New Shafts on Old Clubs?

SwingsitlikeHogan

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Played 18 holes on Friday with @williamalex at his track - I used my 30yr old Wilson Staff Tour Blade Fluid Feels - and I enjoyed playing them. Is it worth thinking about having new shafts put in them as I could feel the shafts were dead. I know nothing at all about golf club clubhead development over the last 30yrs so have no idea how a set of re-shafted Staffs would stand up in comparison with an equivalent modern club.
 
I am hoping to get my 1980's Tour Proven Original blades re shafted once i have been for a fitting. The guy who does my regripping and loft/lie adjustments said its a pretty simple process but they may need to amend the swing weight
 
Thanks guys - what I have absolutely no idea about is whether clubhead design has evolved to the extent that it makes these old clubs obsolescent. I know that I could just go ahead and get say the 7i reshafted and see how it feels. But if it is never going to be as good as a modern day club then not much point in me doing even that.

And yes - I do appreciate that the only person who'll ever know if it's any good for me would be me - as I could easily struggle to hit the most expensive or advanced golf club out today.

So you know where I am on this - I don't actually know what swing weight is...:( I'm a golf club technotard.
 
Blades are blades! Well, pretty much anyway! So if you feel you can hit the sweet spot sufficiently often, then there's nothing to prevent a refurb from working well!

Depending on how much you want to spend, Ebay could well be the best source for replacement shafts. Looks like the original shafts were Dynamic Gold ones, so still available in many styles!
 
Blades are blades! Well, pretty much anyway! So if you feel you can hit the sweet spot sufficiently often, then there's nothing to prevent a refurb from working well!

Depending on how much you want to spend, Ebay could well be the best source for replacement shafts. Looks like the original shafts were Dynamic Gold ones, so still available in many styles!

Lots of fake shafts on ebay, better to use a retailer and no real reason not to.
 
Lots of fake shafts on ebay, better to use a retailer and no real reason not to.

Any examples?

While there's certainly potential for 'fake-ery', I've not encountered any - and I've certainly bought enough!

Price is the real key - and used from Ebay is certainly cheaper than new.

An alternative is to find a friendly fitter who can do a swap when appropriate shafts come available. May/may not be easy to find though.
 
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Any examples?

While there's certainly potential for 'fake-ery', I've not encountered any - and I've certainly bought enough!

Price is the real key - and used from Ebay is certainly cheaper than new.

An alternative is to find a friendly fitter who can do a swap when appropriate shafts come available. May/may not be easy to find though.


No sorry not now. There was lots of fake PX shafts on there going back a few years... I cant remember who brought it to my attention, I am thinking it will have been a pro or club fitter. I guess I would be more comfortable buying pulled shafts than new on ebay.
 
Dynamic gold should be about 17 quid, but then you need grips etc to go with them.
Also, to do it properly they need spine alignment, and possibly sorting so they all play the same.

It would give you a lovely set of clubs though.

Regripping my x blades made a huge difference to the way they play.
 
Dynamic gold should be about 17 quid, but then you need grips etc to go with them.
Also, to do it properly they need spine alignment, and possibly sorting so they all play the same.

It would give you a lovely set of clubs though.

Regripping my x blades made a huge difference to the way they play.

I don't believe spine alignment is necessary! There are far too many other variables (weight and actual flex being the most important) with a 'set' of shafts for this to really be that important - imo! But if you have the time and equipment, then it may as well be done.

That's why many choose S400s over S300s! They may be a touch over weight spec, but as a 'set' they are much more likely to be similar weight! Same applies to S200 but under-spec/lighter.

Graphite shafts are now much more even than they used to be, so spine-alignment/puring isn't required there either (imo). And if it was beneficial, the alignment would be changed as soon as you changed the setting in an adjustable club!
 
Recently re-shafted an old set of 'Nicklaus Polarity TR1' irons with 'Aldila NV Comp 85-S' shafts, 5-PW shafts cost me 60 notes and the required grips cost 18 quid, I think in total including the shaft epoxy and grip tape the all up cost was less than 100 smackers, bare in mind I did it myself cos I can, I realise you may not have the facilities or ability to undertake the task...
 
I don't believe spine alignment is necessary! There are far too many other variables (weight and actual flex being the most important) with a 'set' of shafts for this to really be that important - imo! But if you have the time and equipment, then it may as well be done.

That's why many choose S400s over S300s! They may be a touch over weight spec, but as a 'set' they are much more likely to be similar weight! Same applies to S200 but under-spec/lighter.

Graphite shafts are now much more even than they used to be, so spine-alignment/puring isn't required there either (imo). And if it was beneficial, the alignment would be changed as soon as you changed the setting in an adjustable club!

You'd be suprised how much a shaft oscillates with not much force applied to it, even graphite. Could any of us tell if the shaft has or hasn't been spine aligned or Pured.? Probably not, but neither does adjustable drivers do much for the average player, once it's set, not many would change the setting after and yes it is a waste of time Puring on an adjustable club.
 
I have a set of these 2 - SW with dynamic gold.

I'm not of the view that the shafts are tired though - more that the heads are extremely unforgiving!

I've also got a few spare shaft sets with grips; but I don't think the effort would be worth it.

These are about as pure a MB as you will find and the heads are tiny. The 1.68" ball is massive in front of the 2 iron. I would even go as far as to say it overlaps the face, and that's before compression.

Having said that I played them longer than any other irons I've had.
 
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