Right....thats it........Driver binned.

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Macster

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For too long now, the Driver has been my Achilles Heel, when its good, its long, but more often than not, it puts me in trouble, and I'm sick of seeing that Drive that starts straight, then turns right just as I start smiling.

Strangely, it never happens with my steel shafted R7 3 wood, a club I can hit a nice Draw with relatively reliably.

So, - who uses a 'Strong 3' ? Very tempted to source one, - something a bit stronger than a 15* 3, for that bit more length, without being as useless to me as a Driver.

Ive decided, if I am to stay down in Single Figures, I need to find fairways.......not yards.

Anyone ?
 
Why don't you look for a 12 or 13 degree driver. Failing that I bought a 2 wood a few years ago when I was struggling with the big dog and that helped me through the bad times.
 
I carry a 10.5 degree driver and a 13.5 degree driver that I use as a strong 3 wood and only use it off the tee. I use a 5 wood off the deck. This gives me the advantage of the larger head of the driver over a standard 3 wood. It works really well and it is very straight. Apparently most fittings at Ping now recommend a 12 degree driver. If I were you I would consider being fitted for a driver as the one you use obviously doesn't suit you. Off your handicap, I think you would really benefit you and it may not be about staying in single figures but going lower into single figures. Alternatively, if your R7 3 wood works so well, just go with that. Good luck.
 
I've got a Strong 3 Cally Steelhead in the bag now
Steel shaft and good for 240 off the tee or deck.
Admittedly a little harder to hit off the deck than a 15 but not unduly so.

Got the 5 wood too. The gaps in loft are quite small between 5 and 3 in this range. 16 for the 3 and 17.5 for the 5 hence opting for the 3+.
It's working for me...
You should be able to find a Warbird 3+ to match your 4 and 7 for next to nothing on The Bay.....
 
Im the same,cant hit a driver for love nor money consistently.
I have,and use the TM Burner 3 and 5 woods.
The 3 wood is so easy to hit,on and off the tee.
With the conditions as they are I find I get so much run I don't need a driver.
Also im more likely to find the short stuff more regulary.
I must admit though if I could hit a driver im sure theres another 20-30 yards there.
 
Macster said:
I'm sick of seeing that Drive that starts straight, then turns right just as I start smiling.
Click to expand...
At your level, if you don't know what's going to happen to your drive (from the feel of the strike and swing) the instant you've hit it, then something is quite wrong!

Relatively heavy, steel shafted woods can smooth a ragged swing out quite well.

Perhaps a heavier (80gm+) stiffer shaft might help the Driver. Stiffer, medium weight one certainly makes a difference to my results. I have a 43gm Regular and a 75gm Stiff and it's the latter that works best with my low 90s swing speed and late release!
 
Homer - I know what you're saying, but I had a lesson, and he wanted me to work on getting the Driver more 'from the inside', which is basically asking me to re-model my swing. In all honesty, my iron play and fairways are ok, its just the Big Dog and extra length of the shaft thats the problem. I feel a complete swing 'rework' will do me more harm than good, as I really dont have the application for lost of 'practise' at my age.

Imurg: Thats interesting - you prefer Steel shafts too ? You dont use the 9* at all ?
 
I've come to a similar conclusion in that I'm sick of my Driver getting me into trouble. Much like you've described, it can go away and look brilliant, but then at the end it tails off to the right and becomes a wicked slice. I'm much more consistent with my 3 wood and can still hit it 220 yards or so, and on our course that is perfectly acceptable and doesn't mean you make par 4's unreachable in 2. I would love to be able to hit a driver and may well look at something at the end of the year, but for now it's 3 wood all the way (and if anyone sees me with my driver in hand, they have permission to shout at me!).
 
try an adams xtd 15 super hybrid. I didn't know or believe people when they said a certain club was "hot". after hitting this I know exactly what they mean.

ive left the driver out of the bag quite a bit in the last month as this club just goes. it has low spin so it gets great run too. its at worst 10-15 short of my sunday best drive. it just hits the fairway a hell of a lot more.
 
Macster said:
For too long now, the Driver has been my Achilles Heel, when its good, its long, but more often than not, it puts me in trouble, and I'm sick of seeing that Drive that starts straight, then turns right just as I start smiling.

Strangely, it never happens with my steel shafted R7 3 wood, a club I can hit a nice Draw with relatively reliably.

So, - who uses a 'Strong 3' ? Very tempted to source one, - something a bit stronger than a 15* 3, for that bit more length, without being as useless to me as a Driver.

Ive decided, if I am to stay down in Single Figures, I need to find fairways.......not yards.

Anyone ?
Click to expand...

My father in law's handicap is regularly between 7 and 10. His achilles heel is his putting but that is a different matter here.
Last time we played he only hit his driver twice and he didn't really suffer any distance by using his 3-wood.
He has recently invested in the Taylormade RBZ stage 2 driver and 3-wood. His 3-wood is typically straight as an arrow and is not too far short of his old driver, so he figures he doesn't need to take the risk of using a driver when the fairway is tight.
 
HomerJSimpson said:
A good PGA pro will see you right and get you finding the short stuff regularly
Click to expand...


Macster said:
Homer - I know what you're saying, but I had a lesson, and he wanted me to work on getting the Driver more 'from the inside', which is basically asking me to re-model my swing. In all honesty, my iron play and fairways are ok, its just the Big Dog and extra length of the shaft thats the problem. I feel a complete swing 'rework' will do me more harm than good, as I really dont have the application for lost of 'practise' at my age.
Click to expand...

So that was a waste of money then!

The Pro tells you how you need to change to achieve what you want. But you are not prepared to do what he suggests!

And what he suggests seems exactly what is needed. Your 'out-to-in' swing and open face is what is causing the slice.

Bob's headcover drill can help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsrovFJ3o9I

There's also an 'on-course desperation' method. Swing easier, and aim right! Not something to try with OB right, but I've seen this work a couple of times. Subconscious realises there's a potential and 'saves' the shot by adjusting/correcting. Similar thought process to the headcover drill imo, just a tad more 'dangerous'.
 
Stronger loft isn't necessarily the best option.

My Nike VR 3 wood is a pretty standard 15*

I wanted something which looked a bit "sharper" on the leading edge as I struggle to see it getting airborne from tight links lies and got very steep and choppy.

Tested the Nike Covert Pro version (adjustable loft) and the longest carry and longest total distance was with the loft up to 17* - blew my VR away by 22yds on the fly.
 
Foxholer said:
So that was a waste of money then!

The Pro tells you how you need to change to achieve what you want. But you are not prepared to do what he suggests!

And what he suggests seems exactly what is needed. Your 'out-to-in' swing and open face is what is causing the slice.

Bob's headcover drill can help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsrovFJ3o9I

There's also an 'on-course desperation' method. Swing easier, and aim right! Not something to try with OB right, but I've seen this work a couple of times. Subconscious realises there's a potential and 'saves' the shot by adjusting/correcting. Similar thought process to the headcover drill imo, just a tad more 'dangerous'.
Click to expand...


Its only the Driver where my fault lies, I dont know why, perhaps the overall length that I just cant get to grips with, as I certainly dont slice the 3 wood or irons.
Yes - I know there are lots of 'drills' to get me to change my swing, but as I said, that all takes time, and effort, and potentially months of swing re-building with my game going to pot, which I dont want.

My sons Steel shafted R7 3 Wood that I'm using at the moment gets me about 230yds, So I guess if I can find a good Club that will get me maybe 20yds more,..... reliably, I'll take it.
 
My driver has also been left out of the bag alot lately. I used it yesterday and it was horrendous, so much so thats its going back away for the forseeable future. Got a lesson on sat the 6th, hopefully that will sort it abit, but if not i don't think i'll bother in the future !
 
Macster said:
Its only the Driver where my fault lies, I dont know why, perhaps the overall length that I just cant get to grips with, as I certainly dont slice the 3 wood or irons.
Yes - I know there are lots of 'drills' to get me to change my swing, but as I said, that all takes time, and effort, and potentially months of swing re-building with my game going to pot, which I dont want.
Click to expand...

That headcover drill works pretty well and, if what you are saying about it 'only being the Driver' is true then won't affect your other swing.

I'd suggest you borrow a Driver - with a heavy, stiff shaft - and see whether that works any better. Also try gripping downan inch, or maybe a couple, on your current one. And try swinging 'easy' and see whether the slice turns into a gentle fade. None of these cost anything nor require swing changes.

From how far you say you are hitting your son's 3-wood, I'd strongly suggest that the Regular is too soft for you. High slices are what happens when I 'go after it' with my Regular shafted Driver. Straight or a yard or 2 of fade is what happens if I swing 'easy' - overall distance is normally better too!
 
Last edited:
I'm firmly in the camp of fixing the swing, rather than changing the equipment.

Look at it another way. If your putter begins to mis-behave, would you start putting with your 3 iron (Silly analogy, I know)?

The point I'm making is if you're technique is better with the driver, the club with the longest shaft and, a side from your putter, the least loft (I.E the most unforgiving club in the bag), it's going to have benefit throughout the bag. More solid swing = better, less severe misses.

Just my tuppence :thup:
 
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