Drivers: Heads or Shafts

Khamelion

Tour Winner
Joined
Jul 11, 2011
Messages
5,063
Location
Newcastle
Visit site
As everyone knows TM have got the SLDR out and [Sarcasm mode on] will have the SLDR 2 out fairly soon, but realistically how much difference is there between any driver made by:-

  • Titleist
  • Taylormade
  • Ping G20
  • Callaway
  • Cobra
  • Wilson
  • Mizuno
  • Nike
  • and any others I've missed

If all the above produce a 460 or 440cc driver head with all the technology that the rules allow, maximum allowed MOI, COR etc would you be able to hit any one them any further then the rest? Assuming of course that in each instance the shaft is the same and appropriate for your swing speed.

This leads to the question that if all manufacturers produce a driver head to the maximum permitted specifications, then surely the distance you get is in the shaft and the driver head itself is purely asthetics and personal taste.

So then what difference dose it make if Taylormade bring out a new driver every 6 months and themselves and Callaway claim their own new products can get you hitting the ball further, if indeed the technology is in the shaft then if shouldn't matter if you have a two year old Taylormade R11 or a 2 week old SLDR as essentially the head is the same and only the shaft will have changed.

Therefore when you need a new driver, do you really need to change the head, when all you need to do is change the shaft?
 
If you compare the sole of the SLDR with an RBZ, the only real difference id the Slider anyway. The basic shape is identical!

No need, imo, to keep getting the latest of any brand. Technology has stayed pretty much the same in the last couple of years imo.

Different heads work better with some shafts than others. It's a case of finding the right combination of both that also suit your swing. And unless your swing changes significantly, is there really any reason to change anyway? My FT3 still gets it out there as well as it used to (though I can't) and I was out yesterday with a guy who hit huge distance with the even older one (ERC).

So if you are thinking of changing your Drive (either head or shafy)r, I suggest you ask yourself why you need to first!
 
Last edited:
Irrespective of the manufacturer, most of the drivers these days are big headed and so the only real difference is in the stock shaft unless you go down the fitting route. Therein lies a problem in itself. I bought a set of TM woods, stock regular shafts. The driver was as whippy as you can get despite being an R. The 3 wood was stiffer than a scaffold pole and the 5 as limp as wet spaghetti. How can these vary so much off the shelf?

Having gone down a C/F route and trying a number of top makes and various shafts on a trackman and then out on a range, it just happened that I got the best distance and dispersion with Ping and their stock shaft. At the end of it, unless you try before you buy, it can be an expensive mistake
 
whilst you seem to be addressing this as an observation I would suggest that observing the practical realitities of those whose income depends on such decisions is a better judgement than sarcastic posts.



best observed in the Solheim Cup where, as we all know, it's tough to get a sponser to pay for the balls, let alone clubs.......a seemingly balanced environent in which many players were selecting the driver they thought was best for them; hell of a lot of R1's on view.

will the SLDR eclipse this choice, or is it more a case of keeping up with the X-Hot? Time will tell.

Have things moved on or is it just marketing.......you have one view, mine differs.
 
Irrespective of the manufacturer, most of the drivers these days are big headed and so the only real difference is in the stock shaft unless you go down the fitting route. Therein lies a problem in itself. I bought a set of TM woods, stock regular shafts. The driver was as whippy as you can get despite being an R. The 3 wood was stiffer than a scaffold pole and the 5 as limp as wet spaghetti. How can these vary so much off the shelf?

Having gone down a C/F route and trying a number of top makes and various shafts on a trackman and then out on a range, it just happened that I got the best distance and dispersion with Ping and their stock shaft. At the end of it, unless you try before you buy, it can be an expensive mistake

Has it actually done you any good though Homer?

Your handicap seems to have continued to slide in the wrong direction - rather than heading for the single figure mark that was hoped for.

My assertion is that while you may now have a better balanced set of gear, I believe you were pretty used to the varying flexes of the woods and unconsciously adjusted for them. got I've 3 different flex Drivers and I know my swing is slightly different with each one - on top of the usual inconsistency! Same happened with FWs and hybrids with different shaft attributes.

I certainly agree about the try before you buy though. And if you find 'the' one, then buy that one, not a 'same spec' one - something will be different!
 
My intention is to find the proper gapping to my 5 wood, and I would like a similar if not the same feel. The reason being is I just hammer my 5 wood, so it must be comfortable, give me that in a driver and I will play the same swing and just let the club do the work. So for me, the fitting will be really based on feel, if I get the feel, then they can diddle about to get the numbers regarding spin and launch.
 
I certainly agree about the try before you buy though. And if you find 'the' one, then buy that one, not a 'same spec' one - something will be different!


Is that really the case? would two of the same model actually be different to each other?

Doesn't say much for quality control by the makers.
 
My intention is to find the proper gapping to my 5 wood, and I would like a similar if not the same feel. The reason being is I just hammer my 5 wood, so it must be comfortable, give me that in a driver and I will play the same swing and just let the club do the work. So for me, the fitting will be really based on feel, if I get the feel, then they can diddle about to get the numbers regarding spin and launch.

To me, this seems the ideal approach - as lonf as the numbers ad flight aren't madly bad.

Confidence is the key, especially when the shot is a 'high tariff' one!
 
To me, this seems the ideal approach - as lonf as the numbers ad flight aren't madly bad.

Confidence is the key, especially when the shot is a 'high tariff' one!
Well the fitter should know the numbers and hopefully the flight will give us a clue. I am hoping he can measure the 5 wood so it becomes easier.
 
Shaft + Head = ~2.5k spin = Win

3k spin and more is not so win

I went from 7k spin to 2.4 and my driving has never been so good. I grew out of my old custom fit pretty fast as I improved.
 
Is that really the case? would two of the same model actually be different to each other?

Doesn't say much for quality control by the makers.

Every shaft will vary slightly from another, even the same make
Clubhead lofts have a manufacturing tolerance of +/- 1 degree
So your 10 degree driver could be 9 or 11....Fragger had a 10.5 i20 that was measured at 12.75.......
 
There's good club manufacturers and not so good manufacturers. Start with the premise of using a good club that suits your game/swing. Bearing in mind that due to the manufacturing constraints placed on the industry, the top end clubs won't boost that 250yd drive by enough to even make a 1 club difference in your 2nd shot into the green... However, will 5yrs of evolution achieve that 10-15yd improvement?

Changing year on year is a waste but once that change is equivalent to 10-15yds the answer is yes.
 
You can be c/f for any thing. I was, for the most unforgiving piece of s that can be built. I now have an off the rack cally which I have a love hate relationship with. It's long, very long, but on an off day, no. Defo no. Head or shaft? Both. I need a low spin low launch driver, and that includes head and shaft. Either/or won't cut it.
 
whilst you seem to be addressing this as an observation I would suggest that observing the practical realitities of those whose income depends on such decisions is a better judgement than sarcastic posts.

The '[Sarcasm mode on]' reference was a tongue in cheek observation and the frequency at which TM produce new drivers.

The rest of the post is in no way sarcastic, the rest of the post was simply a series of words linked in such a way that those that read it may or may not decide to discuss.
 
Is that really the case? would two of the same model actually be different to each other?

Doesn't say much for quality control by the makers.

Absolutely!

Tolerances for a start. And it may be that the head that is the most 'out-of-spec' actually feels best, so tolerances aren't as important as elsewhere. Same with shafts.

And anything that has a 'feel' element to it is often better to have a wide range than a narrow one,
 
Top