they think.
 
In that case mate I think it's mostly down to just going for it a bit hard. We're very similar levels and I know I leak it right if I start my backswing a bit quick and let it get a bit long and loose at the top. Whenever I keep my turn to 90* and in control (funnily enough the same as my irons!) I hit it straight with a touch of draw.
 
In most cases I have come across, the reason people slice or fade their driver is this.

The big stick comes out, the wind-up starts, the hips start to change direction too soon and the timing has gone.
If the hips start the downswing too soon, that throws the top half outside the line, the swing path is out to in and the golfer doesnt release the clubhead at impact for fear of the straight pull.
The clubface remains open through impact, hence the left to right ball flight.
When hitting the driver next, try this thought.
What goes back goes back together, what comes down comes down together.
It doesn't work for every one as we are all different, but it should improve the timing of your golf swing.
HTH :)
 
In most cases I have come across, the reason people slice or fade their driver is this.

The big stick comes out, the wind-up starts, the hips start to change direction too soon and the timing has gone.
If the hips start the downswing too soon, that throws the top half outside the line, the swing path is out to in and the golfer doesnt release the clubhead at impact for fear of the straight pull.
The clubface remains open through impact, hence the left to right ball flight.
When hitting the driver next, try this thought.
What goes back goes back together, what comes down comes down together.
It doesn't work for every one as we are all different, but it should improve the timing of your golf swing.
HTH :)

Very true, Bob! One of the best swing thoughts I use for the driver is to turn everything back through together. This nearly always sorts my timing out.
 
Hi Bob,

Thats interesting, it is something that had crept into my game with my G5 before I got the 909 this year, so could well be exactly what you say in an effort for maximum distance that we all do from time to time.
Perhaps me more than most

I think I'll slow things a little, 3/4 swing perhaps, and rebuild from there, but as I say, it'l be a week or 2 before I can start playing properly again anyway, perhaps by then it will have miraculously disapeared anyway :D
 
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