Central Heating Issue

Reemul

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I wqs having low pressure followed by high pressure and a engineer came out and fixed this a few days a go but now we are getting our radiators nice and hot but the tap water only gets to warm nothing more than that. Both from the power shower where the pressure is fine or the taps.

Any thoughts before I do a call outg, the last one was a simple fix I could have done myself instead of paying £150
 
Do you have a Combi boiler or a traditional boiler that feeds a hot water tank.

If the former have you done the simple thing of checking what the hot water stat on the boiler is set to.

If the latter does it have a thermostat control on the tank and have you checked this, can you hear if the motorised valve to the tank is opening and closing, Have you got an airlock in the system, is the pipe feeding the tank in the loft blocked, is the water valve feeding the tank opening and closing? Is the hot pipe feeding the hot tank hot. Is the pipe one side of the motorised valve hot but not on the side feeding the tank.

I bet the last last fix was unfreezing a frozen condensate pipe.
 
Do you have a Combi boiler or a traditional boiler that feeds a hot water tank.

If the former have you done the simple thing of checking what the hot water stat on the boiler is set to.

If the latter does it have a thermostat control on the tank and have you checked this, can you hear if the motorised valve to the tank is opening and closing, Have you got an airlock in the system, is the pipe feeding the tank in the loft blocked, is the water valve feeding the tank opening and closing? Is the hot pipe feeding the hot tank hot. Is the pipe one side of the motorised valve hot but not on the side feeding the tank.

I bet the last last fix was unfreezing a frozen condensate pipe.

It is a combi boiler, the thermostat for the water is set to max and just looking when running the water it won't go above 75 degrees it jumps to 80 and then goes back to 75.
 
It is a combi boiler, the thermostat for the water is set to max and just looking when running the water it won't go above 75 degrees it jumps to 80 and then goes back to 75.

Run your hot water tap a lot slower than usual.

The water temp coming in is a lot lower. The slower you run your tap, the hotter your water gets.

If that doesnt work i would be looking at a blockage in your DHW Heat exchanger plate.

Let us know how you get on.
 
Run your hot water tap a lot slower than usual.

The water temp coming in is a lot lower. The slower you run your tap, the hotter your water gets.

If that doesnt work i would be looking at a blockage in your DHW Heat exchanger plate.

Let us know how you get on.

This is not the case with a lot of modern boilers. Ours automatically adjusts the rate of flow to give the correct temperature.
 
Our boiler started 'clanking ' the other day. Phoned the engineer and was advised to hit the pump with a hammer a couple of times and phone him back if it didn't work. To my surprise the boiler went back to normal saving me a call out fee.
 
Run your hot water tap a lot slower than usual.

The water temp coming in is a lot lower. The slower you run your tap, the hotter your water gets.

If that doesnt work i would be looking at a blockage in your DHW Heat exchanger plate.

Let us know how you get on.

Hi Stuart, Running the tap slower makes the water a lot warmer compared to faster. We also getting banging and clanking noises when the central heating comes on at 5am sometimes waking us up.
 
Hi Stuart, Running the tap slower makes the water a lot warmer compared to faster. We also getting banging and clanking noises when the central heating comes on at 5am sometimes waking us up.

What make model boiler do you have?

What is the pressure dial on?
 
It’s a Vaillant ecotec Pro the pressure has been at 1 bar I would say it’s now at 0.3 bar, so whatever he did the other day has not fixed the pressure issue
 
It is a combi boiler, the thermostat for the water is set to max and just looking when running the water it won't go above 75 degrees it jumps to 80 and then goes back to 75.

It’s a Vaillant ecotec Pro the pressure has been at 1 bar I would say it’s now at 0.3 bar, so whatever he did the other day has not fixed the pressure issue

0.3 is way too low

I run the hot water in my combi boiler at the manufacturer recommended temperature of 50 max and even that is too hot for hands when it is up to temperature.

I have a Vaillant Ecotec exclusive 832 and the water pressure when cold should be 1- 1.5 bar

If you do not a have a manual how to top up the water can be found in variuos online videos such as

On my boiler I have two taps and not the screw isolation valve and pressing the minus button shows the actual pressure rather just using the gauge

If the pressure keeps dropping you have a leak somewhere

I would also bleed all rads before topping up.
 
If you do not have the manual they can be found online . Just found mine and was checking in it - if the water pressure falls below 0.3 the boiler will turn off and you may see the error message F22 on the display which will disappear when the system is brought back up to the correct pressure.
 
It’s a Vaillant ecotec Pro the pressure has been at 1 bar I would say it’s now at 0.3 bar, so whatever he did the other day has not fixed the pressure issue

Sounds like a faulty expansion vessel. Im assuming the guy has recharged it but its not holding under heat.

Keep your pressure at 1.5bar
 
0.3 is way too low

I run the hot water in my combi boiler at the manufacturer recommended temperature of 50 max and even that is too hot for hands when it is up to temperature.

I have a Vaillant Ecotec exclusive 832 and the water pressure when cold should be 1- 1.5 bar

If you do not a have a manual how to top up the water can be found in variuos online videos such as

On my boiler I have two taps and not the screw isolation valve and pressing the minus button shows the actual pressure rather just using the gauge

If the pressure keeps dropping you have a leak somewhere

I would also bleed all rads before topping up.


OK I will break it down a bit more.

I had a boiler engineer come out on Thursday and charge me over £150 as the pressure on the Boiler would get real high and then drop to zero. he drained it, the set the pressure to to 1 bar. I can increase the pressure by twisting the valve but it was always dropping back but he had said it was fixed but i do not believe him but i am not the expert.

Since Thursday the pressure has gradually dropped until today it is almost in the red - Someone else told me it is the diaphragm who has split but I would not know. All I know is I am gradually losing pressure

On top of that the wife has said the shower and tap hot water is not getting more than mid warm and this is not correct - This is what I posted about - Running the water slower does make it hotter as suggested by Stuart but I am none the wiser

Also when the heating comes on the boiler / pipes make a loud knocking noise at night or early am as the heating comes on.

I have no problem getting another boiler engineer out but am wary after the last one seems to have screwed me out of £150 for something that still is not working and did not fix the other issues either.

Aprpeciate all the advice and the fact I am likely to have to call out an engineer and knowledge is helpful when speaking to them as well
 
OK I will break it down a bit more.

I had a boiler engineer come out on Thursday and charge me over £150 as the pressure on the Boiler would get real high and then drop to zero. he drained it, the set the pressure to to 1 bar. I can increase the pressure by twisting the valve but it was always dropping back but he had said it was fixed but i do not believe him but i am not the expert.

Since Thursday the pressure has gradually dropped until today it is almost in the red - Someone else told me it is the diaphragm who has split but I would not know. All I know is I am gradually losing pressure

On top of that the wife has said the shower and tap hot water is not getting more than mid warm and this is not correct - This is what I posted about - Running the water slower does make it hotter as suggested by Stuart but I am none the wiser

Also when the heating comes on the boiler / pipes make a loud knocking noise at night or early am as the heating comes on.

I have no problem getting another boiler engineer out but am wary after the last one seems to have screwed me out of £150 for something that still is not working and did not fix the other issues either.

Aprpeciate all the advice and the fact I am likely to have to call out an engineer and knowledge is helpful when speaking to them as well

Its 100% your pressure vessel is faulty.

In fairness to your boiler engineer, theres not much else he could've done except fit you a new vessel at an extra charge but you may not have needed that if it just needed to be recharged. So i doubt he has screwed you over.

I would call him and see explain the situation. If not give Vaillant a call, they usually do a one off callout fee and will fix your boiler.

If you need anymore advice give us a shout

*edit* Just seen the highlighted bit, that's probably the aqua sensor.
 
To be fair most jobs are something you can do yourself. The problem is you don’t have the knowledge to do it. That’s is after all what you pay for. Even then and from experience you can get the knowledge off the internet and go and screw it up anyway as you don’t have the experience or patience! ?
It’s crap but we have to cough up!
 
To be fair most jobs are something you can do yourself. The problem is you don’t have the knowledge to do it. That’s is after all what you pay for. Even then and from experience you can get the knowledge off the internet and go and screw it up anyway as you don’t have the experience or patience! ?
It’s crap but we have to cough up!
Isn't that why you pay someone to do it?
 
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