Draw / Fade Settings on Adjustable Drivers....

Closed but I'm not a fan of these adjustable drivers and would rather learn to move the ball with my swing instead

Rory McIlroy was on c2 draw setting even though he naturally draws the ball, its more about what gives the best results. I doubt anyone changes their setting based on the shots they need to play. The one that works best you usually stick with.
 
neither - you would adjust shot shape with weighting changes

changing the loft, or face angle, don't inherently create a change of shot shape

The answer to the question is still 'closed' though. Of course it's still easy to slice the ball with it.

In fact, it's still easy to slice the ball with your weight changes.
 
Rory McIlroy was on c2 draw setting even though he naturally draws the ball, its more about what gives the best results. I doubt anyone changes their setting based on the shots they need to play. The one that works best you usually stick with.

Spot on. It's not like people stand on each Tee altering their driver to suit the hole. Surely the idea is to set it up to suit you.
 
Does anyone know the difference between 1.5degrees closed and 1.5 degrees closed upright? My cleveland driver has these settings and I don't know what's the difference.
 
From what i've gleaned about club settings the club will be set up more closed.... but people then address the ball with the clubface just how they like it....so they open it a bit in their hands..... and from there they are screwed!! The face is now wide open with a ton of loft... it's a high slice baby!!..... BOOM!!!!

If you set the face closed KEEP it closed a smidge at address.
 
Closed but I'm not a fan of these adjustable drivers and would rather learn to move the ball with my swing instead

Couldnt agree more. What if you want to hit a big fade ? Do you get the tool out of your bag and change the setting ?

Now, it could just be luck on my part, trust me its not raw talent, but I learnt how to hit a draw with 2 You Tube videos and 50 practice balls. As a high handicapper with a natural slice I found it astonishingly easy. The other benefit is I learned how to shape my slice or a fade deliberately so I can hit fades and draws at will and very accurately. For me it's far more reliable and consistent to hit a draw or a fade than it is to try and hit it straight, which I still can't do by the way.

if an adjustable driver helps correct a fault you just can't fix then great, all for it but you are limiting your range of shot choices when you could and should be expanding them? If you are getting or using one purely to shape shots, to me that's a bad choice.
 
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Couldnt agree more. What if you want to hit a big fade ? Do you get the tool out of your bag and change the setting ?

That isn't allowed

Now, it could just be luck on my part, trust me its not raw talent, but I learnt how to hit a draw with 2 You Tube videos and 50 practice balls. As a high handicapper with a natural slice I found it astonishingly easy. The other benefit is I learned how to shape my slice or a fade deliberately so I can hit fades and draws at will and very accurately. For me it's far more reliable and consistent to hit a draw or a fade than it is to try and hit it straight, which I still can't do by the way.

All that with 50 balls?

if an adjustable driver helps correct a fault you just can't fix then great,

They aren't really there to fix faults, they are there to make fitting and stocking easier. Anyone who adjust a driver without the help of a fitter an the use of a flight monitor has no idea what they are actually doing to the launch characteristics of the ball.
 
A lot of Tour pros like the visual of an open face at address, but also like to draw the ball, so they have the face open but the weights (either detachable ones or Tour van added hidden ones) set in a draw bias.
 
A lot of Tour pros like the visual of an open face at address, but also like to draw the ball, so they have the face open but the weights (either detachable ones or Tour van added hidden ones) set in a draw bias.

That's because to hit a true draw you need the face open to the target but closed to the path. If the face is closed to the target and you still swing in to out you will be hitting some big hooks.
 
This point was the premise of the entire thread for me.

I figured this might be what you were getting at :D

I guess the point is, if when your club head reaches impact, the swing path is 1 degree right of the target line and the face angle is 0.25 degrees open to the swing path 1.25 degrees right of target) you are going to hit a fade. Closing the face 0.5 degrees would mean the face at impact was now 0.25 degrees closed to the swing path but still 0.75 degrees open to the target and you would hit a draw.

This is of course assuming everything else is the same
 
They aren't really there to fix faults, they are there to make fitting and stocking easier. Anyone who adjust a driver without the help of a fitter an the use of a flight monitor has no idea what they are actually doing to the launch characteristics of the ball.

Nonsense, they come with a tool and instructions. You change the setting and hit some practice balls. You see what the setting change does and if you don't like it you change it back or try another setting.

You absolutely DO NOT need to go to the expense of a fitter and a monitor solely to adjust a driver to the setting that works best for you.
 
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