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Rooter

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Hi guys, any ideas what is going on? Have now tuned off my rads with the control panel, yet they are still coming on and getting hot! I turned them off as they were super heating the house, the mechanical thermostat is clicking correctly, so am assuming the control panel is faulty.. Help!!!
 
Hi guys, any ideas what is going on? Have now tuned off my rads with the control panel, yet they are still coming on and getting hot! I turned them off as they were super heating the house, the mechanical thermostat is clicking correctly, so am assuming the control panel is faulty.. Help!!!

It sounds like the heating zone valve is stuck in open position.

Do you have a combi boiler or a boiler and tank?
 
It sounds like the heating zone valve is stuck in open position.

Do you have a combi boiler or a boiler and tank?

Combi boiler - ideal icos
The control panel is a danfoss fp715-si

The control panel seems a bit tired, have to hold each button for a few seconds before they do anything... Also have a hot water tank upstairs too...
 
Combi boiler - ideal icos
The control panel is a danfoss fp715-si

The control panel seems a bit tired, have to hold each button for a few seconds before they do anything... Also have a hot water tank upstairs too...

It's a not a combi boiler, it's defo your zone valve. Can you have your water on only and heating on only when you switch your timer on ?
 
It's a not a combi boiler, it's defo your zone valve. Can you have your water on only and heating on only when you switch your timer on ?

Not sure, I have it set on 'on' normally which I think is always on with no times. House is occupied 24/7. Assumed rads were dictated by the thermostat in my hallway...
 
Not sure, I have it set on 'on' normally which I think is always on with no times. House is occupied 24/7. Assumed rads were dictated by the thermostat in my hallway...

Your stat in the hallway is wired into a 10way box that's linked to your zone valve which opens and closes valve when you turn heating on/off. It's defo not a diy job so get a registered engineer round to sort it.

If you need anymore advice pm me.
 
Your stat in the hallway is wired into a 10way box that's linked to your zone valve which opens and closes valve when you turn heating on/off. It's defo not a diy job so get a registered engineer round to sort it.

If you need anymore advice pm me.

Arse, was gonna get my screwdrivers out and have a pop! LOL where is this 10way box you mention out of interest? How much am i looking at getting stung do you reckon?
 
Arse, was gonna get my screwdrivers out and have a pop! LOL where is this 10way box you mention out of interest? How much am i looking at getting stung do you reckon?

just googled the zone valve and i know what and where it is! i can fix that, prepare for the "i've flooded my house, how do you soak up water" post!!

Thanks for the help stuart and DB, much appreciated!
 
Arse, was gonna get my screwdrivers out and have a pop! LOL where is this 10way box you mention out of interest? How much am i looking at getting stung do you reckon?

Usually in the cupboard where your tank is. Cost wise it depends what's actually wrong with it, if it's the motor it'll be cheaper to change rather than changing the whole valve.

Its hard to say exactly how much it'll cost but for a whole new valve supply and fitted I'd guess between 150-200.
 
just googled the zone valve and i know what and where it is! i can fix that, prepare for the "i've flooded my house, how do you soak up water" post!!

Thanks for the help stuart and DB, much appreciated!
Make sure you change the right one!!!
 
Make sure you change the right one!!!

Have already taken the actuator off to have a look (Danfoss HSA3), it was set on manual, has an auto setting too.. have switched it to auto.. if they get hot again without asking will remove the actuator and manually close the valve and leave off to hopefully just leave the hot water system open. I actually think i could change it if i need to, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
 
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